From the FAQ....
What is the internal latency of a miniDSP?
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The miniDSP will introduce a small latency(delay) in the signal flow since the signal needs to be processed, converted (AD/DA) on the path. While the exact latency value will depend on the number/type of filter enabled (i.e. group delay), the overall latency (input to output) will typically be circa 1.5ms
What is the internal latency of a miniDSP?
*
The miniDSP will introduce a small latency(delay) in the signal flow since the signal needs to be processed, converted (AD/DA) on the path. While the exact latency value will depend on the number/type of filter enabled (i.e. group delay), the overall latency (input to output) will typically be circa 1.5ms
I had worried about that as well. I don't think my current receiver allows any type of delay to the main speakers and it doesn't have main channel pre-outs. I guess we'll have to see if it's going to be an audible problem. As it is, the response is pretty decent (attached) so really I'd only be using the minidsp for HPF, which might be easier to do with a simple line level filter.
Edit: Oh! I wonder if it would be as simple as adjusting the "speaker distance" setting?
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Yeah, and it has distance for the subwoofer, so I'm assuming that increasing the subwoofer distance delays everything else, something like 1.1 feet for every ms of delay you're looking for.
Drops at 40 dB per octave from 20 Hz, but that is some pants flapping response.
It's got a little help dropping off quick, I have the HPF set at 15 cycles..which I may change after some experimentation. I'm still not entirely convinced that even the 1812 overture will get me to xmech unless I get really abusive with the volume.
By far the easiest way is to use this:
Cut List
I messed with it this morning and came up with what I've attached. This is for MDF or wood where you can ignore the grain direction.
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Great program.
But I may have acess to a CNC machine, it would be nice have a "cnc file" to use.
I built a pair of em, it's the same horn that's in post 1, but I used TC Sounds Epic 12s.
After much searching, I found this design as almost a perfect match for what I'm looking to do.
I'm planning on keeping this behind my couch as it will be well hidden, and good for a shelf when not cranked up too loud. With that in mind, I have some newbie questions:
1) Moving the opening so that it fires straight out (From panel C "Front" to panel F "Bottom) and having the enclosure rest on what used to be the rear wouldn't have a negative impact, correct?
2) Should I plan on mounting a plate amp (say the Bash 300) somewhere on the main enclosure, building a separate addition to house the plate amp, or getting a stand-alone amp?
I recently got into DIY speakers with the Tritrix TL mains and am adding a tritrix center and MT surrounds. This sub, although large, seems like a great value and great addition to my setup.
Thanks for the help!
I'm planning on keeping this behind my couch as it will be well hidden, and good for a shelf when not cranked up too loud. With that in mind, I have some newbie questions:
1) Moving the opening so that it fires straight out (From panel C "Front" to panel F "Bottom) and having the enclosure rest on what used to be the rear wouldn't have a negative impact, correct?
2) Should I plan on mounting a plate amp (say the Bash 300) somewhere on the main enclosure, building a separate addition to house the plate amp, or getting a stand-alone amp?
I recently got into DIY speakers with the Tritrix TL mains and am adding a tritrix center and MT surrounds. This sub, although large, seems like a great value and great addition to my setup.
Thanks for the help!
It's a monster, I'm sure you'll love it. Imo, there wouldn't be a problem relocating the mouth as you've suggested. Resting on the rear puts the driver facing down. The driver I used can work like this, however I haven't checked the Lab 12 to know what it's sag % is to know if there would be any adverse effects.