designing a sub and fullrange box for several speakers...

Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.
Hey Guys I was about to start designing a box and as you guys know from reading my other posts on here i dont really know alot as to how to do this stuff. I was wondering if you guys could help me out...

So heres what i have availiable for my box
- 1 sheet 1/2 inch plywood G 1 S
- 2 12 inch insignia 250 watt 8 ohm subs
- 1 10 inch precision accoustics 150 watt 8 ohm sub
-2 4? inch 250 watt mids
-4 1 way 6x9 150 watt 4 ohm spkrs
-1 150 watt good for 8 or 4 ohm plate sub amp
-1 home theatre amp/ reciever 5 spkr outs 100 watts each and one sub out
-some scraps of 3/4 inch oak plywood from a previous build that i am reworking for this project.
-8 feet of 4 inch pvc pipe i would like to use as ports
I would like to set this thing up for high SPL

Any ideas? Any designs that i could use for this project?
thanks... I would really like to start working on this project within a couple hours.
P.S. I know my punctuation is not the best but i am only 17 and im a high school drop-out..:smash:
 
So after a little more thought to this project i was thinking of building a sealed box that is 1.5 - 2 feet wide 3-4 feet tall and about 1.5-2 feet deep with the 3 subs in the front the 4 6x9s 2 on each side and the 2 other mids one on each side as well. I am not sold on whether to build it sealed or ported because all i have for port material is the 4 inch pvc pipe. any input muchly appreciated. mulletdude.
 
and after a little more thought i thought id build this...
www.decware.com/newsite/wo32.htm
and so far ive got most of the peices cut im just waiting on the battery for my saw to charge so i can cut glue and screw the rest of it...

i am very sorry about my bad punctuation and capitalization but most of the typing i do i hurry through cuz im really busy diy'ing and working. so i apologize again.
mulletdude
 
So without any input from you guys.... thanks....
I built the Wicked one aka WO32 on the decware website.. the only modifications i made to it was i used 12 inch subs instead of 10 inch subs... i measured its respones and it was pretty flat, but i cant for the life of me get very much volume out of it even with my amp at full volume. any suggestions? or are you guys just gonna say build a sealed/ bandpass/ported/TL/ whatever enclosure. i dont have alot of materials and most of what i had went into building the wicked one that aint that wicked...
MulletDude:hot: :smash:
 
88.7 db sensitivity per each insignia,
fs 36 hz
Qts .53 response 36 to 2kHz
those are about the only specs i have and the only ones ive been able to find too.
Like i found it really messed up when there was so much hype about the wicked one 32 on the decware site that i thought... well i could duplicate that from that picture on the site.. i did duplicate it but not the spl. the only thing i changed was the size of driver and the height of the box and thats it. so i was really surprised that it performed so poorly. it was almost a flat response but it was so dang quiet that i hardly knew the thing was there. anyways... i found the recommended enclosure size for the 2 insignia subs and all i did was added it together and made a box with that volume and im using a glass top to make it cool with that bit of geek cred. still gotta find a way to mount the glass but its working so far just tied down with rope.. it does rattle a bit but i can get over that easily and also theres alot of chuffing from the fact that the glass isnt sealed to the box but i willl get around that soon ... somehow.. any ways any more input would be greatly appreciated.
mulletdude.
 
Probably just not dampened well enough. Dampening causes the reverse reverberation counterwaves to vectorize, which counters the inductance field effect that surrounds most woofer voice coils. This results in raised sensitivity and greater dynamic function spread.

