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Old 22nd August 2010, 06:21 PM   #121
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Apparently SDX (from the swedish forum) had made some measuring on those subs.
Xmax was 9.6mm linear and Pe was around 150w but he had tested them with 260w with no problem but he said it was "better to be on the safe side".

And about my "broken" sub he said it was probably a piece of glue between the voice coil and the cone. Maybe something i could fix?
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Old 22nd August 2010, 07:20 PM   #122
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Which driver, the 1060, 1060A or both?

If it's between the pole and VC, then you should be able to remove it once the dust cap is removed. If it's on the VC's outside, this means removing the surround which normally can't be done having to do a complete re-cone.

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Old 22nd August 2010, 07:23 PM   #123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GM View Post
Which driver, the 1060, 1060A or both?

If it's between the pole and VC, then you should be able to remove it once the dust cap is removed. If it's on the VC's outside, this means removing the surround which normally can't be done having to do a complete re-cone.

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On the 1060.
He said he was gonna get me a picture later tonight but i haven't seen any yet...
There is no dust-cap on these speakers. I don't know what you call it but it's a metal-cone that i bowl-shaped.
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Old 22nd August 2010, 08:06 PM   #124
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OK, guess we'll have to wait on him, though the few inexpensive 'metal' woofers I'm familiar with, the metal bowl is just a tinfoil thick insert glued to a paper driver that in a (sub)woofer app makes it near 100% cosmetic, i.e. it's the DC.

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Old 22nd August 2010, 08:12 PM   #125
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Ett par små basrör ska byggas. - Minhembio forum

I'll translate for you.
"The piece of glue is usually where the arrows are but there are ventilation holes at the sides of the cone so it should be able to remove."

Gonna take a look at it. If i understand right it's at the "bottom" of the cone but on the inside.
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Old 29th August 2010, 05:14 PM   #126
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Regarding the piece of glue i couldn't see anything through the almost microscopic holes. I will try to take something hard and stick it in under there and see if i feel anything uneven there.

I actually picked out a working RSW-1060 today. I have just been testing them at higher volumes than before knowing that the Hitachi will have problems to break them i pulled the volume up and the floor was vibrating quite badly and if i put the driver 20cm in front of my face i could hear some nice bass

Last edited by Rullknufs; 29th August 2010 at 05:39 PM.
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Old 30th August 2010, 03:06 PM   #127
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I've decided it will look better with particle board than MDF and i've found a 1200x2500x22mm one for around 40$. That's not that bad.
If we say that 2 is needed it will cost 80$ + the subs for around 80$ too
And i've got a pretty big piece left from my 12mm particle board, maybe it can be used to add some thickness to the baffle?
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Old 30th August 2010, 06:08 PM   #128
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I don't know much about this guy called SDX but he has many RSW-1060 and will be trying to beat 4x maelstromx 15" in sonotubes with his subs
And i've spoken to him a little more. He isn't writing much and you have to read it several times to understand.

He says 4? litres bassreflex and don't listen to you guys because it's a subwoofer and not a woofer. He said that after i said that you suggested some sort of TL.
And if i don't build an enclosure that can act as speaker stands i've found a way to DIY some cheap

And then i answered that i didn't want to play any infrabass or dbdragrace i just want to use them to music.
Then he said that 4? litres bassreflex tuned to ??hz and he said that he uses them for music and that the infrabass is just a little bonus.

In my eyes (or ears...) it sounds like he thinks you're idiots. I know he has built some quite cool thing with CSS SDX15 before and now he has his 14 (or was it 12?) RSW-1060's that are supposed to beat 4 maelstromX 15" in sonotubes...
I don't think that i can trust him more than i trust you really.
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Old 30th August 2010, 07:52 PM   #129
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This post doesn't warrant any response, so all I'll say is that with such a small cab requirement it wouldn't take much time/$$ to (dis)prove his design at least WRT your app, but his comments imply that its measured specs are way off from published, so no sense in me spending any more time on this without proper measurements of yours.

Good luck with it!

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Old 30th August 2010, 08:04 PM   #130
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So you suggest i should try building a pair of boxes that he is suggesting?
I don't really understand what you mean about measuring and what am i supposed to do/find out?
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