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#181 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Goderich
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I have a fair understand of horns, and a better understanding of Car audio. That said, I've seen(heard) rear 6X9s capable of over 120dB on a Term Lab(the standard mic for car audio). They were amped of course, at about 50Wrms each.
And I really doubt there is any acoustic impedance matching being done by a box that small, at least not at sub frequencies. You cannot compare your model of what I suggested to your results. Apples to Oranges. To make it more fair, either measure them both and compare them, or develop an accurate half space model for both and compare them. 2cuft is way too big for a pair of those sealed anyways... Either way keep up the good work Quote:
EDIT And if that graph is in half space, in my experience with hatchbacks, you'll get roughly a 12dB/octave gain from 60Hz down, and a static 9-12dB gain across the board. So if that graph is of it's half space response, then the sealed box could very well be louder in that hatch. Try it ![]() Also those two drivers are tapped at different lengths on the horn..."If you ever tried playing a trumpet or some other brass instrument " with two mouthpieces at different entries into the horn path? Nope haven't tried that one...But playing Brass and Woodwinds with traditional mouthpieces, yes I've done that. |
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#182 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
Your right 2 cubes is big. But it gives a decent low end. and the graph is for illustrative purposes. Not a serious closed box design to optimize size. No mater how you change the box you can't get a lot louder. Whereas the horn gives you an extra 8db of gain. Go figure the power return on that. If you start SPL at say 10 watts you need 10 * 2 = 3db (20Watts) + 20 * 2 = (40Watts) + 40 * 2 = 80 watts. It is an illustration of what gain from a properly designed box can offer. The output of 80 watts power for an input of 10 watts. Not to bad. In a 1/8th space the graph would go up by 3 db overall. You will gain some loading in the low end as you state. You do know something about car audio! The point of the horn design is to get the most bang for the buck. There is no free lunch. Hi efficiency means narrow bandwidth. Therefore you can get 108db/watt in a car environment or 1/8th space. But you only get usable output from 35 to 140 hz. Two octaves. Those two octaves are where most bass music exists and that's why it was designed this way. It is also a tiny box. Again part of the design goals. I have fully horn loaded designs that are a fairbit bigger and even more efficient. But this is not the pupose of this thread. The impedance matching is evident in the change of Fs and the second impedance rise. You get the low end resonance of the horn and the upper resonance of the horn caused by the driver at the second tap point. I didn't post those graphs but if you know your horn design you will understand this concept. The driver out of the horn measurement was shown and the driver in the horn was shown. As was a detailed 5hz increment SPL measurement. Without any smoothing or marketing crap. There is nothing to hide behind smoke and mirrors. This really works and runs well of my head unit. No amp. Another reason for wanting high efficiency. Cons? The drivers are not cheap. But they perform very well. If you want to pour in the power you have already quoted the max SPL. There have been a couple of cheaper alternatives posted. They do compromise the design in terms of output. But they are considerably cheaper. If you want to try it go ahead. Otherwise thankyou for your encouragement. Mark
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Mark |
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#183 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Goderich
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The thing is, a car is Not eighth space. Again, instead so speculating that your so called horn is more efficient than the sealed box, test it out. Prove me wrong. Preferably use a .5cuft box with the two drivers to get a Q of .7. It's not that much wood, or time to build it.
