Basic Sub for Ariels - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Loudspeakers > Subwoofers

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 19th February 2010, 12:29 PM   #1
Doug R is offline Doug R  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Indy
Default Basic Sub for Ariels

Hi All,

I have a pair of Ariel speakers, driven by a 300b amp. I am just finishing a 12B4 line preamp with first order high-pass filter at 80 Hz for the 300b's and Ariels. I bought two of the small sub amps (35W?) from Jack Hinley recently and would like to build a sub.

The Apexjr subs look promising. I see the design by David Dlugos, which describes it as push-push. On the Apexjr site, it is listed as push-pull. I assume the latter is a typo - correct?

Does this seem like a good design to try or does anyone have other suggestions. I do not want or need a humongous subwoofer - just something to fill in the bottom of my Ariels.

Thanks!

Doug Rice
  Reply With Quote
Old 19th February 2010, 05:17 PM   #2
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Toronto
The sub amp from Jack Hidley will give you 80W @ 8ohms output and is a great buy. If needed two of those amplifiers can be bridged together for higher power output Hidley Amp FAQ doc

For the price, two of the Super8 4ohm subs from Steve at Apexjr, model very well in a 1.75ft^3 ported enclosure. You should be able to get about 107db with a F3 of 32Hz without EQ or exceeding xmax of those drivers.

If you needed a smaller enclosure( ie approx 1ft^3) you could go sealed, but the Hidley amp doesn't have bass boost capabilities so you would have to live with a much higher F3 (approx 65Hz).

The push-pull configuration will definitely help to reduce cabinet vibrations, if that is a concern of yours.

Last edited by Cokewithlime; 19th February 2010 at 05:23 PM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 19th February 2010, 06:56 PM   #3
Doug R is offline Doug R  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Indy
Default follow up questions

Thank you for your reply Coke.

Looking further at the Apexjr Super8, it is 2.65 ohms. If I wire a pair in series, it would give 5.3 ohms, right?

The Hinley/NHT amp can be used for 8 or 4 ohms, BUT the Hinley amp FAQ says that when bridging two amps, they need an 8 ohm load. With a 4 ohm load, they trip the self protection. I assume this means I could only use one amp if making a dual Super8 sub, right?

I don't know much about sub drivers (obviously.) Would a DVC speaker make more sense? Or I could sell of the NHT amps. I don't think I need/want two separate sub boxes (neither would the wife.

Thanks for your help.
Doug
  Reply With Quote
Old 19th February 2010, 08:39 PM   #4
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Toronto
Actually the Znorm of the Apexjr Super8s is 4ohms. So if you ran 2 of them in series in one cabinet they would total to a 8ohm load for the Hidley amp. Try it with one amp first, you wouldn't necessarily need to bridge the second amp unless you find that running with just one is causing clipping and/or the max output level is too low for your needs.

As I mentioned before, if you mounted 2 of those drivers and the one amp in a 1.75ft^3 enclosure with a 3" diameter flared port about 7 3/4" long you will have a nice small powerful sub with a F3 around 32Hz.

Last edited by Cokewithlime; 19th February 2010 at 08:46 PM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 19th February 2010, 09:17 PM   #5
Doug R is offline Doug R  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Indy
I think I got it now.
Thanks for your help Coke.
Doug
  Reply With Quote
Old 20th February 2010, 05:17 AM   #6
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: NorCal
Funny thing, I received two of JH's plate amps today, and two Apex Jr. subs showed up earlier in the week. Mine will go in separate boxes, one amp per driver. Opposed drivers in one box will reduce cabinet vibration, but I think I'll gain more by being able to move the subs around the room independently to try to smooth out the overall bass response. I'll see how that works out once I get to cutting wood.

I've also worked out a tapped horn design for the Apex Jr. I might try building that just for fun. It would be interesting to compare the same driver in BR and TH designs side by side.

Bill
__________________
The difference between theory and practice is that in theory there is no difference between theory and practice, but in practice there is.
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
A few questions about altering the Ariels CamMan595 Multi-Way 1 23rd August 2007 04:25 AM
My Ariels GazzaFloyd Multi-Way 11 9th August 2005 02:00 AM
Sub woofers for Ariels chrish Subwoofers 4 1st May 2005 01:56 AM
Design basis for Ariels? Gaber Multi-Way 7 24th April 2002 04:08 PM
Ariels with AKSA? BigDan Solid State 0 21st December 2001 06:07 PM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 04:57 PM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright ©1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2