My Tangband W8-1363SB...in a Crappy Box. - diyAudio
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Old 25th March 2010, 10:50 PM   #1
form109 is offline form109  United States
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Default My Tangband W8-1363SB...in a Crappy Box.

Well Maybe not Crappy....but Yeah...Particle Board Box....no good.

Besides....the Port Chuffs at High Volumes probably because the Port is Non Flared and too Short/Small for the TB's Excursion Potential....this does move a Massive amount of Air!

Any Recomendations for Box's?
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Old 26th March 2010, 07:05 AM   #2
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I want that driver!

Not available in the UK, however, and shipping costs are too high for a teenager.

I'd play on winISD for boxes. I expect they get used in small sealed boxes for cars quite often.
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Old 27th March 2010, 09:41 PM   #3
form109 is offline form109  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris661 View Post
I want that driver!

Not available in the UK, however, and shipping costs are too high for a teenager.

I'd play on winISD for boxes. I expect they get used in small sealed boxes for cars quite often.
Prehaps you can get the Driver from somebody on the Forum?


also where do you get WinISD from?
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Old 28th March 2010, 03:40 AM   #4
heyday is offline heyday  United States
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You can download WinISD here.

The alpha and beta versions both incorporate features not available in the other, so you may wish to check out both versions...
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Old 28th March 2010, 04:29 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by form109 View Post
Well Maybe not Crappy....but Yeah...Particle Board Box....no good.

Besides....the Port Chuffs at High Volumes probably because the Port is Non Flared and too Short/Small for the TB's Excursion Potential....this does move a Massive amount of Air!

Any Recomendations for Box's?
All the TB sub drivers(including the W8-1363SB) actually really like small boxes - the problem with that is in order to get any deep LF extension you will have to go ported or with passive radiators.

To get a large enough port (cross sectional area) to avoid high port velocity and chuffing issues the port or ports have to be very long in relation to the size of the enclosure.

There are two ways to get around this

First consider the use of a external slot port that sort of wraps around the box and then exits at the front top or bottom as per the quick cross section sketch below
Sub slot port.jpg

Secondly consider using passive radiators, this is a proven method that provides all the benefits of a port without any of the negatives, ie chuffing - unmanageably long ports

Last edited by Cokewithlime; 28th March 2010 at 04:32 AM.
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Old 29th March 2010, 05:08 AM   #6
form109 is offline form109  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cokewithlime View Post
All the TB sub drivers(including the W8-1363SB) actually really like small boxes - the problem with that is in order to get any deep LF extension you will have to go ported or with passive radiators.

To get a large enough port (cross sectional area) to avoid high port velocity and chuffing issues the port or ports have to be very long in relation to the size of the enclosure.

There are two ways to get around this

First consider the use of a external slot port that sort of wraps around the box and then exits at the front top or bottom as per the quick cross section sketch below
Attachment 164381

Secondly consider using passive radiators, this is a proven method that provides all the benefits of a port without any of the negatives, ie chuffing - unmanageably long ports
Would the Dayton 8" PR Do Fine Here?

isnt the Radiator supposed to have more Excursion than the Active Woofer?

the Dayton Radiator States 9 MM but the TB is 12 MM...can i use a Larger Radiator with the Smaller Woofer....like the 10 or 12 PR?
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Old 29th March 2010, 06:28 AM   #7
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Yes, that would work fine. The alternative is to use two of the 8" PRs, so you can get a nice symmetrical look.
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Old 29th March 2010, 06:44 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by form109 View Post
Would the Dayton 8" PR Do Fine Here?

isnt the Radiator supposed to have more Excursion than the Active Woofer?

the Dayton Radiator States 9 MM but the TB is 12 MM...can i use a Larger Radiator with the Smaller Woofer....like the 10 or 12 PR?
There are a couple of general guidelines when using PRs - you generally will need the PR to have approximately 2x the surface area of the driver you are using and also approximately 1.5 to 2x the xmax of the driver you are using.

So with the TB that you are using, none of the Dayton PRs are a really good match.

Probably the best match and also a really good price, since it is on sale right now is the 15" Exodus PR ($55) from DIYCable. btw - you will also need the mass kit($12)

If you are trying to keep the box size down to bare minimum you could use w of these SEAS PRs
or alternately you could go with a 2 of the CCS 10" PRs which have the added benefit of being able to adjust and fine tune the PRs mass from the outside of your enclosure at any time.

Last edited by Cokewithlime; 29th March 2010 at 07:06 PM.
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Old 30th March 2010, 02:18 AM   #9
form109 is offline form109  United States
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Originally Posted by Cokewithlime View Post
There are a couple of general guidelines when using PRs - you generally will need the PR to have approximately 2x the surface area of the driver you are using and also approximately 1.5 to 2x the xmax of the driver you are using.

So with the TB that you are using, none of the Dayton PRs are a really good match.

Probably the best match and also a really good price, since it is on sale right now is the 15" Exodus PR ($55) from DIYCable. btw - you will also need the mass kit($12)

If you are trying to keep the box size down to bare minimum you could use w of these SEAS PRs
or alternately you could go with a 2 of the CCS 10" PRs which have the added benefit of being able to adjust and fine tune the PRs mass from the outside of your enclosure at any time.
a 15" PR Seems Bigggg.

What Result do you Get by using a PR The same Size as the Active Driver?

Also do you use the PR By itself or in Combination with a Port?
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Old 30th March 2010, 04:57 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by form109 View Post
What Result do you Get by using a PR The same Size as the Active Driver?
PRs have their own issues to deal with, one of these results in potentially exceeding PR xmax at or below the tuning frequency of the design
In the following chart (based upon a design I already had for the baby brother(the 6.5” TB sub) of your TB 8” – you can see the following illustrated

Pink trace = one PR the same size(6.5”) and xmax of the driver
Blue trace = two PRs the same size(6.5”) and xmax of the driver
Yellow trace = two 8’ PRs but same xmax of the driver
PR Comparison.gif

Please notice in the transfer function window that the yellow trace 2x8” PRs hold the level pretty constant and also achieve the best F3 for this driver – ie this combination maximizes the LF capability of the driver before the driver cone begins to unload.

Also notice in the PR Cone Excursion window that a single PR(Pink trace) of the same size as the driver is pretty much useless since it will quickly exceed xmax just where it is most needed – ie at the tuning frequency - two PRs(Blue trace) of the same size(as the driver) are better but will probably also exceed their xmax as well. Finally the two larger 8” PRs (Yellow trace) would be moderately safe to use in this configuration(one 6.5” TB sub driver).


Quote:
a 15" PR Seems Bigggg.
Your 8” TB neo sub has an active surface area of about 34 in^2 which means the surface area of the PR(s) you use should be at least 68 in^2 (minimum) - yes, I know that the Exodus 15” PR at 120 in^2 and 35mm of xmax is total overkill but because it is on sale at an incredible price it works out much cheaper than using other smaller PRs to get what your driver will require, even to just meet minimum requirements.

Quote:
Also do you use the P R By itself or in Combination with a Port?
You use either a port or a PR not both.

Last edited by Cokewithlime; 30th March 2010 at 05:02 AM.
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