Let's check back in, shall we. 
OK, here are four pics that should enable someone to build one of these with minimum fuss. If you prefer inches anyway. You will have to deal in 64th though. This is about as simple as I can get it without building one. As you can see this is the cornered version.
All you need to do is get the two sides cut to the fill exterior dimensions, and then copy the patterns from these pics onto it. They will give you all corner locations, and piece lengths. Remember all parts are 1' 11" 1/2 wide, except the two sides, and the braces (note the mouth brace fin is 1' 11" 1/2w as well)
I have indicated which pieces should be cut long to allow for an angle cut. On the others a good amount of PL should do. I don't trust things to work out correctly with real wood, so I didn't even try to put the smaller angles on there. Just match the corners up to the drawings, and you will be good to go.
I left the dowel out of the drawings. You can add it back in if you want. Just center it with the ole MK1Eyeball. Anything between 1" 1/4 to 2" thick will do.
Also for the most part the braces are not given definite measurements here. The mouth brace and fin is the only exception. You have to aim the fin properly, so you nee to copy my angles at the front. The far end is up to you. Use whatever scrap you have left over, and use your full size drawing to come up with your own best fitment options. The only other thing to watch is the area around the drivers face. It needs to be as open as possible. You want to keep the brace far enough away from the driver to prevent collisions.
OK, here are four pics that should enable someone to build one of these with minimum fuss. If you prefer inches anyway. You will have to deal in 64th though.
This is about as simple as I can get it without building one. As you can see this is the cornered version.All you need to do is get the two sides cut to the fill exterior dimensions, and then copy the patterns from these pics onto it. They will give you all corner locations, and piece lengths. Remember all parts are 1' 11" 1/2 wide, except the two sides, and the braces (note the mouth brace fin is 1' 11" 1/2w as well)
I have indicated which pieces should be cut long to allow for an angle cut. On the others a good amount of PL should do. I don't trust things to work out correctly with real wood, so I didn't even try to put the smaller angles on there. Just match the corners up to the drawings, and you will be good to go.
I left the dowel out of the drawings. You can add it back in if you want. Just center it with the ole MK1Eyeball. Anything between 1" 1/4 to 2" thick will do.
Also for the most part the braces are not given definite measurements here. The mouth brace and fin is the only exception. You have to aim the fin properly, so you nee to copy my angles at the front. The far end is up to you. Use whatever scrap you have left over, and use your full size drawing to come up with your own best fitment options. The only other thing to watch is the area around the drivers face. It needs to be as open as possible. You want to keep the brace far enough away from the driver to prevent collisions.
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My original work was done in MM, but it is easy to change out of the metric system in Sketch-Up, if metrics give you fits.
Look up top and click Window, and then Model Info. Click on Units on the left-hand side. Now change Decimal to Architectural; and the Precision box to 1/64". Now you will get feet, inches, and 1/64th.
You can play with it, and get only inches instead of feet, or meter, centimeters whatever.
Look up top and click Window, and then Model Info. Click on Units on the left-hand side. Now change Decimal to Architectural; and the Precision box to 1/64". Now you will get feet, inches, and 1/64th.
You can play with it, and get only inches instead of feet, or meter, centimeters whatever.
kornnylike, if you PM me an email I can send you some pics of in-progress builds of a few folder horns to help your builder wrap his head around how this looks in real life.
I remember how big a pain it is to wrap your head around your first horn. A during picture is worth a thousand words sometimes.
Remember not to skimp on the PL adhesive when building. Too much is better than not enough. A leak can kill output, and drivers.
I remember how big a pain it is to wrap your head around your first horn. A during picture is worth a thousand words sometimes.
Remember not to skimp on the PL adhesive when building. Too much is better than not enough. A leak can kill output, and drivers.
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Oh yeah, and there is no need to even try go go with the 64th. 16th will be fine. 8th if you don't mind a little wobble.
I only used 64ths, as I was converting from MM. This gets the numbers a close as possible, and will allow you to make you own judgment call on exactly how the line should fall.
I'm used to doing things for myself, and I have my own set patterns. I didn't think about someone else seeing it, and thinking I'm crazy for trying to spec that tight a tolerance from wood.
Maybe that will do it. Time for bed.
I only used 64ths, as I was converting from MM. This gets the numbers a close as possible, and will allow you to make you own judgment call on exactly how the line should fall.
I'm used to doing things for myself, and I have my own set patterns. I didn't think about someone else seeing it, and thinking I'm crazy for trying to spec that tight a tolerance from wood.
Maybe that will do it. Time for bed.
looking forward to seeing these!
It sims at 98dB 1W/1m below 60Hz, and 103dB 1W/1m above. Max SPL in the low to mid 130s dB with a single cab, through 30Hz.
I haven't tried any other drivers in it. The final HR inputs are in post 53. Just try some out.
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