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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
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Hi all,
I'm a new member from silicon valley and looking to tap the considerable expertise on this forum. I want to build a sonotube subwoofer that will sit in a corner of a room approximately 14X14 by 10ft. I am size constrained so looking to use a 12 inch subwoofer in a 14 inch sonotube with a 24 inch height. I guess this limits me to about 2 cu. ft. I listen primarily to classical music and looking to get down to a minimum 32 Hz for a low organ pipe. I'm not looking to rattle any windows. This will be to augment my bookshelf speakers "Monitor RS1 Silver" which are supposed to get down to 43 Hz - 3 db. Will also need a plate amp of moderate output. Any suggestions, speakerwise or enclosure considerations or ?, would be most appreciated. hstu |
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#2 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
I refreshed an old design suggestion using the Dayton RSS315HF-04 12 " driver modeled with MJK:s TQWT program I think could suite you:See picture 1(3). If you feel more challenged when doing more woodworking, see the T-TQWT (tapped quarter wave tube) that can be folded like in the picture 2(3) and the simulation in picture 3(3). b 1(3) |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
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2(3)
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
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3(3)
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
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Hi there: Bjorno's post #2 & 3 for a tapped horn would be an excelent up to date choice, biamped and electronically crossed over to the main speakers in the 60 to 70hz range. However if you really want to use a sono sub, the 12-inch diameter by 24 inch long looks like this: F3=29.5hz, Fb=25hz, Ripple=1.55, Pd=580 watts for 112db. (vent=3.5"d x 20"L)
better choices would be 14-inch diameter x30": Fs=23, Fb=23, Ripple=0.93, Pd=228watts for 108db, (vent= 4"d x 24"L) or a 14-inch diameter x 36"L: Fs=22, Fb=22, Ripple=0.97, Pd=165watts for 106db (vent 5"d x 31.4L) Hope you get to building, and report listining experience and acoustic measurements if possible. regards, Michael |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
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Hi bjorno,
Thanks for the suggestions. I am constrained to using a sonotube for the corner so the folded design may not work. Your tube design looks interesting. What you have done, however, is to peak my interest in trying to understand the T/S parameters and the enclosure designs that you sent. I am now delaying "must do" chores around the house and just studying the subject which is fairly new to me. I will let you know my next step. Thanks again. hstu |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2006
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Download a copy of the free program WinISD. Punch in the parameters for a driver that interests you and see what it suggests for a box.
The Dayton RSS series of subs from Parts Express are a good start. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
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Hi Michael,
Are your predicted measurements based on output from WinISD and the Dayton driver? I have never used the program but should try it. I am constrained to using a sonotube and a height of 24" (allowing for max 2" legs for downward firing sub). Aesthecally and home harmonywise would suggest a 14" diameter but I could stretch it to 16" if it would make a significant difference. However, won't my room measurements (14'X14'X10') put a practical limit on low frequency response? I don't need a high SPL, just a good frequency balance. Driver options are open. Thanks for the suggestions. By the way, what is Ripple and what is it's significance? Looked it up but didn't inderstand the significance? stu |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
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Hi there: You can read-up on ripple in vented enclosures at wikibooks.org, Acoustics/Bass-reflex Enclosure Design, sections numbered 7 and 8, "Chebyshev Alignment". In answer to your question, I m not using Winisd program, although many others have reported good results with it. I am using LinearX-Leap.7 program for boxes and Hornresp for Th's. Yes, I used the T/S parameters for the Dayton driver:RSS315-12inch as published in "Parts Express Catalog".
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
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Hi Michael,
Thanks for the response. I have just downloaded WinISD and will see what happens. hstu |
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