Thoughts? - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Loudspeakers > Subwoofers

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 10th March 2010, 08:50 PM   #1
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Watertown, NY
Default Thoughts?

Kind of new to this. Here is a design I have made. It was created with WinISD Beta (free version).

This will be going in the trunk of my 2000 chrysler concorde, powered by around 200 watts of power give or take. I don't want to win any competitions, I don't want boomy loud bass, I don't want to show off to people as i drive by. What I do want is smooth, low response, with authority, and sound quality.

I would like the box to stay as small as it is, 1 ft3. I do need to use my trunk...

The driver is this one: Parts-Express.com:Tang Band WT-1427G 10" Neo Subwoofer | WT-1427G subwoofer 10" subwoofer low profile thin mount neodynium subwoofer tangband tb speakers

I will use a 2.75" Internal Diameter, 17" Length port, giving tuning of 28Hz. This gives me -3db @ 29Hz. Probably PVC piping. The box will have an inside height of 19", so it will have 2+ inches of space from the other wall of the box, depending on the thickness of the mdf i choose to use.

Just want to hear somebodies thoughts on this before I go out and spend ~200 bucks on putting the sub together.

I appreciate the thought.
Attached Files
File Type: zip recent.wid.zip (619 Bytes, 23 views)
  Reply With Quote
Old 12th March 2010, 08:04 PM   #2
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Montreal, Qc
I'm no expert, but I now know that Ported enclosures can be tricky.. a 2,75'' seems pretty small to me. You may have a lot of port noise. A port should be atleast half the area of the cone area to work. I can't say it won't work well, but maybe someone with more knowledge then me should look into this?
  Reply With Quote
Old 12th March 2010, 08:34 PM   #3
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Watertown, NY
Winisd says "vent mach" is 0.15, and it is green, which (i think) means it is OK. If i go even a tad bit smaller than 2.75, it turns red, which means (i think) that the port velocity will be too high.

I would make it wider, but then my port will be longer, and more difficult to fit inside the box. I would have the port outside of the box, no problem, but I want it to be compact, as to save trunk space.

I will not be listening to this at maximum power regularly, mostly at volume enough to talk to others inside the car, while listening to music. Or if i am alone, it may be loud, but nowhere near maximum power.

I will have a subsonic filter on this to keep the sub from producing anything too low potentially damaging it.

Overall, it seems this is a rather inexpensive way to have a sub in the car, and one that is actually smooth in response, and not "boomy". I do want the potential to be able to crank this thing up and get some decibels, but it is not my goal to be one of those guys driving down the road with my car falling apart.

So, if you think the port may chuff at very high amounts of power, but be just fine with normal "loud" listening levels, then I think i will commit to this build. I guess if needed, i could always make the port bigger later on, right?

edit: BTW, thanks for the response.
  Reply With Quote
Old 12th March 2010, 11:33 PM   #4
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Montreal, Qc
As i said, I'm no expert. When building my own ported sub, I had a port match of 0,08 but yet my ports sounded AWFUL even at 80 dB. I initially thought it would work well, but now it has become complicated to put better suited ports. I'm just saying that it MIGHT be an issue and maybe something to consider. Someone better than me should be able to say if this is an issue. (HINT TO OTHER FORUM MEMBERS...)
  Reply With Quote
Old 13th March 2010, 03:52 AM   #5
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Toronto
Honestly for your requirements and a 1ft^3 enclosure I would recommend that you look at the Tang Band W8Q-1071F 8"x12" Subwoofer and do a sealed enclosure. The 8x12 will outperform the 10" in having more xmax and output - it is also rated at twice the power capability of the 10" - and with cabin gain inside the car this will give you more than enough LF to rattle anything that is loose with the car - if you want to turn it up

Overall the two subs are about the same price but the 8x12 in a sealed box will be a simpler build for you and give you, I think, results that you will be really happy with.