I've looked at your measured impedance graph, all I see is a 6th order bandpass. Not really any horn action going on. We need some response graphs in half space of your horn, to compare with the Hornresp response, I bet they are nothing alike. Then you could compare it fairly with other designs. |
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#184 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Wellington
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Mark,
First, an apology: I thought you used 3/4" HDF, but you used 5/8". You have a picture in post #31 with a ruler showing the thickness, and you also mentioned the thickness in post # 72. As well as "measure twice, cut once" I also need to "read twice, post once". Second, I have managed to draw a plan of the box that matches your photos. Lots of orthographic correction, printing and measuring... Armed with the measurements off the plan, I have modeled both your original Hornresp design, and the "as built" box, in Akabak. The original design model results match closely between Hornresp and Akabak. I would expect this, because Hornresp can export a design suitable for importing in Akabak, but it was a good sanity check. (Note that Hornresp will not export an Akabak model of this design because Hornresp models converging horn sections differently than Akabak.) The "as built" model, however, produces results very different than the design model. The peak you noticed when measuring in your car is there too. It appears that the compromises you had to make (folds, flat panels, non-coincident drivers etc) have had their effect. None of which is news, of course, and not intended as criticism of you. I emphasise that I would not be able to do better under the same constraints. All kudos to you for building it, we can model until we die but that is no substitute for making sawdust and seeing how it works in the real world. I look forward to your experiences with the new 2x DX7 box, it looks as if it will require fewer compromises. I've learned a lot from this thread already, I hope to learn much more in future. It spurred me to research widely, and I even found a technique for cheaply and easily producing rectangular cross section horns with curved sections, which would have eased your design constraints. I'll post it in a new thread and post a pointer to it. Regards... |
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#185 | ||
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diyAudio Member
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You sure went through a great deal of work. Probably more than me even! You have uncovered the difference between a simulation and a prototype. As measured in post #102 by Adam ( Binary110) and his cousin: Quote:
But in your defense Don the design is not totally faithful to the proper layout. The last three that I did have been almost exact replicas. But they are larger as you alluded to. A box this small is not easy to create. But it could be tweeked a bit to match almost precisely. Hindsight is always 20/20. I redid the design using conic paths only and it makes it much easier to work with. In a horn that handles only bass there is no real life benefit to using curves. There are only benefits up and above 350hz. Not a hard and fast rule but it has proven true for the most part. Now you have me interested in whether or not you drew the design as I have. I found the original full scale template. So other than the 1/8th inch difference on the thickness of the material it is the original layout. It is probably a fair statement that this design has been one of the few thoroughly measured and reviewed horns in recent memory. And a few gents have been there to push things in the right direction despite my being a bit naieve on the software end at times. GM and Bjorno are owed a debt of thanks and Don you are the only person I know of who took the time to do some real thinking. Good on you man! Mark P.S. Looking forward to your thread Don
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Mark |
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#186 | ||||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Wellington
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#187 |
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diyAudio Member
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Hi Don
It really is a strange thing to listen to such a small box produce bass. I modeled it and thought exactly the same thing. It can't work right? But then the urge to give it a shot won out. It is not really a horn in some ways. But in a confined space it behaves as modeled. Go figure. And it sounds good to boot! I encourage people to give it a try you may be surprised. And as shown there is an entry level version possible. Mark
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Mark |
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#188 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Wellington
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Okay, here we go.
First, the picture of the box plan, as I measured from your plan and your photographs. I settled on about 11/16 (17 mm) as the panel thickness - your photo with the ruler showed 0.68 inches. The 5/8" HDF appears to have a laiminate surface which would account for the difference. Using 17 mm, everything fell into place. I know it seems pedantic to be worrying about millimetres at these wavelengths, but they do add up by the time you get to the throat of the last sections. |
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#189 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Wellington
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Next, the "horn plan", in other words the horn laid out straight, Hornresp schematic style:
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#190 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Wellington
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Now, here are the SPL plots from your original Hornresp model and the corresponding Akabak model. Note the similarity.
Also, here is the Akabak script corresponding to your original model. |---------------------------- Def_Driver 'CSS SDX7' SD=128cm2 |Piston fs=34Hz Mms=21.9g Qms=2.2 Qes=0.41 Re=6.4ohm Le=0.75mH ExpoLe=0.618 System 'Unhorn As Designed' Driver 'D1' Def='CSS SDX7' Node=1=0=11=13 Driver 'D2' Def='CSS SDX7' Node=1=0=11=13 Waveguide 'W1' Node=10=11 STh=85cm2 SMo=556.21cm2 Len=24.2cm T=1 Waveguide 'W2' Node=12=11 STh=21cm2 SMo=556.21cm2 Len=42.8cm T=1 Waveguide 'W3' Node=12=13 STh=21cm2 SMo=302.28cm2 Len=16.4cm Conical Horn 'H4' Node=13 STh=302.28cm2 SMo=305cm2 Len=0.1cm Conical |---------------------------------------- |
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