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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Tasmania
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Hey I'm wondering if these little subs could be handy for my studio set up, thinking of building a couple of little tapped horns with them.
Alpine SPR 175 A Car Loudspeaker: Amazon.co.uk: Electronics & Photo http://www.alpine.com.au/downloads/a..._catalogue.pdf They are second hand but in good condition can anyone suggest a price?(only bass drivers no tweeters) Can't find xmax, specs etc can anyone help?? Main reasons are: >My mate has them kicking about an they look similar to tang bands etc an there's nothing like parts express down here in aus to find tang bands or equivalent..(cheap small bass drivers haven't really hit oz, or am I wrong? I'd love it if I was. >Second reason is that I'd love a project an I'd love to build some TH's I'm thinking a single or double fold with some OB's or sealed top boxes.... Any comments? Please be gentle.... Last edited by juxta; 8th January 2010 at 01:56 PM. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Hillsborough, NC/McLean, VA
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Those aren't subs, they're midbasses...I think you'd be pretty disappointed if you were trying to use them as subs, especially in small enclosures.
Sorry
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Jim J. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
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Can you get hold of skytronic drivers? they are pretty good value in the uk, although from my experiance need a larger box and electronic eq. I can get 96dB @ 25Hz from a couple of 10" drivers that cost £12 each although with 410mm x 410mm x 300 mm boxes which dosen't exactly satisfy the small part.
Last edited by kipman725; 8th January 2010 at 03:22 PM. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: .
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check out JBL car subs in oz. The gto line from 8" on up work pretty well in horns.
These are well made subs, with real T/S specs, not chi-wan-eese knock offs. that's still the only answer I know of for you. Last edited by jbell; 8th January 2010 at 06:15 PM. |
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Tasmania
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Quote:
Plus I just couldn't fit a 10" TH in with everything else.... Back to the drawing board!
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Los Angeles
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Tapped horns for a studio? Those are great for SPL, but certainly not the ultimate in sound quality due to ringing in the horn.
What are your main speakers, amps, crossover? And why do you need small subs? |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Melbourne, Australia
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For a studio setup I'd go in a very different direction. Firstly a nice pair of monitors TM in a sealed box. Say a 6.5" driver which would give you an easy to integrate 80 Hz 2nd order roll off. Then a 12" sealed Rythmik sub in a 55L box. That would be my starting point.
What you are doing is starting with a small driver that suggests you want a small sub, then putting it in a big box which negates that benefit. Then you add all kinds of difficulty in driver selection and many things that can go wrong. Fun for an experiment, and potentially a lot of bang for buck. But to get a good result with critical demands it sounds like a nutty direction. Panned bass? The other day I was running my system active with 4th order slopes on the mids to the subs at 80 Hz. With the subs off, you won't believe how much bass. It really challenged my ideas. You can't localise the subs except when your ear is 1ft away from the driver. The bass has as much direction as it needs, the 80 Hz point is enough to keep the imaging where it should be. In controlled tests, it's been found that at 80 Hz you simply can't locate sounds. At that point one sub is enough and there is no reason to pan the bass. If you want to create the sensation all the stereo content is needed only above 80 Hz. In fact, for most people 120 Hz doesn't localise either. 80 Hz is the point where no one can tell. The only reason that you might localise would be related to harmonic distortion from the subs which is tricking you. While I'm a fan of OB speakers they are the last thing I'd use in a studio.
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Red Spade Audio Blog | Writer for: Hifi Zine S3 Synergy horn + 18" active woofers + T20 horn sub + B&C active surrounds + Custom Acoustic Treatment |
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
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Quote:
if your horn design is ringing or chuffing you need to start with damping the first 1.5 meters of your horn and keep adding one meter per test until it goes away. if you get near the mouth of the horn, you got the wrong speaker for the horn size. it is over powering the design. essentially you want soundwaves to speedup(or at least not slow down) as they travel thru their path of the horn. increase in horn size help with this as well as lets the sub wave not create distortion. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Tasmania
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Yeah thanks guys the idea was just an idea an it's been well an truly squashed for a while.
I guess I should get my grammar "correct" so I don't get misunderstood. I wasn't really thinking that some 6" Clarion speakers would be 30hz demons I was just pondering about some bass an whether or not some box work could improve the little speakers. I keep forgetting to say bass rather than sub bass, maybe why you misunderstood with bass panning. Listen to my songs an you'll hear some directional bass sweeps, there's no page for bass drivers there's only sub-woofers, seems lots of people fall into the mistaken word war round here. I'm not a rich guy so I've put up with a fair few **** set ups in my studio, right now I'm just lucky to have speakers.. I know my systems pretty well an I've been writing and performing my music for two years on top notch systems, no ones complaining....Just takes a bit of trial and error to get everything flat. In short I'll just grab some powered monitors for $750 this winter when works picked up, just means I've gotta run to a mates for final eq'ing of summer sets.... Could be worse ![]() Here's some of my music in you're interested Posk Array on MySpace Music - Free Streaming MP3s, Pictures & Music Downloads Juxta Pose on MySpace Music - Free Streaming MP3s, Pictures & Music Downloads Cheers |
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Tasmania
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Quote:
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