Is it better to..... - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Loudspeakers > Subwoofers

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 13th January 2010, 01:37 AM   #1
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Default Is it better to.....

going to a single sub woofer. if i joined the left and right channels from the source, is better to go.....

source, crossover, amp, speaker.

or...
source, amp, crossover, speaker.



that would entail different kinds of crossovers i understand.
  Reply With Quote
Old 13th January 2010, 02:22 AM   #2
diyAudio Member
 
davygrvy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Oakland, CA
Blog Entries: 1
Electronic cross overs are preferred for at least three reasons off-hand.

1) parts are less expensive. Try pricing the cost of a single 10uF/200V polyester cap!

2) digital domain allows for features you just can't get in passive networks like time delay to match physical offset.

3) efficiency. total sound output is greater, as there are less losses.

Behringer DCX2496
DBX DriveRack PA+
__________________
Think out of the box
  Reply With Quote
Old 13th January 2010, 02:46 AM   #3
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
right thanks for clarifying that. active crossovers are going to be more efficient than passive ones.

i was wondering about combining the left and right signals before the amp or after it. which would be a better idea.

most sub notes are mono, but what if there are ones that are not. will positive or minus be sent the wrong way somewhere?
  Reply With Quote
Old 13th January 2010, 03:20 AM   #4
diyAudio Member
 
davygrvy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Oakland, CA
Blog Entries: 1
before the amp. So you'll have three outputs. two for left and right above 90 Hz with one output for the sub of the mono L+R mix below 90 Hz (or so).
__________________
Think out of the box

Last edited by davygrvy; 13th January 2010 at 03:22 AM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 13th January 2010, 04:08 AM   #5
diyAudio Member
 
Moondog55's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Norlane; Geelong: Victoria: Australia
Dave can you post the buying site for those recycled electrons?/ I have been looking all over and can only find new ones here.
Tell me do the recycled ones last as long as the new ones or do I have to make an allowance and buy a few extra?/
__________________
QUOTE" The more I know, the more I know, I know (insert maniacal laugh >here<) NOTHING"
  Reply With Quote
Old 13th January 2010, 04:53 AM   #6
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Pacific Northwest
Depends on where you get em, some can be pretty wore out by the time they've been through the interweb a few times. I hear Davy's got a good source though...
  Reply With Quote
Old 13th January 2010, 07:08 AM   #7
diyAudio Member
 
davygrvy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Oakland, CA
Blog Entries: 1
According Boltzmann's constant, proved by Max Planck around 1900, the energy of an electron is dependent on its temperature. Just heat them up a bit to restore them to like new condition.

Make sure to use pure silver wire (about 10 lbs per foot) in a pure radon environment not greater than 2 atmospheres of pressure for the effect to stabilize the particles. I heat my radon to 295.15 degrees Kelvin. Think of it as a vulcanization process.

Did you know that a petabyte of data weighs 2.89 grams?

I'm so FOS
__________________
Think out of the box
  Reply With Quote
Old 13th January 2010, 01:00 PM   #8
jbell is offline jbell  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: .
Quote:
Originally Posted by davygrvy View Post
I heat my radon to 295.15 degrees Kelvin. Think of it as a vulcanization process....I'm so FOS

Live long and prosper dave....
  Reply With Quote
Old 13th January 2010, 04:07 PM   #9
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Toronto and Delray Beach, FL
Quote:
Originally Posted by davygrvy View Post
before the amp. So you'll have three outputs. two for left and right above 90 Hz with one output for the sub of the mono L+R mix below 90 Hz (or so).
I've been living happily with mixed-bass and a 140 Hz (18 dB/8ave) electronic cross-over since 1968. At 90 Hz, you aren't keeping much bass out of the mid-range drivers.

Long ago at Bell Labs, I had a buddy who used full-range Klischorns but added a mixed-bass below 40 Hz. Then he built a house with a room suitable for playing his system in.
__________________
Dennesen ESL tweets, Dayton-Wright ESL (110-3200Hz), mixed-bass Klipschorn (35-110), and giant OB using 1960's Stephens woofer (18-35); Behringer DSP. HiFi aspirations since 1956
  Reply With Quote
Old 13th January 2010, 07:44 PM   #10
diyAudio Member
 
davygrvy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Oakland, CA
Blog Entries: 1
I thought we were talking about subwoofers? ala adding a sub to an existing full range system. I have good results with 90Hz. That way I can't localize were the box is in the soundstage.
__________________
Think out of the box

Last edited by davygrvy; 13th January 2010 at 07:49 PM.
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 12:21 AM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2