This is the new Tapped Horn I'm building as experiment
Not intended to be a super bass killer, just a bass extension to main speakers in small rooms.
Also, it is supposed to be just an experiment. I will publish here the next steps, measurements, comparison with simulations, etc.
thanks
HF
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Not intended to be a super bass killer, just a bass extension to main speakers in small rooms.
Also, it is supposed to be just an experiment. I will publish here the next steps, measurements, comparison with simulations, etc.
thanks
HF
News:
Measurement results:
(Has some room interference)
Hornresp results:
The result is truly amazing. The driver is brand new stock, hope gets better (if possible).
The sound is amazing. Nothing better than a 6,5" driver in subwoofer enclosure to combine with 4,5" full range drivers. Much better than my last 10" TL. I can't believe the bass it generates. 30Hz easily.
Remark: My room is small.
Driver is a Brazilian Akron KB6.
This is all the beginning. I need to play with the position and do more listening yet. Also need to solve some air leakage in the driver cabinet cover and also in the bornes.
more reports soon!
thanks
HF
Measurement results:
(Has some room interference)
Hornresp results:
The result is truly amazing. The driver is brand new stock, hope gets better (if possible).
The sound is amazing. Nothing better than a 6,5" driver in subwoofer enclosure to combine with 4,5" full range drivers. Much better than my last 10" TL. I can't believe the bass it generates. 30Hz easily.
Remark: My room is small.
Driver is a Brazilian Akron KB6.
This is all the beginning. I need to play with the position and do more listening yet. Also need to solve some air leakage in the driver cabinet cover and also in the bornes.
more reports soon!
thanks
HF
THs are basically TLs, so lining the throat/driver area yields the most damping for a given stuffing density as proven by internal views/measurements of DSL's SPUD and its larger, lower tuned DTS10 as well as a forum poster's SPUD ~clone awhile back where he found that it doesn't take much to over-damp one. Indeed, if you model it as an offset TL in MJK's software and use polyfil stuffing in a cheesecloth or similar bag, then you can probably tune it close enough without having to fiddle with a temporarily removable side plate.
Yeah, me too. Don't have a use for one ATM, but wish I was able to do some building/testing of various design routines I've cooked up to see how reality differs from sims, especially those that I can't sim in HR and don't want to take the time to learn AkAbak unless any of them pan out. IIRC, TD mentioned on the DTS10 thread that he's concluded that the SPUD/DTS10 design routine is the way to go for HIFI/HT apps at least and judging by Highef's results with a NIB (published specs?) driver, he's probably right.
GM
Yeah, me too. Don't have a use for one ATM, but wish I was able to do some building/testing of various design routines I've cooked up to see how reality differs from sims, especially those that I can't sim in HR and don't want to take the time to learn AkAbak unless any of them pan out. IIRC, TD mentioned on the DTS10 thread that he's concluded that the SPUD/DTS10 design routine is the way to go for HIFI/HT apps at least and judging by Highef's results with a NIB (published specs?) driver, he's probably right.
GM
Despite the possible problems that the response above 100Hz could cause, I found an optimal position of this TH in my room. How I found this position? Well, I was very criticized by local friends when I told them how. I was changing the position and doing listening. I couldn't reach any conclusion. Then I decided do measurements from 0 to 200 Hz for each different position of the subwoofer in my room. Then I chose the position that had the best linearity on the graphs. It was in the right side wall, with the mouth pointing upwards.
The final results are very good for the ears and I'll let it there for a while. Maybe because above 100Hz we have a little directionality and they are not pointed to my ears directly.
HF
The final results are very good for the ears and I'll let it there for a while. Maybe because above 100Hz we have a little directionality and they are not pointed to my ears directly.
HF
Solve,
The measurements are not smoothed, at least using RoomEQ I don't believe it is being done. What I do it to always use a low resolution vertical scale. It does kinda graph averaging and its easier to interpret the results.
GM,
I made more measurements today to report here. All the measurements were done with the full system turned on. The test signal connected to the pre-amp CD input and the SPL meter (C-weigthning, 80dB scale) at the listening position.
This is the reference measurement with the subwoofer at the best position:
Reference x Sub in the other side of the room.
Reference x Sub in the front wall of the room:
You can believe that the reference is not that best comparing to the other, but check this:
In reference position I have around 0.7s in the sub-low register while the others 1.2 and 1.9! That's the main reason why I chose the green one.
I will lower this 0.7s with more bass traps (I already use a lot for my small room), just waiting for some budget.
thanks!
HF
The measurements are not smoothed, at least using RoomEQ I don't believe it is being done. What I do it to always use a low resolution vertical scale. It does kinda graph averaging and its easier to interpret the results.
GM,
I made more measurements today to report here. All the measurements were done with the full system turned on. The test signal connected to the pre-amp CD input and the SPL meter (C-weigthning, 80dB scale) at the listening position.
This is the reference measurement with the subwoofer at the best position:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Reference x Sub in the other side of the room.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Reference x Sub in the front wall of the room:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
You can believe that the reference is not that best comparing to the other, but check this:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
In reference position I have around 0.7s in the sub-low register while the others 1.2 and 1.9! That's the main reason why I chose the green one.
I will lower this 0.7s with more bass traps (I already use a lot for my small room), just waiting for some budget.
thanks!
HF
Last edited:
GM,
each plot is for only one position. I positioned the sub and started the measurement.
I don't use digital EQ. EQ solve the peaks problems but don't solve reverb problems. For example, I have 0.7 seconds of reverb in low register. No EQ will lower that. Only effective acoustic treatment.
What I use is a crossover that allows me to set the subwoofer gain and cut. This way I set it to the best integration point to my Planet-10 Enabled Fonkens.
This is my system scheme:
HF
That's impressive if you don't need any room correction other than for reverb. In this thread for the DSL DTS-10, folks are having to use mass quantities of digital EQ to tame them in-room, though they are averaging out multiple seating positions: Danley DTS-10 "Super Spud" DIY kit - AVS Forum
GM
GM
Hi Highef,
This is all very impressive stuff. Congratulations! I'm particularly interested in getting 30Hz out of such a small driver. (And a Brazilian driver, at that, which is good news for all of us down here...)
I'm still trying to absorb the technical stuff above. You remark above about the behaviour between 100Hz and 200Hz - can I ask where you are crossing over to the Fonkens?
Um abraco
Nigel
This is all very impressive stuff. Congratulations! I'm particularly interested in getting 30Hz out of such a small driver. (And a Brazilian driver, at that, which is good news for all of us down here...)
I'm still trying to absorb the technical stuff above. You remark above about the behaviour between 100Hz and 200Hz - can I ask where you are crossing over to the Fonkens?
Um abraco
Nigel
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.