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#81 |
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Mark Kravchenko --- www.kravchenko-audio.com
diyAudio Member
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Horn Bias! ESL's RULE!
Yep hard to beat an ESL for radiation efficiency. But they are a whole other ball of wax. I have to build this one day. It would probably be my last speaker. That and this sub. Home Page of Arto Kolinummi, Audio Check out his fullrange ESL and stepup transformer. This is one guy I like. And he is quite open about helping you work on a copy of his design. THe transformer your on your own though. But if you have enough readoing time and some persistence it can be worked out. Mark Maybe Patrick should post some of his findings so I can stop hijacking this thread. Sorry Patrick. I just answer the questions as they come. I can't post about your horn cuz I don't know how you built it.
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Mark |
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#82 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
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Quote:
![]() ![]() Things I like about this sub: - it really does play below 20hz - for home theater, you can really notice a difference. There is definitely content below 20hz in movies - it's as 'tight' as any I've heard Things I don't like about this sub - it rattled like crazy. Even with crossbrace after crossbrace after crossbrace it rattled. There is clearly a much higher construction standard required for subs that play to 10hz. I'm guessing this is because it takes so much power and so much excursion to make bass below 20hz - it's preposterously large - the large size wouldn't be the end of the world, if there was an easy way to move it. For instance, if I had to build a giant sub again, I would likely use an array of two subs instead of a single unit. (IE, two subs with the same cubic area as this one, or less) - it's ugly In summary, I will likely build another infrasonic sub one of these days. But it will likely be smaller, and it will be easier to move. And it will definitely be built with far more sturdy construction. |
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#83 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Chamblee, Ga.
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Yeah, I did a dual 55-2421 ~10 Hz TH sim early on and it's all of 97.863 L, so takes four of them to get 115 dB/16 Hz/1 pi, but at this size, driver cost, it's the way to go IMO.
GM
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Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents. |
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#84 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
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Quote:
That said, enough VLF will rattle so many things it is often hard to chase down all the culprits in room. "Infrasonic" is an archaic term (IMHO) in the age of subs delivering SPL below 20 Hz that can be easily heard as well as felt. There is a #@&k load of hump de do whomping when you go below 25 Hz, drywall stud walls start making their own gravy. Art |
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#85 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Saskatchewan
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Agreed. My two 16Hz designs are built with 3/4" 11 ply void free shop birch. One's completely unbraced. The wood doesn't rattle, but everything else in the room sure does.
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#86 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
I've been contemplating what I'm going to do about it. I might just go buy 20 more studs and stack them all the way across that wall. If you can stand copious amounts of distortion from my cel phone camera, I've got a video up of my walls and bar area turning into butter. Shake rattle and roll. - YouTube |
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