The DubHorn:Wi's TC 5100NEO loaded 20hz horn.

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Sounds good!

I do have a bunch of high and medium density acoustic foam for treating rooms.

To maximise clearance between the wood and vent, the space directly behind the vent could be left free I could cut a circle out of a block of foam, leaving a ring of foam around the vent?

Sorry I keep bringing up the kappa 15s, I've been regretting their purchase for so long! They seem to be neither fish nor fowl, being optimal for neither tops due to their weight and size - I prefer 10" and 12" mid basses - nor for subs due to xmax etc...
I can't find anyone who wants to buy them and hate to throw drivers away or have them gather dust...

Regards, Ben
 
I had actually ended up deciding on using the Epic 10". Simulations showed that using 6 smaller horns at 500w each hit 140 at 20hz.

The 5100Neo ended up in a refrigerator sized enclosure, and stacking reflex boxes proved the better option as it had to be mobile. The LMS-R12 faced the same issue.

6 smaller boxes that soak up more power and are easier to move than a large one seemed the way to go.

Then I ran out of money to continue pursuing the project, so it is on the back burner right now.

Has this project moved to the front burner yet?
 
I think oliver has the right idea. kappa 15a's work best as kick bin above subs, and below tops in a 4way.

It's either that or put them under some nasty compression driver that makes ears bleed and make 15+1's and sell them off to the low end dj crowd...

I resemble that remark as well. But my 'low end DJ' speakers are 15" *3 way*. When lugging 4 FLH subs, what's another pair of 8 cubic foot boxes? They do integrate better than smaller tops - I keep coming back to them for high school gyms because they work.

Another good use for that type of 15 is as a bass guitar speaker - that's pretty much what they were made for. Not everyone has (or wants) an 800 watt head. Some musicians prefer tubes anyway, and that will be inside safe power handling.

For FLH kick bins, I've found 12's to be more optimally loaded than 15's. Makes the horn easier to fold, too.
 
I resemble that remark as well. But my 'low end DJ' speakers are 15" *3 way*..

aw man... I don't want to have to apologize to a bunch of people who 'think' they resemble low end DJ.... The fact that you guys know how to model speakers, design, build, and then set them up properly shows you are not 'low end...' by any stretch.

I have much respect for you and ben... no offense intended.

The technical pro, pyle pro, or some such screaming for mercy with no subs in sight is kinda what I associate with 'low end dj'

You guys don't qualify...
 
No offence taken!

Very kind of you to say that, JBell, but I really am only a dj on the side - weddings and quite small corporate events, private parties.
Mostly I run systems for others - professional bands and djs.

The fact that I build and rebuild the sound and lighting equipment myself makes me a little crazier than the guys who save up, buy a regular system and stick with it, but it is fun - I just got my first router to do the roundovers and I love it!

Regards, Ben
 
Making peoples ears bleed for no reason, with a system that sounds like cr@p, driving amps and/or speakers way beyond what they should -- that is what I associate with low end dj. The 'low end' being the common sense of the operator behind the controls.

My cousin just got married this year, and just such a dj showed up. It was awful.

Running 75db to the back of the room with a small pair of tops (8+1's) purchased or home built, and a small sub like a TH mini clone, or something like that... that fits in the back seat of a compact car -- is HIGH END dj...

A dj is not measured in db's... but in common sense, and doing what the client wants, and being responsible.

The ability to also put on a club level show that is of the highest quality -- now that's even higher end... Even though I haven't personally heard your system -- that's where I am guessing you are on the 'dj scale...'
 
Oliver's idea

Now my 6 pack is nearly done.
I have a bunch of wood left over - the shop screwed up the optimisation of the cuts a little!
The Lascala design looks very nice. Aside from the format, is there any benefit over a straight horn (e.g. one that is similar format to the Dubhorn components I am building?
If a straight horn is no worse (aside from lost space) it would be very neat to have the same uniform height and width, albeit with a less deep box - maybe half the depth, at a guess?

Regards, Ben
 
The cousin's wedding

Me too! A friend asked me to supply lighting for her wedding. She told me the sound gear was being supplied by a friend who was a pro. I put a lot of thought into it, preprogrammed the systems, set up automated time delayed fogging, tested it all in-situ.

And then a friend of the bride turns up with the kind of home stereo most of us would send to the landfill... and a single "hifi" cd player. My wife was there too. She looked at me and said "Don't mention it to the bride, it's too late to change and it's not your problem". I did cringe inwardly, and once again vowed to carry a decent little system in the car for such events.

Weddings are hard work if you want to do them well. I really do my best and it is very satisfying when the couple, their friends and family have a great night.

Regard, Ben
 
- I just got my first router to do the roundovers and I love it!

Regards, Ben

My 2c on the roundovers... Use a 45degree bit instead on plywood.

When you do a roundover, there are places in the round where the ply is paper thin. That's where problems happen. When you do a 45, all of the plys stay full thickness where it counts. I've had roundovers split and chip, never happens on 45's.
 
When you do a roundover, there are places in the round where the ply is paper thin.

A good reason to stay away from that cheap Chinese plywood. And Bondo is your best friend. Roundover, Bondo, sand, more Bondo, sand again, Duratex. That will keep most plywood from tearing up - even when manhandling 200 pound horns in and out of a pickup by yourself. And roundovers do make working with those nice stackable cabinet corners easier since they are designed for it.
 
Post #135

Hi Ben,

Basically, I would stick with something like the LaScala layout, as it is a proven design, and such a nice form factor.

But here is just some food for thought:

According to Hornresp the main difference between the LaScala, and a similar folded FLH build around the Kappa 15A is the volume of the rear chamber. To optimize the response for the Kappa 15A this volume has to be reduced quite a bit (i.e.: from 52L to 12L). A larger rear chamber volume as in the LaScala can be more easily reduced to arrive at an optimum.

A straight horn might perform better than a folded horn, but either way you are looking at a horn length of 85cm (100cm would be even better), and you have to add the depth of the throat chamber and rear chamber to that.

Mouth size is about 56.5cm x 56.5cm (LaScala: ~3194cm^2) (63.2cm x 63.2cm for 4000cm^2 would be even better).

So, maybe you can sketch the layout/size of your final system, see what would be your preferred size for a kick bin, and develop something from there.

Regards,
 

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