First dual driver T-Line Enclosure!

killa12222 · 5th June 2010, 06:12 PM

Hi I'm new to the forum. This is my first t-line enclosure I built for my 8" subs

. Pics here

Rather large gap here

Hopefully silicone will fix it!

Still need to cut holes for the drivers and glue everything tomorrow...

djk · 6th June 2010, 06:32 AM

"Hopefully silicone will fix it!"

Have someone with a table saw fix it. Set the fence to the width of the narrowest board, then re-saw all the boards without moving the fence.

kipman725 · 6th June 2010, 01:03 PM

That gap looks kind of big, if you don't have a table saw you could just work out the lowest point on all your sides and then sand down to that level. I did this with my subs it works but won't give you the most attractive appearance.

killa12222 · 6th June 2010, 01:35 PM

I sanded down most of it and it fits better now. I'm not really concerned about the looks but its the sound that matters!

killa12222 · 6th June 2010, 01:38 PM

One question, are 45 degree angles necessary in a t-line?

GM · 6th June 2010, 05:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by killa12222

Rather large gap here

Hopefully silicone will fix it!

One question, are 45 degree angles necessary in a t-line?

FWIW, I mix sawdust with wood glue to form a putty to seal gaps, etc..

Only if you feel you need them to brace a corner.

GM

planet10 · 6th June 2010, 08:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by killa12222

One question, are 45 degree angles necessary in a t-line?

No. The increase in cross-section at the bends will act as low-pass filters, decreasing ripple.

A driver offset can be used to help kill the 1st undesirable harmonic.

dave

killa12222 · 7th June 2010, 06:21 AM

Thanks for the replies!! Another question, how far should i place the drivers apart? Drivers will be located on the opposite side of the port.

GM · 7th June 2010, 02:45 PM

They should ideally be butted together, though if using an offset driver positioning, then measure down its inside length from the closed end and mark it off at 0.349x its measured axial length, then locate the drivers equidistant on either side of this mark and space them a bit to allow a ~0.75" square 'rod' brace be glued to the back of the baffle between the drivers. If this pushes them up into/over the first fold, then mount them with the first driver at the closed end next to the terminus.

GM

killa12222 · 7th June 2010, 02:53 PM

I mounted the drivers parallel in the middle and sealed everything together. One driver is flipped around because i was told that this reduces cabinet vibration and lowers distortion. The end result is AWESOME BASS!!! Nice clean and low.. Correction, these are actually 6" drivers (measured from screw holes across). Hits hard down to 30 hertz but has a noticible dip at 40-50 hertz though. Are there any fixes for this other than EQ-ing?

5th June 2010, 06:12 PM	#1
killa12222 diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2010	First dual driver T-Line Enclosure! Hi I'm new to the forum. This is my first t-line enclosure I built for my 8" subs. Pics here Rather large gap here Hopefully silicone will fix it! Still need to cut holes for the drivers and glue everything tomorrow...

6th June 2010, 06:32 AM	#2
djk diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: USA	"Hopefully silicone will fix it!" Have someone with a table saw fix it. Set the fence to the width of the narrowest board, then re-saw all the boards without moving the fence. __________________ Candidates for the Darwin Award should not read this author.

7th June 2010, 02:45 PM	#9
GM diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Chamblee, Ga.	They should ideally be butted together, though if using an offset driver positioning, then measure down its inside length from the closed end and mark it off at 0.349x its measured axial length, then locate the drivers equidistant on either side of this mark and space them a bit to allow a ~0.75" square 'rod' brace be glued to the back of the baffle between the drivers. If this pushes them up into/over the first fold, then mount them with the first driver at the closed end next to the terminus. GM __________________ Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents.

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6th June 2010, 01:03 PM	#3
kipman725 diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: London/N.lincs	That gap looks kind of big, if you don't have a table saw you could just work out the lowest point on all your sides and then sand down to that level. I did this with my subs it works but won't give you the most attractive appearance.

6th June 2010, 01:35 PM	#4
killa12222 diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2010	I sanded down most of it and it fits better now. I'm not really concerned about the looks but its the sound that matters!

6th June 2010, 01:38 PM	#5
killa12222 diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2010	One question, are 45 degree angles necessary in a t-line?

7th June 2010, 06:21 AM	#8
killa12222 diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2010	Thanks for the replies!! Another question, how far should i place the drivers apart? Drivers will be located on the opposite side of the port.

7th June 2010, 02:53 PM	#10
killa12222 diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2010	I mounted the drivers parallel in the middle and sealed everything together. One driver is flipped around because i was told that this reduces cabinet vibration and lowers distortion. The end result is AWESOME BASS!!! Nice clean and low.. Correction, these are actually 6" drivers (measured from screw holes across). Hits hard down to 30 hertz but has a noticible dip at 40-50 hertz though. Are there any fixes for this other than EQ-ing?

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