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#11 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
You can't go saying that you get 8dB more out because, when tuned to 50Hz, a sealed box will have loads more output at 10Hz, using less excursion. Chris PS - putting a second order LP filter on it set to 20Hz would get it to go low (keeping it sealed), but efficiency is through the floor.
__________________
"Throwing parts at a failure is like throwing sponges at a rainstorm." - Enzo My setup: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi...tang-band.html
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#12 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: London
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Quote:
Yes there is an excursion peak 1/2 octave above the port tuning, but the excursion here is the same as a closed box with a 3dB cutoff 2/3 octave higher than the reflex. |
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#13 |
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diyAudio Member
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I'm struggling to see where this 8dB more output has come from. Using a generic 8" driver, in a 19L sealed box, Q=0.707, f3=70Hz and vented 34L tuned to 37Hz gives an f3 of 40Hz. Using the max.SPL tab on winISD, the ported one, at tuning frequency, can put out over 20dB more. Below 25Hz, the sealed one has a higher maxSPL. Above tuning, the SPL increase is very slight (6dB, but the difference narrows quickly as the port becomes inactive). I fail to see where 8dB comes in to it (an average, perhaps?).
Anyway, the conclusion seems to be go for sealed here, as vented boxes need to be much bigger than that cabinet. Chris
__________________
"Throwing parts at a failure is like throwing sponges at a rainstorm." - Enzo My setup: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi...tang-band.html
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#14 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: London
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Quote:
Since each extra octave needs 4x the excursion, 8dB means 2/3 of an octave extension without being Xmax limited (if the example you chose had 6dB this would give 1/2 an octave). To pick an example, the 10" driver I use in our band's PA (Celestion BN10-300X) will handle 300W down to about 125Hz (-3dB point) in a closed box or 80Hz (-3dB point) in a reflex before Xmax is exceeded. You don't want to be using high-Q drivers in this case. You can build a reflex in a small box which works down to <40Hz, but you need a suitable driver (e.g. Ciare 12.00SW) and long ports with enough area to prevent port noise -- this can mean about 500mm long, but you can use drainpipe bends to get more length in. Of course there are limits, once the ports start occupying a significant part of the box volume you're onto a long slippery slope... For low tuning in a small box passive radiators have advantages, but you have to find them and then build them into the box. And of course if the driver has lots of Xmax and not so much power handling (which could be the case for this one), you won't run out of Xmax in a closed box anyway :-) Last edited by iand; 26th June 2010 at 05:13 PM. |
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#15 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
Fyi, Referring to whats been said in post#2 and 8 : See the picture.b
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#16 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Northern California
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CharlieLaub wrote:
Quote:
I've fine-tuned the plate amp with bass boost almost an octave below fb cutoff. The end result is very nice, tight bass in my room without over-excursion (at the levels I prefer). Thanks again to everyone here for all your help! -Chas p.s. I was originally advised to use it in a vented box, but the box I got turned out to be much smaller than was required for this; Consequently, an equalized sealed box was the answer. Last edited by clm811; 12th July 2010 at 10:08 AM. Reason: Added photos |
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#17 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
See below - the first is using a generic 8" subwoofer, with recommended cabinet volumes etc, here's the maximum SPL. At 130Hz and below, it's Xmax limited, at above that, it's power limited. The second one is with an Eminence Delta 12LF. Edit - nice sub above. Wish mine looked like that.
__________________
"Throwing parts at a failure is like throwing sponges at a rainstorm." - Enzo My setup: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi...tang-band.html
Last edited by chris661; 12th July 2010 at 10:27 AM. |
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#18 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Northern California
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I finally got around to testing anotherof the plate amps, and upon powering this one up, the 4A line fuse blew after a second or so. I touched the two "Jun Fu" 6800uf electrolytic caps and they felt unusually warm for such a short power-up.
To be sure it wasn't just a turn-on surge, I slowly powered it up through a variac. The fuse didn't blow this time, but the caps felt very hot ! Looks like I'll have to replace them anyway, after all. Anyone else have this experience with these caps? Recommendations? -Chas p.s. I tried to contact Steve at Apex Jr., regarding the Jun Fu caps(he sells these), but he's away on vacation for another week. |
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#19 |
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diyAudio Member
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Sounds faulty. Perhaps check the wiring, as it's a potential capacitor explosion if something's wrong...
__________________
"Throwing parts at a failure is like throwing sponges at a rainstorm." - Enzo My setup: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi...tang-band.html
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#20 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Northern California
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I removed the suspect caps and upon shaking them they rattle as if there is something loose inside. Other electrolytics on hand do not exhibit this.
Ill assume they have "dried-out" and that's why they are bad(?). I'm now shopping for some good quality 80V snap-ins... -Chas |
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