mcm 8" dual tapped horn plan

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unfortunately with the cabin gain of a car, tapped horns don't really do all that well... At least if what you are interested in, is having the sub response smoothly roll off, at the same rate the cabin gain is adding in.

However, if you have a typical sedan and can port the subs through the rear deck, and can eq your bass -- I have thought for you.

Reed Exodus Anarchy 25hz Tapped Horn - AVS Forum.

Build single driver cabinets at 8.25" interior dimension for your mcm's. Lose the last fold (20 1/8" by 23 3/16" cabinet size), and from where the driver is, continue the flair straight on up and through your rear deck. At 20" wide, you should be able to get a pair of them side by side, so you'd end up with about 40" wide, by however tall to your deck by 9.25 deep. That would prevent you from taking up your entire trunk space, and give you what I think you are asking for, and with some nice grill on your deck, and carpet to hide the cabinets in the trunk-- stealth.

I ran the hornresp sim for that, and while not perfect, it works.
 

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I think my suggestion will work.
Measure the wheelwell to wheelwell dimension (needs to be 40" min)
Measure the floor to deck lid (needs to be 23" min)

If you look at the picture I quickly clipped together, it'll make sense. If you take the dimension sheet lilmike has, and change all of the 7.25" dimensions to 8.25", then I think that will also help make some sense.
 
jbell's "Anarchy" suggestion is good.

I tend to disagree with his suggestion that tapped horns don't go well with cabin gain. It's no harder to design a tapped horn to have a response suitable for car use than it is to design a bass reflex for the same use. No EQ required, either. (For example, the later incarnations of Mark K's Unhorn.)
I aim for "eva's response": In half space (2 pi?), flat down to 80 Hz, -3dB at 60 Hz, 12 db/octave slope down to 30 Hz, then 24 dB/octave below 30 Hz with optional 30 Hz high-pass. It requires minimum additional EQ in the couple of cars I have tried it in - a small sedan and a small SUV. If I get time I'll post some designs in a new thread.
 
jbell's "Anarchy" suggestion is good.

I tend to disagree with his suggestion that tapped horns don't go well with cabin gain. It's no harder to design a tapped horn to have a response suitable for car use than it is to design a bass reflex for the same use. No EQ required, either. (For example, the later incarnations of Mark K's Unhorn.)
I aim for "eva's response": In half space (2 pi?), flat down to 80 Hz, -3dB at 60 Hz, 12 db/octave slope down to 30 Hz, then 24 dB/octave below 30 Hz with optional 30 Hz high-pass. It requires minimum additional EQ in the couple of cars I have tried it in - a small sedan and a small SUV. If I get time I'll post some designs in a new thread.

Agree I found that a 33hz tuned EBS with 2226 worked well people often say the same of small rooms'oh that wont work the wavelengths wont fit!' or horns wont work in a car. I think one or two people model a TH in 0.5pi put it in a car and maybe slightly underwhelmed depending on how leaky the car is.
 
Wouldn't a front loaded horn with its more gradual roll off work better in a car? I modeled the Anarchy as both a tapped horn and front loaded as I have one of these I would eventually like to put in my car.

While I could get a little roll off in a tapped horn, the front loaded design seemed to match cabin gain in a car much better. I am no expert with hornresp or horn sub design though.
 
jbell's "Anarchy" suggestion is good.

I tend to disagree with his suggestion that tapped horns don't go well with cabin gain. It's no harder to design a tapped horn to have a response suitable for car use than it is to design a bass reflex for the same use. No EQ required, either. (For example, the later incarnations of Mark K's Unhorn.)
I aim for "eva's response": In half space (2 pi?), flat down to 80 Hz, -3dB at 60 Hz, 12 db/octave slope down to 30 Hz, then 24 dB/octave below 30 Hz with optional 30 Hz high-pass. It requires minimum additional EQ in the couple of cars I have tried it in - a small sedan and a small SUV. If I get time I'll post some designs in a new thread.

Don& Fred

yes, I agree that a tapped horn is a viable option in a car, however... Once you get to an acceptable response curve, you are usually in the gray area of is it a tapped horn or not? You will end up with some kind of hybrid design with a front chamber and a shorter than "normal" horn path. You are also designing out one of the primary benefits of a tapped horn -- "flat to xxx design frequency."

For the OP, if he likes bass heavy music... heavy in the 30-40hz range, this will do it in spades. I personally think it will sound a little weird without some 60-80hz add, and 30-40hz minus eq, but then... that's me.
 
Don't mean to hi-jack this thread,,,I have 6 mcm 8" (55-1195) and am thinking about building a sub wuffer enclosure. The cost was free but I'm not sure if the effort would warrent (they are cheap speakers) If your response is positive I'll start a new thread for discussion.
Thank you kindly
CJQ
 
Don't mean to hi-jack this thread,,,I have 6 mcm 8" (55-1195) and am thinking about building a sub wuffer enclosure. The cost was free but I'm not sure if the effort would warrent (they are cheap speakers) If your response is positive I'll start a new thread for discussion.
Thank you kindly
CJQ

With only 3.8mm of xmax, I'd be tempted to use them for their intended purpose. A 1 cu.ft. enclosure with a 1.5" diameter port 2" long. Put in a goldwood 1116 piezo or some other discount tweeter than already has it's crossover capacitor on it, and keep them under 30 watts out in the garage. (this speaker really wants to live in a much bigger box, but it's just not worth it... Although a 1.5cu.ft with 1.5" port 1.5" long would have a little better bass.)

The 55-2421 is much better suited for a sub.
 
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