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#1 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2005
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Could this be a way to do a huge woofer with very low Fs
Drawing shows a huge membrane coupled to one or multiple woofers Last edited by tinitus; 1st September 2009 at 12:03 AM. |
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#2 |
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Custom Title
diyAudio Member
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Long version? REALLY nope.
You'd get a ton of rocking mode distortion from the extended pivot point, and the suspension isn't meant for the type of stress you'd be placing on it. Better to get woofers more purpose designed for your app. What's wrong with a few Acoustic Elegance IB15s?
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I write for www.enjoythemusic.com in the DIY section. You may find yourself getting a preview of a project in-progress. Be warned! |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
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I'd make an H-frame to lower the point where the bass rolls off so you need less EQ. Have you modeled it in 'the edge'?
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#4 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2005
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Well, its just an idea that suddenly popped up in my head
Drawing was quickly done, and very incomplete, sorry I hope this one shows better Menbrane is suspended by threads Woofers are mounted in supporting frame |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
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What is this membrane you speak of?
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Sydney
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Tinitus, have a look at this thread: PIEZO NXT type panel. They're going full range there, but I'm thinking like you, just try it for the bass. some day, I'm thinking of filling the cones of some old drivers with polystyrene foam and coupling then to a large sheet of something, just to see what happens :-)
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‘today… there lives alongside the twentieth century the tenth or thirteenth. A hundred million people use electricity and still believe in the magic power of signs and exorcisms” Trotsky |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
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I have similar idea to make huge dipole sub.
get pro woofer with strong motor, remove its cone, leave spider and coil in place. then build and attach your own cone and frame. then you'll have subwoofer bigger than 31" fostex for much less money. flat panel cone is a bad idea, it will resonate way too much. I actually plan to make deep profile, corrugated cone. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2005
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Thanks for the valuable input
You nailed down some of the obvious benefits Update "Cone" might be a 1/2" thick polystyrene sheet, about a square meter No thread surround, but instead use the flexibility of the polystyrene Corners are cut away to increase flexibility Which woofer? I dont expect this to be a high power speaker I want a refined sub to be used solely at "normal" SPL But stilll need a woofer driver with a strong motor and fairly good Xmax, if this thing goes really deep Beyma SM212 might work, and cost is avarage around 100EUR Or maybe even a carfi woofer would work fine |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Taiwan
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That 'felt' surround can be noisy I guess, no? I like the one with thread suspension better
And the motor should be secured in some way, so I think the skectch by MisterTwister make more sense to me. As to the membrance, how about honeycomb cardboard? Quite light and rigid related to given area. If more than one motors can be used, then it can be driven more evenly. |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Melbourne, Australia
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I can see quite a few problems with this. Firstly, two motors driving one cone seems like asking for trouble! Also having no baffle at all makes is horrendously efficient, so you are working uphill negating your gains.
I think you'd be better off starting with some large 15" drivers with a powerful magnet and low Qts. Now remove the surround and simply extend the cone so that it's bigger. Cones are better because they combine stiffness and low mass. Any flat panel will be inferior. So you might turn that 15" driver into a 21" and perhaps use a few of them. Now put it in a H frame to get the best efficiency you can from a dipole.
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