Hey guys,
So in the 30 minutes that I've been a registered member of this forum I have learned more about general audio than in all previous 20 years of my existence. Yes, I am a 20 year old bass loving audio fanatic.
So far, my audio experience has been limited to car audio. After dozens of different systems in my vehicles and closets full of speakers and boxes... I think it's time to make the jump to home audio!
Due to the previously mentioned surplus of car speakers, I'm planning on using them indoors instead of legitimate home audio speakers.
So my first order of business is to take two 10" subs put them in boxes and rock the house.
Actual Questions Start Here (for those of you who don't like to waste time reading)
1. To power these subs I'm confident I need a plate amplifier. I've stumbled upon rythmicaudio.com and I like their products and prices. Is Rythmic Audio a generally well known and reputable company?
2. Before I got on the website, I knew of two types of boxes; sealed and ported. Now I'm looking at double horned boxes and craziness like that
. What types of boxes do you recommend me researching and building that will work well with my 10" car subs?
Thanks for the help in advance and I can't wait to spend the next few hours of my life exploring this forum and learning about all the projects you guys have accomplished
Thanks, Bryce
So in the 30 minutes that I've been a registered member of this forum I have learned more about general audio than in all previous 20 years of my existence. Yes, I am a 20 year old bass loving audio fanatic.
So far, my audio experience has been limited to car audio. After dozens of different systems in my vehicles and closets full of speakers and boxes... I think it's time to make the jump to home audio!
Due to the previously mentioned surplus of car speakers, I'm planning on using them indoors instead of legitimate home audio speakers.
So my first order of business is to take two 10" subs put them in boxes and rock the house.
Actual Questions Start Here (for those of you who don't like to waste time reading)
1. To power these subs I'm confident I need a plate amplifier. I've stumbled upon rythmicaudio.com and I like their products and prices. Is Rythmic Audio a generally well known and reputable company?
2. Before I got on the website, I knew of two types of boxes; sealed and ported. Now I'm looking at double horned boxes and craziness like that
. What types of boxes do you recommend me researching and building that will work well with my 10" car subs?Thanks for the help in advance and I can't wait to spend the next few hours of my life exploring this forum and learning about all the projects you guys have accomplished
Thanks, Bryce
Welcome
1) I dont know.
2) Tapped horns usually work great with car audio subs. See here for a tutorial on designing them: Simple Tapped Horn Tutorial using Hornresp - AVS Forum
1) I dont know.
2) Tapped horns usually work great with car audio subs. See here for a tutorial on designing them: Simple Tapped Horn Tutorial using Hornresp - AVS Forum
Hi Bryce
For some reason tapped horns seem to be quite fashionable here.
Nothing wrong with them, I'm sure, but for a bit of balance have a look at this site too: The Subwoofer DIY Page
It gives a nice overview of different types of bass enclosures, pros and cons of each, and an idea of how to choose based on your requirements.
Cheers - Godfrey
For some reason tapped horns seem to be quite fashionable here.
Nothing wrong with them, I'm sure, but for a bit of balance have a look at this site too: The Subwoofer DIY Page
It gives a nice overview of different types of bass enclosures, pros and cons of each, and an idea of how to choose based on your requirements.
Cheers - Godfrey
Hi Bryce,
I built my first tapped horn. Perhaps the easiest design to render in plywood is the up and back design. It is just a long box with a diagonal baffle. To get the deep bass down to 30hz, it has to be big. My box is 6 feet long. For classic rock, I find I don't need such a low frequency, thus the box can be shorter.
Although the box is very long, It is narrow and can be mounted between the studs behind a wall if you have a closet or room for that. It can be mounted between the beams in a basement or attic and the vent put into the listening room.
You can go with more folds in the box, but construction becomes more complicated and the box volume is still pretty large. As I'm finding out, driver parameters are important for THs, so your speakers may not be ideal. The good folks here who ran my setup in "Horn Response" showed that my speaker was a poor match.
If you are going to put some power behind those speakers, I would look to a ported enclosure design.
I built my first tapped horn. Perhaps the easiest design to render in plywood is the up and back design. It is just a long box with a diagonal baffle. To get the deep bass down to 30hz, it has to be big. My box is 6 feet long. For classic rock, I find I don't need such a low frequency, thus the box can be shorter.
