Hello, it's been a while.
I am thinking of building a sub to go with my mFonkens.
After some research, I would like to use this Drayton plate amp and possibly this Drayton 10" driver
What do the experts think of the choice? I've looked into European suppliers for plate amps, but even after shipping PE comes out cheaper, unless anyone knows a supplier I missed...
I have a mac, so I can't run any of the modelling apps out there, can someone suggest the correct cabinet size, ported or un-ported?
With the line level input/output of this sub-amp, can I add it between my passive pre-amp and diyParadise Charlize 2? Does anyone have any suggested projects I may have missed? I love building things, but the technicalities of cabinet design elude me, so I prefer to trust in the knowledge of others.
Thanks for the help,
David
I am thinking of building a sub to go with my mFonkens.
After some research, I would like to use this Drayton plate amp and possibly this Drayton 10" driver
What do the experts think of the choice? I've looked into European suppliers for plate amps, but even after shipping PE comes out cheaper, unless anyone knows a supplier I missed...
I have a mac, so I can't run any of the modelling apps out there, can someone suggest the correct cabinet size, ported or un-ported?
With the line level input/output of this sub-amp, can I add it between my passive pre-amp and diyParadise Charlize 2? Does anyone have any suggested projects I may have missed? I love building things, but the technicalities of cabinet design elude me, so I prefer to trust in the knowledge of others.
Thanks for the help,
David
Wow, those are beautiful!
Have you tried Parallels? I THINK it is a free Windows emulator. I am a Windows user myself, but I think a couple Mac-using friends said it was good.
I can gladly help you with the WinISD box calculations. First though, what are your contraints?
- What is the maximum size for an enclosure that you are willing to put up with?
- Ported subs are great for getting more low frequency extension, but you must be very careful about feeding them frequencies below the tuned one...over-excursion can happen (WinISD can estimate this, though).
- How low DO you want to go with frequency response (at what frequency do you want to be at -1dB?)?
- Would a maximum ripple of +/-1dB be acceptable (or 0.5, or 1.5) in the response?
- Do you plan to deliver 100W RMS to it at any point, or will you be staying below this (depends on the sensitivity of the other drivers)?
Have you tried Parallels? I THINK it is a free Windows emulator. I am a Windows user myself, but I think a couple Mac-using friends said it was good.
I can gladly help you with the WinISD box calculations. First though, what are your contraints?
- What is the maximum size for an enclosure that you are willing to put up with?
- Ported subs are great for getting more low frequency extension, but you must be very careful about feeding them frequencies below the tuned one...over-excursion can happen (WinISD can estimate this, though).
- How low DO you want to go with frequency response (at what frequency do you want to be at -1dB?)?
- Would a maximum ripple of +/-1dB be acceptable (or 0.5, or 1.5) in the response?
- Do you plan to deliver 100W RMS to it at any point, or will you be staying below this (depends on the sensitivity of the other drivers)?
depends how big a cab you can stand and how low you want to go; Unibox gives sealed 65L for an F3 of ~50Hz. The same cab ported & tuned to 25Hz will give an F3 of 37Hz.
For max flatness down to 24Hz, you'll need 150L !!! tuned to 25Hz
If that's too big I'd suggest looking at some 8" drivers, these will have lower Vas and hence more acceptible (to me) cabinet size
Can you run Micro$oft Excel on a Mac? if so, you can use Unibox...
For max flatness down to 24Hz, you'll need 150L !!! tuned to 25Hz
If that's too big I'd suggest looking at some 8" drivers, these will have lower Vas and hence more acceptible (to me) cabinet size
Can you run Micro$oft Excel on a Mac? if so, you can use Unibox...
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The mFonken was designed using software on a Mac (simulator in Classic thou)...
I would recommend using a woofer with more extended top than a dedicated subwoofer, it will give you a much better chance of getting good integration. I've seen quite a few mentions of Visatons from Europeans lately. Vifa, Peerless, SEAS, Monacor are also probably worth looking at.
For a sub amp, the hot deal are the surplus NHT plate amps that Jack Hidley is selling... http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1234996#post1234996 ... $35 each -- the master cartons have 2 in them. I bought 10 of them, They work well.
dave
I would recommend using a woofer with more extended top than a dedicated subwoofer, it will give you a much better chance of getting good integration. I've seen quite a few mentions of Visatons from Europeans lately. Vifa, Peerless, SEAS, Monacor are also probably worth looking at.
