Critique this 12" TH sub...

[Brian Steele]

Critique this suggested TH please.

The 10" driver's Xmax is about 12 mm, and it can handle up to 300W. Cost: $120. The sim suggests 120+dB

Design requirements: "small" sub for 80 Hz and below that can be used for a small sports bar that will double as a HT room from time to time :-). Likely 2 or 4 may be used.

Construction: Will be implemented using a design similar to the POC #1 on my site - see The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - Projects : A "Proof of Concept" tapped pipe** - introduction

Any suggested alternatives that are a better fit for cost/performance welcomed.

[littlemike]

Why the exponential flare?

You might consider lengthening L34 to get the driver a little further back into the mouth, which should also help that dip in the response.

[Brian Steele]

Originally Posted by littlemike

Why the exponential flare?

That's straight from HornResp's TH wizard :-)

Originally Posted by littlemike

You might consider lengthening L34 to get the driver a little further back into the mouth, which should also help that dip in the response.

Are you referring to the dip around 90 Hz, or the dip in the 30 Hz to 80 Hz passband?

[MaVo]

Looks fine. Obsessing over small details isnt necessary, as the driver and the sim and the room all introduce errors. Your best bet is to build one and see if reality comes close to the sims (it usually does, within around +-3db).

[littlemike]

Originally Posted by Brian Steele

That's straight from HornResp's TH wizard :-)

Are you referring to the dip around 90 Hz, or the dip in the 30 Hz to 80 Hz passband?

Change to Con before you run the wizard, unless your horn folding kung fu is especially strong.

The dip at 90 is the one I was referring to. If you can flatten it out a bit by tucking the driver a touch further back in the mouth, that might be a good idea.

Otherwise - as MaVo said - build it and see. I've had results match the predictions within a dB or two, and I know my measuring gear/ability is no better than that.

[Brian Steele]

Originally Posted by littlemike

Change to Con before you run the wizard, unless your horn folding kung fu is especially strong.

I might need a little bit of hand-holding here, as I'm not seeing this option anywhere. I'm using HornResp v26.00, if that helps.

[littlemike]

Originally Posted by Brian Steele

I might need a little bit of hand-holding here, as I'm not seeing this option anywhere. I'm using HornResp v26.00, if that helps.

Double click the Exp to change from Exp to Con (Exponential Flare to Conical Flare).



Also - upgrade to 26.30 (or whatever is current now...) when you get the chance.

[Brian Steele]

Originally Posted by littlemike

Double click the Exp to change from Exp to Con (Exponential Flare to Conical Flare).

Sigh - didn't realise it would be so obvious, LOL. Thanks. It does change the response a bit, so it's back to the drawing board. Looks like this driver is 2 ohms, so I may have to go with another driver, unless I use them in pairs.

[bjorno]

Originally Posted by Brian Steele

Sigh..Looks like this driver is 2 ohms, so I may have to go with another driver, unless I use them in pairs..

Hi Brian,

FYI, A little late but I believe there are small improvements to consider:

b

[David McBean]

Originally Posted by littlemike

Change to Con before you run the wizard.

Hi littlemike,

Just to clarify - as from Version 26.00 the flare can also be changed while the Loudspeaker Wizard is being used, by double-clicking on the label above the appropriate length slider control.

Kind regards,

David