Last edited by Cokewithlime; 13th March 2010 at 04:00 AM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 13th March 2010, 05:09 PM   #6
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Watertown, NY
Hi, cokewithlime, thank you for your response. I have modeled that driver, and with neither a ported, or a sealed enclosure, will I be able to get lows extended to the length I can with the other driver, at 1 ft^3. I understand that with cabin gain it will help make up for it, but will that not also produce a peak in the upper sub frequencies, that will not be equal to the response of the lower ones?

Also, very high spl and loud bass is not necessarily what I am looking for here. Mainly what I want is smooth response and the capability of low frequencies. Of course I want it to be able to be loud also, but more want to focus on low frequency response and smooth.

Forgive me if I misunderstood your post or I am missing something here.

It should be noted that I like a large variety of music, and some of it does have content that could be well below 30Hz.
  Reply With Quote
Old 13th March 2010, 06:02 PM   #7
diyAudio Member
 
event horizon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: East Midlands, England
odysseybmx414, i suggest you download a copy of WinISD pro.

If you do that you'll really be able to get a decent idea of how that 2.75" port will perform. Instead of just getting a mach number of say 0.15 (you do realise that means the port velocity will be 0.15 x speed of sound or 49.5m second/ 162.3 ft per second) you'll be able to see the velocity of the port air at different frequencies & powers. You'll also see how much power the driver can handle (excursion or power limited) at any frequency. That's only the half of it while i think about it...

Take it from me, the Pro version is vastly superior They are both free & i have both, i can't remember the last time i used the earlier version though.
__________________
"Never let your morals prevent you from doing what is right!" Salvor Hardin
  Reply With Quote
Old 13th March 2010, 06:44 PM   #8
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Toronto
Quote:
Originally Posted by odysseybmx414 View Post
Hi, cokewithlime, thank you for your response. I have modeled that driver, and with neither a ported, or a sealed enclosure, will I be able to get lows extended to the length I can with the other driver, at 1 ft^3. I understand that with cabin gain it will help make up for it, but will that not also produce a peak in the upper sub frequencies, that will not be equal to the response of the lower ones?

Also, very high spl and loud bass is not necessarily what I am looking for here. Mainly what I want is smooth response and the capability of low frequencies. Of course I want it to be able to be loud also, but more want to focus on low frequency response and smooth.

Forgive me if I misunderstood your post or I am missing something here.

It should be noted that I like a large variety of music, and some of it does have content that could be well below 30Hz.
In a vehicle you are really unable to perceive anything less than 30Hz - in fact the gut moving and chest thumping in a car that you associate with LF happens between 40Hz to 80Hz.

I modeled both drivers in WinISD PRO and honestly, the 8x12 in a 1ft^3 sealed enclosure will provide you a much smoother LF extension well suited to a sub in your car than the neo10" in a similar size ported enclosure. If you where building a sub for your home environment I would probably say the exact opposite. Besides looking at graphs you also have to have some real would experience into how these designs actually sound and work in the environment they are intended for.
  Reply With Quote
Old 13th March 2010, 10:05 PM   #9
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Watertown, NY
well thanks coke, I will take your word for it. This will not be built for a while, at least for a couple months, but I want to get the plans down.

Hell, 8x12 will be easier for me to cut than a circle anyway.

Only other thing I have to figure out is how much I have to compensate for internal box volume in terms of bracing.

Thanks guys!
  Reply With Quote
Old 13th March 2010, 10:20 PM   #10
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Toronto
Just oversize the enclosure volume by about 5%, that will account for any and all internal bracing you put in.
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
My thoughts. And nothing else. Gyuri The Lounge 227 18th May 2014 01:29 PM
3A5 thoughts Ryssen Tubes / Valves 7 14th October 2009 09:20 AM
Some DAC thoughts Bernhard Digital Source 9 31st January 2005 02:54 PM
Your thoughts please Ken L Tubes / Valves 41 31st October 2002 08:44 PM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 03:16 PM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2