Need a very loud sub box design for wakeboard boat - diyAudio
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Old 28th January 2010, 12:08 AM   #1
justint is offline justint  United States
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Default Need a very loud sub box design for wakeboard boat

I have attached a picture of the space that I am working with... Need a very loud design.. 3 sealed 10's is not loud enough .. thinking tapped horn or some other crazy loud design..

I have a Memphis Mc-2000 amplifier .. Specs 1100 watts rms 4ohm 2000 watts 2ohm.

Let me know any ideas. I have attached a picture showing dimensions for the space
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File Type: jpg IMG_0494.JPG (970.8 KB, 644 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0578.jpg (295.5 KB, 559 views)
File Type: jpg boat.jpg (36.8 KB, 599 views)

Last edited by justint; 28th January 2010 at 12:11 AM.
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Old 28th January 2010, 01:41 AM   #2
NEO Dan is offline NEO Dan  United States
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A tapped horn could fit in there. How tall can it be?
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Old 28th January 2010, 03:22 AM   #3
NEO Dan is offline NEO Dan  United States
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Something "like" this:
Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 28th January 2010, 01:57 PM   #4
justint is offline justint  United States
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My issue is that it can only be 10" tall total
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Old 28th January 2010, 02:51 PM   #5
Brotaku is offline Brotaku  United States
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Eminence delta series woofers have 99db sensitivity and can take about 600w making them 127db.
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Old 28th January 2010, 03:02 PM   #6
jbell is offline jbell  United States
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A TH is actually a good suggestion, due to it's directivity, and the fact that you are 'open top'

How about this? good up to 56volts, and good xmax wise down MUCH lower than one would expect, so I don't think you'll need the typical high pass.

This is a 'bump' sub with a huge 60hz spike. I'm guessing your amp might have a 40hz bass boost? If so, add a little 40hz to fatten out the big 60hz spike, and I think you will be happy. Cross at 100hz.

Should fit nicely. Driver is eminence 3015lf.

If you don't want quite so much 60hz 'bump' you can make the 1" dimension up to 2" (personally I favor the 2" option, but then it's less 60hz, and installing the 3015lf gets tighter.)
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Last edited by jbell; 28th January 2010 at 03:30 PM.
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Old 28th January 2010, 03:52 PM   #7
justint is offline justint  United States
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the 15" would be great but I can only go 10" high.. i don't think its possible to tilt per say the subwoofer to that angle and have it work?
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Old 28th January 2010, 04:58 PM   #8
jbell is offline jbell  United States
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The picture I gave is the side view. It's only 10" total high.
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Old 28th January 2010, 06:17 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbell View Post
......

If you don't want quite so much 60hz 'bump' you can make the 1" dimension up to 2" (personally I favor the 2" option, but then it's less 60hz, and installing the 3015lf gets tighter.)
If your construction techniques are really good, and you use solid material, you can drop the driver in through the baffle from the throat side. You will have to seal the access to the driver very well with a very solid access cover.

I'm serious. In my most recent build, a pair of 8's can visibly move a 1/2" plywood access hatch (on the mouth side) with only 10 watts into them. Admittedly - it is not baltic birch, and it is a pretty big span, but they are 8's, with 10 watts....

Air leaks and cabinet resonances kill the performance of these enclosures.
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Old 28th January 2010, 06:42 PM   #10
justint is offline justint  United States
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i might be a slight bit confused but there is normally a seat over the top of the portion that is showing.. from my picture.. I would have to have the vent on the side where it is only 10" high.. my construction techniques are good so I am not worried there.. Costs for the proper material is not an issue either.
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