Yep, good choice. I done several subs with these drivers.
You might also want to look at the the new Exodus EX-Anarchy driver which uses an XBL motor.
i didnt buy the Driver for a HT Sub...but for music,for which it will be Perfectly Adequate.
Sorry, but I also have to rain on your parade and disagree.
A subwoofer is for reproducing the very low frequencies. Doesn't matter if it's music or theatre-those frequencies require a certain minimum SPL to even be audible; . If your sub can't output significant SPL in the low bass, it is useless and might as well not exist.
A 6.5" piston simply can't move much air, especially with a low Xmax. You can of course build this and probably hear a bit of thump thump, but what you hear will probably be upper midbass distortion harmonics. OK, maybe that's a little harsh, but unless you're driving a horn or maybe a bandpass, such an ordinary 6.5" is just not a SUBwoofer.
Before spending a lot of time for a mediocre result, do yourself a favor and research better drivers for your purpose.
Hi,
FYI,The Exodus 6.5" drivers looks to perform well if using a pair in a TH or a T-TQWT.
b
Attachments
OK Fine....Bass Module....whatever you want to call it....its Purpose was to extend the Bass of Small Satatlite Speakers...not Shake the House Down with Subsonic Notes.
the 6.5" Dahliquist Moved Enough Air to provide Reasonable Loudness in the Lower Frequiences...consider this was used in a Small Room.
and Dont Just look at X-Max....look at the Maximum Mechanical excursion of the cone.
good day.
From your comments it is obvious that you have never used the TB driver that is under discussion. There are numerous successful proven and well documented designs using this driver.
BTW a single one of these "no so ordinary 6.5" drivers" is capable of delivering in excess of 103db with a f3 of 25Hz using its 13mm (one way) linear xmax - no it is not a HT wall shaker but it does deliver the goods for what the OP is going to use it for
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Yes,and Unfortunately while installing it in an Enclosure my Screw Driver Slipped and Put a Nice Big Crack in the Cone.
Ouch! Well, just put a thin glue coat on it, then another thin coat. It shouldn't really affect the low frequencies.
im thinking of using the 6.5" Tangband for a Smaller Sub.
But i do have an 8" Version i ordered from PE.
that Driver Looks Good....especially for 45 Bucks....at least for now...it wont stay there for too much longer.
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I'm probably providing TMI and don't mean to confuse you but ---- If you have space for a 8" and want the best in class for ported have a look at the CSS Trio8, XBL motor as well, here is a link to the specs. It's a little more pricey than the TB neo 8 but outstrips all the TB 8"s in regard to linearity, xmax, and the ability to XO fairly high. ie - all the things I look for in a sub driver intended mainly for music listening
btw - did you order the Tang Band W8-740P 8" Subwoofer that is on sale right now ??
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No...I ordered the Tangband W8-1363...the Neodymium One.
i might Consider that CSS in a Later Project...but for now the TB Neo is more Bass than i need.
it also be nice if CSS Provided a bigger picture of that driver.
btw the 8" TB Neo will be Paired with a Cerwin Vega Plate Amp...i think its 250...but it could be 150 (ARPHU2003)
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Er, no, I was still on the 12 ohm Dahlquist. And looking afresh, my post could be read in a kind of snarky way, which was not my intention.
Sure, it's possible to get surprising bass with small drivers, and the TB looks more like a 7" (some nice stuff there, I'll have to look some more). I had some Celestion A100s and it was really surprising the nice lows which came out of a 5.5" in a ported cabinet.
So if you want a "bass module" as OP now puts it, sure. Or if you want to listen to acoustic jazz etc at moderately loud levels, sure. But to most folks I believe "subwoofer" conjures thoughts (or at least hopes) of really chest pounding deep bass, and cranking up helicopters or 1812 cannons or heavy metal. And for that task, a single 6.5" is simply strained even if it has a high mechanical excursion. Now multiple drivers, that's another story, especially if you can get them for $8 apiece
Yep, words and perception will get you in trouble every time
To me the general current "perception" of the word subwoofer for most seems to be the one note wonders of the car "sub" or the over emphasized LFE and mostly one note wonders of the commercial HT "sub".
People that are used to the previous examples of subs usually find a sub that provides transparent, effortless, uncolored and mostly distortion free LF extention down into the 20s and teens at resonable SPL levels(ie 105db) somewhat lacking and doesn't really meet "their" definition of a subwoofer
Yep, words and perception will get you in trouble every time
To me the general current "perception" of the word subwoofer for most seems to be the one note wonders of the car "sub" or the over emphasized LFE and mostly one note wonders of the commercial HT "sub".
People that are used to the previous examples of subs usually find a sub that provides transparent, effortless, uncolored and mostly distortion free LF extention down into the 20s and teens at resonable SPL levels(ie 105db) somewhat lacking and doesn't really meet "their" definition of a subwoofer
i Recently Transplanted my Tangband W8-1363SB into a Sony SA-WM75?...8" Subwoofer Enclosure...the Original Amp was Supplemented with a Cerwin Vega 150 Watt Plate Amp....the Improvement is Substantial!
I've found that most of the Sony self/powered, self/contained subs are highly underpowered and not able to achieve distortion free output at even reasonable levels. Sort of OK for HT use but very poor performance with music.....
Sounds like the "transplant" was a success !
The Subwoofer used to Sound Good....now it sounds Fantastic.
the other one was Loud with more midbass than bass.
now its loud with Deep Clear Bass.
so now the Sub will Chuff on Heavy or Deep Notes at high Volumes.
its not Noticeble though.
and Yeah the Sony Sub's do seem underpowered...
Prehaps a New Box too...the original Cheap Particle Board box might be too small...and besides.....it doesnt have enough Room to fit a Port that would handle the W8-1363SB's output without Chuffing.
The W8-1363SB moves a lot of air, so it make sense to ditch the Sony box and design something that will do justice to the TB driver and it's capabilities.
You could go either ported with some properly sized ports to kepp the port air velocity down or go with a couple of passive radiators and eliminate any possibly of port noise.
You could go either ported with some properly sized ports to kepp the port air velocity down or go with a couple of passive radiators and eliminate any possibly of port noise.
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