Post #179
Hi Samuel Jayaraj,
I took my drawing of Don's LAB12 TH design, and stretched it into a single fold, then I chopped it off to 96", and readjusted the parts to fit with a single taper. This should get you started.
Regards,
Hi Samuel Jayaraj,
I took my drawing of Don's LAB12 TH design, and stretched it into a single fold, then I chopped it off to 96", and readjusted the parts to fit with a single taper. This should get you started.
Regards,
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Thank you very much Oliver for taking time off and putting in the extra effort to do the sims , drawings and sheet cuts. So this will take 2 sheets and will still require the PE Inductor. -3db may be around 23Hz but this also seems to take the max SPL up by a couple of decibels. Any comments? Thank you, once again.
It also looks like the single fold has a wider passband and flatter frequency response.
.
Although I suspect that allot of the "clutter" and wild swings in frequency response that Hrsp. shows (in the SPL graphs) in reality get damped out either mechanically or by damping material physically added to the transmission line.
.
Single fold shown in bold, multiple fold shown in backround, both @ 100W (20.71 V) and 1.0 Pi
Dave
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Hi again,
Generally, stuffing does not seem to be necessary, but if you use it keep it light. See: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/134369-dual-8-tapped-horn-th-spud-5.html for additional information.
I added a note on stuffing to the drawing.
Regards,
Generally, stuffing does not seem to be necessary, but if you use it keep it light. See: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/134369-dual-8-tapped-horn-th-spud-5.html for additional information.
I added a note on stuffing to the drawing.
Regards,
Hi DrDyna,
Just for the record - the comment of mine quoted in your post #184 is partially incorrect
.
Please see my post http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/143714-lab12-tapped-horn-15.html#post3148959 and the subsequent further clarifying explanations to AndrewT.
Kind regards,
David
Just for the record - the comment of mine quoted in your post #184 is partially incorrect
.Please see my post http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/143714-lab12-tapped-horn-15.html#post3148959 and the subsequent further clarifying explanations to AndrewT.
Kind regards,
David
David - Your software has made this forum a lot of fun. Thanks for all the hard work and encouragement you have provided.
Everybody - This is an old design, with the SIM by MaVo. It was the first design to go below 20 Hz, and it works well for Home Theater.
For those who want to move the mouth, I suggest this:
Everybody - This is an old design, with the SIM by MaVo. It was the first design to go below 20 Hz, and it works well for Home Theater.
For those who want to move the mouth, I suggest this:
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Don,
I'm fairly new to the DIY speaker / subwoofer thing. If I move the mouth as you suggest, it will fire directly into a couch in the placement I am thinking of using. Is there not enough area to move the mouth straight out? Is firing into a couch ok?
I'll be using this 90% HT and 10% music. I notice you said 300w for music would be fine but only 100w for sine waves. Would 100w be enough for reasonable listening levels in a HT setting?
And lastly, I notice you say this is an old design. By that do you mean one should look for something more "latest and greatest?" The size and budget for this are about perfect for what I'm intending, but if there's a better fit...
I apologize for the newbie questions, I'm just trying to wrap my head around this.
I'm fairly new to the DIY speaker / subwoofer thing. If I move the mouth as you suggest, it will fire directly into a couch in the placement I am thinking of using. Is there not enough area to move the mouth straight out? Is firing into a couch ok?
I'll be using this 90% HT and 10% music. I notice you said 300w for music would be fine but only 100w for sine waves. Would 100w be enough for reasonable listening levels in a HT setting?
And lastly, I notice you say this is an old design. By that do you mean one should look for something more "latest and greatest?" The size and budget for this are about perfect for what I'm intending, but if there's a better fit...
I apologize for the newbie questions, I'm just trying to wrap my head around this.
End open? No problem!
Hi Andrew - Should work exactly the same as the original. Room effects are
something I can't predict, since the room dimensions and the wavelength
are nearly the same.
Hi AVERYRM - For home use, 100 Watts is overkill. Tom Danley has sold some
kits that go lower, but this is almost as good for much less money.
Hi Andrew - Should work exactly the same as the original. Room effects are
something I can't predict, since the room dimensions and the wavelength
are nearly the same.
Hi AVERYRM - For home use, 100 Watts is overkill. Tom Danley has sold some
kits that go lower, but this is almost as good for much less money.
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Hmm so 1400watts is super over kill?
My lab 12 handles the bridged qsc Rmx1450 just fine. Although I don't abuse it and I do have a high pass at 18Hz 48 db/octave.
I'm going to build a Lab12
I'm going to build a Lab12. I have a few questions. I will get pictures.
1. Is the inductor necessary? I have seen other posts where someone, I can't recall who, said it wasn't. I don't want to screw it up.
2. What does the inductor do?
3. I also saw where someone had used other drivers. Is the Eminence Lab 12 still the best choice?
4. The Bash 300 or a rack amp, suggestions in the same price range?
5. I saw that there was some talk about the amp needed to be the one with a certain feature, I can't recall what this feature was. Maybe it was the Dayton they were talking about?
Sorry for so many questions, but I have a serious case of information overload, and it is starting to all run together.
Thanks, Bill
I'm going to build a Lab12. I have a few questions. I will get pictures.
1. Is the inductor necessary? I have seen other posts where someone, I can't recall who, said it wasn't. I don't want to screw it up.
2. What does the inductor do?
3. I also saw where someone had used other drivers. Is the Eminence Lab 12 still the best choice?
4. The Bash 300 or a rack amp, suggestions in the same price range?
5. I saw that there was some talk about the amp needed to be the one with a certain feature, I can't recall what this feature was. Maybe it was the Dayton they were talking about?
Sorry for so many questions, but I have a serious case of information overload, and it is starting to all run together.
Thanks, Bill
Hmm so 1400watts is super over kill?
My lab 12 handles the bridged qsc Rmx1450 just fine. Although I don't abuse it and I do have a high pass at 18Hz 48 db/octave.
The LAB12 driver is rated at 400 watts according to the Eminence Data Sheet. In the LabSubwoofer it can handle 3k+ watts, and that with 2 drivers in one cab.
However, in many other cabs it is electrically limited to a lower power handling. In this particular TH, I expect the driver to handle a maximum power of 500 watts, perhaps, 400 to be safe.