For a sub amp, the hot deal are the surplus NHT plate amps that Jack Hidley is selling... http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1234996#post1234996 ... $35 each -- the master cartons have 2 in them. I bought 10 of them, They work well.
dave
Excel was originally written for the Mac... It was in V3 before it appeared under Windows.
<rant>I am forced to use it, it is really a POC. If he doesn't already have it, not worth the entry $$$ just to run UniBox</rant>
Does UniBox run under Open Office (available for Mac as well as NeoOffice which is a version of OpenOffice with more Mac UI added)
I should try UniBox in Numbers... (part of iWorks, really good value for $$$)
dave
Both Parallels and VMWare Fusion run ~$80 USD. Fusion is the better product. They are not emulators. They are Virtual Machines. An Intel Mac is required to run them. Any Intel Mac runs Windows natively using Boot Camp. A number of PC magazines have rated the Mac with Boot Camp as the best Windows machines available. Running Windows under Fusion is even slicker.
dave
Dave, I like the sound of a mid-bass box with more coverage than just a sub-bass. Last night I found a German website selling loads of excellent drivers, but the plate amps are still a little expensive. Here it is, if you can ignore the frighteningly bad layout, they have a lot of nice equipment. They have Visatron drivers here, I was thinking of the WS20E or W200S.
Can you direct me to a similar mid-bass project, or suggest a good (not too expensive) driver? I think I'm going to go with the PE amp, as it has line level out as well as in.
Regrading cab sizes, I would like to keep it compact, below 35x35x35 (14"x14"x14") anyway. It's mostly for music, with some film watching, so I would like to keep the bass tight rather than huge or super low.
David
Can you direct me to a similar mid-bass project, or suggest a good (not too expensive) driver? I think I'm going to go with the PE amp, as it has line level out as well as in.
Regrading cab sizes, I would like to keep it compact, below 35x35x35 (14"x14"x14") anyway. It's mostly for music, with some film watching, so I would like to keep the bass tight rather than huge or super low.
David
Hello, it's been a while.
I am thinking of building a sub to go with my mFonkens.
After some research, I would like to use this Drayton plate amp and possibly this Drayton 10" driver
David
I made a sub using that plate amp but using the neo 8" Tang-Band woofer also available at P-E. It's a rather small box and with an EBS alignment should be flat to 32 Hz.
Consider one of these:
http://www.reckhorn.com/index.php?ln=en&prod=f1
The XO in those plate amps is better than nothing, but it still isn't very nice. This unit sounds much better than the xo in the plate amp I have. And it would let you use a full range amp that you might have laying around somewhere.
I bought one of these a while back and have been pretty happy with it. I have dreams of rolling the opamps in it at some point...
http://www.reckhorn.com/index.php?ln=en&prod=f1
The XO in those plate amps is better than nothing, but it still isn't very nice. This unit sounds much better than the xo in the plate amp I have. And it would let you use a full range amp that you might have laying around somewhere.
I bought one of these a while back and have been pretty happy with it. I have dreams of rolling the opamps in it at some point...
15 litres Q = 0.7 F3 = 70Hz, F10 = 40 Hz
24 litres Q = 0.58 F3 = 75 Hz, F10 = 36 Hz
dave
You may want to check out the Dayton SD215-88. It has similar performance as the SD270, costs less and has a smaller Vas so the resulting box size is much smaller, but F3 remains about the same for both vented and sealed alignments. I used the Tang Band W8-1363SB. I an EBS alignment (17 l, tuned to 30 Hz) it goes pretty low. I am very happy with the results.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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OK. I think I figured out how to do the link thingy now.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The links in post 14 are to web pages, so they won't display. Link to the actual picture indicates they don't allow deep linking?
Maybe you should just attach the pictures to the diyA database.
dave
Edit... 1st round all i saw was a URL, now that i edited the post i can see the picture :shrug:
Maybe you should just attach the pictures to the diyA database.
dave
Edit... 1st round all i saw was a URL, now that i edited the post i can see the picture :shrug:
If i want them to appear in a post i put them on my web space on mac.com (which i pay for since Apple has really big pipes), shaw.ca (my isp), or my personal web server (mostly used for html, usually links to pictures on mac.com). If i have no use for the picture other than diyA i attach it to the diyA database.
A lot of the picture sites make their money from advertising or selling prints so they want you to go to their website to see the pictures.
A lot of the picture sites make their money from advertising or selling prints so they want you to go to their website to see the pictures.
http://www.visaton.de/de/bauvorschlaege/subwoofer/sub_w2039/bauanleitung.html
Here's one for you st_eloi
Here's one for you st_eloi
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