designing a sub and fullrange box for several speakers...

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whats your plan?
You still need to build a cabinet around a driver(or both) , if you close the top you basically are sharing the cabinet with both drivers, but that cabinet is not big enough for 2 drivers,
I would recomend building this into a isobaric, what you would have to do is mount both drivers on 1 side (both speaker cones facing each other) I use long bolts with sheetmetal tabs on them , so when you tighten one it tightens the other .
You need to wire one driver out of phase (or they will cancell each other)
What you will gain is the woofer is fooled to beleive the cabinet is twice the size .
 

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mulletdude said:
ok here it is now its small enough to attach.

Those drivers are mounted Push Push. They should be wired the same as each other so when one cone moves outwards so does the other. The positive lead of each channel should attact to the positve terminal of each driver. If the displacement of the box is 2x what one driver needs then it should work fine.

If the drivers are wired opposite each other, positive lead to the positive on one driver and positive lead to the negative on the other then there will be cancellation and SPL will suffer.
 
so if they are push/push they are both firing towards each other ?
if so where is the cabinet for the drivers ?
I guess you are firing the cones towards the magnets (backwards from normal) .
So you are setup with a double size box with 2 drivers ?
As far as spl it matters on 2 things ..
How much amp you got for it and what the speaker likes .
You could build 2 ported boxes (dont try and combine the internal)
just put a divider and a port in each chamber .
If you were to build one like mine you could use a smaller box .
But 2 drivers set up where you can see both cones will give you more spl .
Is this going in a car ?
 
mulletdude said:
ok what makes you think it is not big enough for both drivers like this... i built it 2 times the size of one drivers recomended enclosure size...
so what you want me to do is make this isobarik and have it look gotty because both drivers are on the same side.


The cabinet looked small (I guess it was a illusion)
On a isoberic you ONLY see one driver , the other one is next to it
(clamshell design) if your cabinet was a isobaric you could have 4 drivers running .
What is your cubic feet inside your cabinet ?
 
901Fixer said:


Those drivers are mounted Push Push. They should be wired the same as each other so when one cone moves outwards so does the other. The positive lead of each channel should attact to the positve terminal of each driver. If the displacement of the box is 2x what one driver needs then it should work fine.

If the drivers are wired opposite each other, positive lead to the positive on one driver and positive lead to the negative on the other then there will be cancellation and SPL will suffer.


I was wondering ..
My iso is wired one amp side per woofer , but have you ever tried to series the woofers and run one amp lead to the combo ?
If so does it sound good (as long as the amp is strong enough) ???
 
mulletdude said:
the amp i currently have is only 100 watts per channel so it would make more sence doing it theyt way i am.

If you turn the sub up and the speakers dont sound like they are bottoming out you may not have enough amp .
It matters how powerfull the amp is , 100 watts per 12 is not really enough (for me) .
I am running a kicker dx350 (350 watt class D) into a kicker L5 its not really enough power (that 12" wants a lot of power)
so I ported the box I get 120 db sub in my truck now .
If it was sealed It would be a lot less .
Even if I ran 2 of these sealed it may not put out the spl as 1 ported 12" ..
But a home amp is differant ,especially a good one ..
 
a lot of car subs are great , I use a pair of mtx 5500's for my iso .
Long throw good power handling , great deal !
I bought them used on Ebay for $30 each (with warrenty)
I was going to use a car amp for home but the high power 117v to 12v costs more than a used ebay amp .
I just got a good deal on a new amp from parts express (sa240)
240 watts at 4 ohms for $109 with free shipping, that may not be enough power for your subs , but they do make bigger stuff .
 
amp

mulletdude said:
i know i dont have enough amp for these speakers.. they are car subs and i want to use them in my home cuz somethimes they are better... i have the car amplifier for the subs but i need a way to power it because it needs 12 volts.

I read your first post on this , the insignia is 8 ohms each , you could parallel them down to 4 ohms and use the partsexpress sa-240 to run it that is a good amount (120 watts per driver) $109 new .
or you could try the bash 300 (150 watts per 12")
just make sure your box is plenty big .
 
The sensitivity of your drivers is rather low at 88.7db but 100 watts to each driver is plenty in a sealed box and should be very audible. How big is the room? Is it not loud enough to your liking or do others, like your mom, think it should be louder? Make sure any gain is turned up or if the reciever has a control feature for the sub it may be turned way down.

The picture shows 5 sides of the box, you do have a top on this box don't you so it is sealed up? You can also try reversing the wiring on one of the drivers to see if that changes anything. When toubleshooting only change one thing at a time and recheck.
 
well currently i am using this box upside down so that the top in the picture is against my carpet floor. in essence making it a floor coupled sealed box right? now i just got my hands on a pair of JBK 2225H 15 inch subs should i use these instead? if so i will probably have to rebuild my box eh? also the specs are here... http://www.jblpro.com/pub/obsolete/2225hj.pdf
and the look pretty good except for the 5mm xMax.
Should i have left these alone?
EDIT
901 Fixer the box that i was saying about that wasn't very loud was the wicked one box that i built and this sealed box is plenty loud but i want more SPL from it cuz loud is never loud enough if you know what i mean.
EDIT EDIT
my room is about 22 feet by 11 foot 1 inch with a 2 foot 11 by 6 foot 4 little hallway in the one corner... plus the stairs plus it has a doorway with no door to another room
 
ok so i just got my hands on the drivers and the ones specs are the above link and the others specs are here. http://www.jblpro.com/pages/pub/components/2226.pdf
there is one of each 2225h and 2226h. i would like to put them isobarik in the box i have above with the 2 12 inch subs isobarik on the other side... would i still have to increase the enclosure size if i did it that way. the 15's are each rated for an enclosure of 3 cubic feet to 10 cubic feet. so i dont know what to do exactly
 
mulletdude said:
ok so i just got my hands on the drivers and the ones specs are the above link and the others specs are here. http://www.jblpro.com/pages/pub/components/2226.pdf
there is one of each 2225h and 2226h. i would like to put them isobarik in the box i have above with the 2 12 inch subs isobarik on the other side... would i still have to increase the enclosure size if i did it that way. the 15's are each rated for an enclosure of 3 cubic feet to 10 cubic feet. so i dont know what to do exactly

a friend of mine built a radical box for a pair of these , it was a ported isobaric !
He spent a LOT of time tuning it , he built it for home theatre , I will write him for the box and port specs he used .
Also I think he only needed 100 watts per 15" to shake the earth .
Those are very effeciant drivers .
LMK if you want that info !
 
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