I have attached a picture of the space that I am working with... Need a very loud design.. 3 sealed 10's is not loud enough .. thinking tapped horn or some other crazy loud design..
I have a Memphis Mc-2000 amplifier .. Specs 1100 watts rms 4ohm 2000 watts 2ohm.
Let me know any ideas. I have attached a picture showing dimensions for the space
I have a Memphis Mc-2000 amplifier .. Specs 1100 watts rms 4ohm 2000 watts 2ohm.
Let me know any ideas. I have attached a picture showing dimensions for the space
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A TH is actually a good suggestion, due to it's directivity, and the fact that you are 'open top'
How about this? good up to 56volts, and good xmax wise down MUCH lower than one would expect, so I don't think you'll need the typical high pass.
This is a 'bump' sub with a huge 60hz spike. I'm guessing your amp might have a 40hz bass boost? If so, add a little 40hz to fatten out the big 60hz spike, and I think you will be happy. Cross at 100hz.
Should fit nicely. Driver is eminence 3015lf.
If you don't want quite so much 60hz 'bump' you can make the 1" dimension up to 2" (personally I favor the 2" option, but then it's less 60hz, and installing the 3015lf gets tighter.)
How about this? good up to 56volts, and good xmax wise down MUCH lower than one would expect, so I don't think you'll need the typical high pass.
This is a 'bump' sub with a huge 60hz spike. I'm guessing your amp might have a 40hz bass boost? If so, add a little 40hz to fatten out the big 60hz spike, and I think you will be happy. Cross at 100hz.
Should fit nicely. Driver is eminence 3015lf.
If you don't want quite so much 60hz 'bump' you can make the 1" dimension up to 2" (personally I favor the 2" option, but then it's less 60hz, and installing the 3015lf gets tighter.)
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If your construction techniques are really good, and you use solid material, you can drop the driver in through the baffle from the throat side. You will have to seal the access to the driver very well with a very solid access cover.
I'm serious. In my most recent build, a pair of 8's can visibly move a 1/2" plywood access hatch (on the mouth side) with only 10 watts into them. Admittedly - it is not baltic birch, and it is a pretty big span, but they are 8's, with 10 watts....
Air leaks and cabinet resonances kill the performance of these enclosures.
i might be a slight bit confused but there is normally a seat over the top of the portion that is showing.. from my picture.. I would have to have the vent on the side where it is only 10" high.. my construction techniques are good so I am not worried there.. Costs for the proper material is not an issue either.
the 'vent' is about 8" high by 15" wide on the far right hand side of the box, and is approximately where your right most 10" driver is. That opening is the only opening in the box. This should not interfere with your seat, and that 8x15 opening is the only opening needed, which should keep the driver safe from feet / water.
The 3015lf is facing up into a horn throat of about 1-2" by 15" wide. The sound travels the length of the box, turns around and comes back and meets up with the rear wave of the driver. Once it makes it back, it exits through the 'side' exit.
Basically the box is:
top/bottom 15x50
sides 10x50
ends 10x16
Speaker baffle 15x45
One 'side' needs an approx 8x15 opening cut in it. (the opening follows the angle of the speaker baffle)
make sense?
Oh, btw, is more than 120db what you are looking for?
The 3015lf is facing up into a horn throat of about 1-2" by 15" wide. The sound travels the length of the box, turns around and comes back and meets up with the rear wave of the driver. Once it makes it back, it exits through the 'side' exit.
Basically the box is:
top/bottom 15x50
sides 10x50
ends 10x16
Speaker baffle 15x45
One 'side' needs an approx 8x15 opening cut in it. (the opening follows the angle of the speaker baffle)
make sense?
Oh, btw, is more than 120db what you are looking for?
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Don't worry about 8ohm of the 3015lf. For a TH this is about the be$t driver around in my opinion.
I doubt you'll find a lower ohm driver that can hit 127@50hz in 2pi space in the volume that you have.
I could be wrong though...
If you'll tell us what your current 10's are, and the volume of the sealed chambers, someone can give you a comparison vs what you have now. I think it'll be an eye opener.
I doubt you'll find a lower ohm driver that can hit 127@50hz in 2pi space in the volume that you have.
I could be wrong though...
If you'll tell us what your current 10's are, and the volume of the sealed chambers, someone can give you a comparison vs what you have now. I think it'll be an eye opener.
I am using the kicker CVT subs in 1 cubic foot boxes.. here are the specs on them.. Not sure if 2 of the 10's would work in the TH.. better than the 1 3015lf.... You guys seem to be the genious's on this so I am all ears!!!!
Specs
Model:
07CVT102
07CVT104
Norm Imp
4.00
SPL dB
86.73
Lem mH
3.185
Reve
3.83
Sd Sq.M
0.0379
BL TM
13.89
Vas Litr
34.36
Mms gram
116.53
Fs Hz
35.7
Qms
10.012
Qes
0.523
Qts
0.497
Xmax mm
9.20
Specs
Model:
07CVT102
07CVT104
Norm Imp
4.00
SPL dB
86.73
Lem mH
3.185
Reve
3.83
Sd Sq.M
0.0379
BL TM
13.89
Vas Litr
34.36
Mms gram
116.53
Fs Hz
35.7
Qms
10.012
Qes
0.523
Qts
0.497
Xmax mm
9.20
all I gotta say is that if this chart is correct I am posting hot 20 something women with very very few clothes on my boat for you guys as a thank you.. Let the building start.. I am sure I will have questions but thanks for the analysis what is this software that you guys are using that is amazing
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