Sonotube Sub - Just making sure I got this right....

[veovius]

Hi, I'm new to the whole home audio thing, although I've been in car audio for a bit. I've been reading and reading till my head hurts, about building a sonotube sub. I just want to recap, and make sure I've got my cliff's notes right.

So, to build a T-line sonotube with the following driver : Dayton 310-88DVC 12"
Which has an Fs of 22.2hz, I should build it with a 16" tube to make sure I don't damp the Qts with too little Vb, and it should be around 8' long to get a tuning frequency of 30hz. Stuffed, it should be good down to just past 20hz.

Did I get that right?

Oh, any idea what kind of power I'd need for something like this?

[veovius]

Hi, anybody? I would just like to make sure I'm reading stuff right, and not build something and get it wrong. Thanks!

[chris661]

Most people that use sonotubes use them as a cylinder, to give a fixed volume.

You seem to be talking of some sort of transmission line...

[Brian Steele]

Originally Posted by veovius

Did I get that right?

What software are you using to model the predicted output of your subwoofer?

[oilcanracer]

Originally Posted by veovius

Hi, I'm new to the whole home audio thing, although I've been in car audio for a bit. I've been reading and reading till my head hurts, about building a sonotube sub. I just want to recap, and make sure I've got my cliff's notes right.

So, to build a T-line sonotube with the following driver : Dayton 310-88DVC 12"
Which has an Fs of 22.2hz, I should build it with a 16" tube to make sure I don't damp the Qts with too little Vb, and it should be around 8' long to get a tuning frequency of 30hz. Stuffed, it should be good down to just past 20hz.

Did I get that right?

Oh, any idea what kind of power I'd need for something like this?

the amount of power you will need is subjective to the room(room gain or corner loading). a more efficient room will require a lot less watts. for every 3-5db's there is a jump of 200-400 watts. in the sub category it would be even more.

also what are your volume level needs. are wanting to blow the windows out or just get some realistic sub/feeling in the room. ultimately matching the subs to the rest of your system is key here.


didn't see any mention of ported or not. i am assuming you are porting/tuning as well.

[Kashmire]

it should be around 8' long to get a tuning frequency of 30hz.

Sounds like a pipe organ ... in college, I wanted to build a "pipe organ subwoofer" consisting of several different length tubes, each with a long-throw 8" driver and open on the other end. Each tube would be highly efficient in a narrow band, and together, they'd cover the lower octaves. To capture real pipe organ music, the longest one would have been 32' long ...

[Kashmire]

didn't see any mention of ported or not. i am assuming you are porting/tuning as well.

From what I read in the OP, he wants to mount the driver on one end, and leave the other end open.

[oublie]

http://daytonaudio.com/files/specs/D..._specsheet.pdf

use horn response and created a tapped horn.

you should be good for over 130db down to 30hz figuring on a 1000w amp into 4ohms but i would use a steep high pass filter at 30hz with this.

1000cm squared pipe 2 meters long will be scary, se el pipo as built by Nelson Pass.

[veovius]

Originally Posted by Kashmire

From what I read in the OP, he wants to mount the driver on one end, and leave the other end open.

Yes, I was planning on building a straight wall transmission line, similar to the single-sub Shiva Sonotube build. Link HERE. Open top, Sonotube, driver bottom facing, with a small footing.

My goal is for home theater, I'd like to have enough bass to fulfill that purpose. I'm not too interested in having stuff fly off my walls, since I did that with car audio and all I got was hearing loss I'm looking for clean, fast bass with some good extension down low. From what I understand, it seems that a transmission line would be the way to go.

Originally Posted by Brian Steele

What software are you using to model the predicted output of your subwoofer?

I'm not really using any software, but rather using information from different builds around the net. There is a spreadsheet on the tlinespeakers website, but I can't wrap my head around it, I'm not really an engineer-type of guy. But from what I've gathered, a T-line needs to be 1/4 of the wavelength you're trying to hit, so ~8ft for 30hz. Someone else mentioned that using a 12" driver in a 12" tube would result in overdamping of the Sub, too much Qts, and recommended a Vb of 1.5 to 4x the Vas. Using a 16" tube is about double the volume of a 12" tube.

What's this about a tapped horn? I googled it real quick, and it looks like the opposite of a tapered transmission line. When I think horns, I think of those monstrous (Klipsch, I think?) tuba-like horns that are 5 ft across.

Thanks for the power information, I guess a 300W plate amp might not be enough?

[oublie]

have a look at this thread i'm doing something similar when i ever get enough time - I wish i was unemployed

diy 20 Hz tapped horn plans