Although the box is very long, It is narrow and can be mounted between the studs behind a wall if you have a closet or room for that. It can be mounted between the beams in a basement or attic and the vent put into the listening room.
You can go with more folds in the box, but construction becomes more complicated and the box volume is still pretty large. As I'm finding out, driver parameters are important for THs, so your speakers may not be ideal. The good folks here who ran my setup in "Horn Response" showed that my speaker was a poor match.
If you are going to put some power behind those speakers, I would look to a ported enclosure design.
Hey guys, Thanks for the ideas.
One of the first things that caught my eye on this forum were the threads regarding the tapped port. It's a simple design and the resulting sound seems to really exceed the builder's expectations.
Regarding the TS parameters, I don't have the equipment to determine them myself unless there is an easier method without the use of a frequency generator and counter. Since the speaker I'm using is pretty common, I'll look around and see if anybody already has posted the TS parameters. I'm using the JL 10w3v1 (the older single coil version).
Anyways, thanks again for the replies and when I start building I'll be sure to post the progress.
Thanks, Bryce
One of the first things that caught my eye on this forum were the threads regarding the tapped port. It's a simple design and the resulting sound seems to really exceed the builder's expectations.
Regarding the TS parameters, I don't have the equipment to determine them myself unless there is an easier method without the use of a frequency generator and counter. Since the speaker I'm using is pretty common, I'll look around and see if anybody already has posted the TS parameters. I'm using the JL 10w3v1 (the older single coil version).
^Those are some pretty cool ideas about box placement. I'll have to space out my studs and see how much room I have.
Anyways, thanks again for the replies and when I start building I'll be sure to post the progress.
Thanks, Bryce
You could buy a woofer tester: WOOFER TESTER from Parts Express ship same day and come with 45 day money back guarantee. Free Shipping Available. Order free 10,000 product catalog.
Regardless, the JL site doesn't have a v1 manual per se, it instead references the v2 DVC driver manual, so what is your driver's nominal ohm rating? 2, 4, 8, or..... ? JL Audio Discontinued subs - Car Audio Subwoofers
GM
Regardless, the JL site doesn't have a v1 manual per se, it instead references the v2 DVC driver manual, so what is your driver's nominal ohm rating? 2, 4, 8, or..... ? JL Audio Discontinued subs - Car Audio Subwoofers
GM
went into the KEF demo room at the what hifi show in Bristol a couple of weeks ago to hear a demo of their latest one and only set of speakers. dont ask how much, think lottery dosh., but they have came up with the idea of glueing two identical bass drivers together, [back to back magnets], i think they mentioned phase cancelation somewhere. to produce what they think is the best way forward for low end resolution. now i'm not a technical expert, but god they sounded good.why dont you give it a try and tell us nerds how you get on, thats if you fancy a shot.
The listed specs are for DVC drivers and their published specs vary depending on which coils are used and how they are wired. Since the single VC drivers aren't listed, I can only assume that the specs for the DVC driver wired for 2 ohms is the same as a single driver of the same rating...........
Anyway, this equates to a 10W3v2-D4 wired in parallel:
GM
Anyway, this equates to a 10W3v2-D4 wired in parallel:
GM
Attachments
Sounds like a great idea, but has anybody actually built a "push push" sub and used it in their system with great (or at least better than a conventional sub) results? Is the advantage primarily in the reduction of resonance and an easier cabinet build? And since the drivers are coupled together one could easily devise a support from underneath and decouple them from the cabinet. Or is the effort not worth any possible potential in increased performance? Thanks.
Yes, liked it so much I did it a second time with bigger/'badder' drivers. The first time was with a pair of basslist Avatar (Adire) Shivas and 15" PRs to make a mini-Contrabass. Thanks to Tom Danley, the second time I built a kit pair of the 'real McCoy'. Wrecked my house real quick with these, some pipe organ symphonies and the movie U-571.
Referenced to two drivers on the same baffle? Yes/yes.
Not worth the effort IME even when PRs are used. The subs just sit there and pound away.
GM
The first time was with a pair of basslist Avatar (Adire) Shivas and 15" PRs to make a mini-Contrabass. Thanks to Tom Danley, the second time I built a kit pair of the 'real McCoy'. Wrecked my house real quick with these, some pipe organ symphonies and the movie U-571. Referenced to two drivers on the same baffle? Yes/yes.
Not worth the effort IME even when PRs are used. The subs just sit there and pound away.
GM
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