Go Back   Home > Forums > Loudspeakers > Subwoofers
Home Forums Rules Articles Store Gallery Blogs Register Donations FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 30th November 2009, 03:09 PM   #11
zobsky is offline zobsky  India
diyAudio Member
 
zobsky's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Dallas, Tx, USA
Quote:
Originally Posted by dolinux View Post
I finally got my camera. Here are pics of the assembled box. Testing with a Dayton 240w plate amp. The the sound level and range is impressive. I used 2x2" bracing in the vertical corners, and to make assembly faster.

I also built a scaled down version for a $30 12" PE buyout sub that I picked up, which is also impressive. I may start a new 'budget T-TQWT' thread for that one, <$100 for everything but the amp.

Thanks again bjorno!
Cool. Impressive compared to what? i.e. have you tried the drivers in other designs?

What's the freq. response like? Do you get a clean 20 Hz indoors?
__________________
"Any fool can know. The point is to understand" - Albert Einstein
  Reply With Quote
Old 2nd December 2009, 12:05 AM   #12
freddi is offline freddi  United States
diyAudio Member
 
freddi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
hi bjorno - how might you build a "modern" Karlson-style speaker using hornresp?
  Reply With Quote
Old 2nd December 2009, 09:23 PM   #13
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Dallas
Well my K15 with undersized 12" hole and oversized SigmaPro18" hiding behind seems
quite similar to what I see in this sub's photo. Mine worked much better after I had
opened the hole to the full size. Mind you though, I was only choking the front side
of the driver, not the whole front of the inverted horn mouth.
  Reply With Quote
Old 2nd December 2009, 09:33 PM   #14
zobsky is offline zobsky  India
diyAudio Member
 
zobsky's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Dallas, Tx, USA
Quote:
Originally Posted by kenpeter View Post
Well my K15 with undersized 12" hole and oversized SigmaPro18" hiding behind seems
quite similar to what I see in this sub's photo. Mine worked much better after I had
opened the hole to the full size. Mind you though, I was only choking the front side
of the driver, not the whole front of the inverted horn mouth.

Not quite. Your K15/18/12 had hardly any clearance between the baffle and the driver (more similar to the gawd awful ripole sub i built two weeks ago), whereas in this case, the opening is part of the horn terminus. In this case, if I remember the theory, the terminus openingcross sectional area = hornresp specified Sx (x = last segment), ... and the negative taper is necessary to achieve a lower freq. response.
__________________
"Any fool can know. The point is to understand" - Albert Einstein

Last edited by zobsky; 2nd December 2009 at 09:35 PM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 3rd December 2009, 05:18 PM   #15
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Dallas
Your ripole had completely different issues. I don't see any similarity.
Mine was choked in the focus of the cone, yours off to one side...

The acoustic short circuit around K15 shelf might be of about the
same as a ripole, but a huge difference how extra air gets swept
up in tapped horn and K effect and added to the wavefront that
radiates into the room.

Last edited by kenpeter; 3rd December 2009 at 05:29 PM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 4th December 2009, 05:38 AM   #16
freddi is offline freddi  United States
diyAudio Member
 
freddi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
what I'd like to know is what easy mod might be done to the simple one-fold inverse or positive taper tapped horn/pipe to mitigate their typical suckout

7.4 cubic foot inverse tapered pipe with 15" Dayton 295070 speaker vs 7.7 cubic foot K15 with Audio Nirvana Super10 - one trace has the mouth panel removed giving an opening larger than Sd - tuning and cutoff are a bit higher - for an experiment a Karlson slot might be used.
Click the image to open in full size.
Input impedance with 295070
Click the image to open in full size.
to keep a pipe looking like a Karlson, and give it a positive flare with somewhat higher cutoff in a given bulk perhaps "this"
Click the image to open in full size.

Last edited by freddi; 4th December 2009 at 05:43 AM.
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
B&amp;G NEO8 PLANAR TRANSDUCER crossed to two Dayton classic 8&quot;(DC200-8) nunayafb Planars & Exotics 28 13th April 2009 09:28 AM
Tapped Horn for 18" bass angeloitacare Subwoofers 14 28th March 2009 08:37 AM
MCM 55-1170 or Dayton classic 6.5"(295-305) ? percy Multi-Way 2 21st July 2007 01:27 AM
dayton 10" classic woofers for PA... nerd of nerds Multi-Way 13 29th May 2006 03:24 AM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 09:28 PM.

Page generated in 0.10078 seconds (72.26% PHP - 27.74% MySQL) with 11 queries

Copyright ©1999-2012 diyAudio