Damping materials commonly used are aircraft-grade open-cell polyethamphetamine foam, corrugated cardboard, or dirty socks (the dirty is important, as the oils from human feet raise the desity quotient, causing a reduction in the speed of sound within the fabric). If none of the above are available, an excellent alternative I've found is a common housecat, as pictured here:

151451997_6b357c5052.jpg
 
sorry about the double post but i couldn't find the edit button...
okay so i have the subwoofer built now all i need to build all the fullrange speaker... any ideas?
they each have to take 100 watts and have to be relatively small because im using a bunch of space with the subwoofer and i would like to have the fullrange speakers mounted on the wall because i have no space to put them on anything.
EDIT*
i found the edit button this time it was only a report button on the last one... odd

anyways to the above poster who asked x-over frequency i trued every frequeny i had availiable from 50Hz to 150Hz in 5 Hz steps
 
Ok so here's my new line of thought...
I built a box for my subs(insignia ones) i built it with the following internal dimensions
21.25 x 15.5 x 15.25 inches
i have 2 subs in it with recommended enclosure size of 48.6 liters each so i added it together and got 97.2 liters
I have the drivers one in each end in a push pull configuration.
So heres my question:
Would it be advisable to put a port in the box?
and
would it be more efficient to put the drivers in a push/push configuration?
and if so what would the port length be at 4 inch pvc piping
.
Mulletdude
 
We need a "Vas" spec to model the design.

I calculate your enclosure to be 82liters and then you'll subtract the volume of the speaker(s). Even so this is a reasonably sized box. Braced I hope:)

When you say push-pull do you mean isobarik? the speakers bolt together with the baffle in the middle, wired out-of-phase? (but that's not one in each end).
 
umm well the specs i have for the speaker do not have Vas.
and also the way i have them set up is one in each end of the box with the magnets facing outwards.
the only specs i have for the speakers are as follows
Fs 36Hz
Qts o.53
size 12 inch...
Ipedance 8 ohm
singel vc
sensitivity 88.7 db
power ha ndling continuous 200 watts peak 400 watts
and thats about it.
EDIT i dont believe i need bracing because i am using half inch plywood laminated to be 1 inch thick.
i will post a picture soon i just need to eat and grab the camera...
 
mulletdude said:
would it be more efficient to put the drivers in a push/push configuration?
and if so what would the port length be at 4 inch pvc piping .
Mulletdude [/B]
Remember adding the second driver adds like 6 db , but when you mount them isobaric you only gain 4 db .
Sound wise 2 seperate speakers in 2 boxes will put a little more .
BUT ......
if you mount them isobaric (thats cone facing cone) you gain one thing the speaker is fooled into thinking the cabinet is twice the size.
So if the speaker company claims that speaker will go great in a 3 cubic foot box it will go great in a 1.5 cubic isobaric cabinet .
I need 170 watts per speaker to drive it 100% .
But if you try and port this setup you will never get it sounding good , any port specifications will NOT appley to a isobaric .
I like your wicked box you built but I am not surprised it was soo quiet. How big was each sealed box for your speaker ?
 
mulletdude said:
[B still gotta find a way to mount the glass but its working so far just tied down with rope.. it does rattle a bit but i can get over that easily and also theres alot of chuffing from the fact that the glass isnt sealed to the box but i willl get around that soon ... somehow.. any ways any more input would be greatly appreciated.
mulletdude. [/B]

The easiest and best way to mount the glass is with a big bead of clear silicone (thats how they bond fish tanks) .
But make sure the other side is a removable , I use that foam bought in rolls.
Besides the sound quality loss from a leak the vibration eats up any sub frequencies coming out .
AND MAKE SURE YOU BOND THE GLASS WITHOUT THE DRIVERS IN THE CABINET !!!!!!!!!!!!!
The fumes can eat the surrounds on your driver .
 
tresch said:
Probably just not dampened well enough. Dampening causes the reverse reverberation counterwaves to vectorize, which counters the inductance field effect that surrounds most woofer voice coils. This results in raised sensitivity and greater dynamic function spread.

Damping materials commonly used are aircraft-grade open-cell polyethamphetamine foam, corrugated cardboard, or dirty socks (the dirty is important, as the oils from human feet raise the desity quotient, causing a reduction in the speed of sound within the fabric). If none of the above are available, an excellent alternative I've found is a common housecat, as pictured here:

151451997_6b357c5052.jpg


I like your post , I wish I could forward it !!
 
Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.