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Old 7th June 2011, 03:14 PM   #131
nuconz is offline nuconz  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tb46 View Post
TRIO12
here's a link to something as good and that is certainly easier to build.

the SDX12 doesn't seem available any more. don't know if the trio 12 will work, but probably will. might also substitute the SDX10.

i built a prototype of this as a 1st attempt a couple years back and slapped an el cheapo "on hand" woofer in it. turned out ok in spite of some mistakes. if i did it again, and i might, i would not "side mount" the woofer as shown; i'd "front mount" it. look better and probably be louder.

perhaps scott can offer some insight?

http://homepage.mac.com/tlinespeaker...VR-0v9-map.pdf
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Old 7th June 2011, 04:26 PM   #132
tb46 is offline tb46  United States
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Hi nuconz,

I thing we are getting further and further away from the title of this thread.

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Old 7th June 2011, 05:02 PM   #133
tb46 is offline tb46  United States
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Hi nuconz,

Anyway, you might find portions of this thread interesting:

Novice stereo subs project with stereo amp.

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Old 8th June 2011, 05:04 PM   #134
peinal is offline peinal  Austria
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20hz Tapped Horn

Tapped Horns
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Old 8th June 2011, 05:53 PM   #135
AndrewT is online now AndrewT  Scotland
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Nice design and build paper by Volvotreter.
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Old 27th November 2011, 12:23 AM   #136
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Don Snyder View Post
MaVo did the simulation, Chris8sirhC decided to build the first one, and I did the fold for Chris. Now, Layertone has built one of the nicest Tapped Horns of this series.
Just how many have these been built by now? Does anyone have any idea? Would this still be considered a good solid build today?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Don Snyder View Post
The Lab12 has too soft a suspension and too low Fs. It's a good driver for the money, and available.
I'm trying to make sure I have the context correct. Is the above quote in reference to a different design? Or are we saying the Lab12 is not a good driver for the box shown in the very first post of this thread?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Don Snyder View Post
... anything not square is at 2.3 degrees. That includes j, h, and i as well as k. Tapped Horns require leak-proof construction. Any leak will ruin the output...
Something I like about this box is that everything is square (with respect to the other pieces it touches) except for one end of J and K. K is short and if it takes me a couple tries to cut it right, no big deal. I'm tempted to just cut both ends of J square and even if it leaks, at least the relevant end of J is accessible through the mouth of the horn. I can run a bead of construction adhesive down there if needed. Otherwise, cutting a 2.3 degree angle off the end of a 47 inch plank is going to be tricky for me. Any thoughts?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Don Snyder View Post
Make all the 13 inch cuts with one set-up of a well adjusted table saw, and they won't vary by more than 1/64 inch.
I've built a couple small folded horns before, but nothing on this scale. My table saw is kind small and wimpy. For some odd reason (probably bad technique) my cuts on the table saw often tend to have a small "jump" somewhere in the middle, especially if the piece with which I am working is larger than 2'x 3' or so. I'm thinking for these panels I'm going to do a much better job with a homemade sawboard and a simple circular saw. Am I headed in the wrong direction here?

Quote:
Originally Posted by tb46 View Post
...a series inductor has been added to smoothen the response. In practice that may not make much of a difference.
Has anyone tried this design without the series inductor? It would be nice to leave it out if the inductor doesn't make a significant difference in actual practice.

My last observation... I plotted the cross sectional area versus the path length. It seems to me the very first section (from the throat through to the first 180 degree bend) is just a little bit off, being larger than I think it ought to be. Is this intentional, simply a compromise of the design, or a mistake in my calculations? For what it's worth, the rest of the folding seems to have a very consistent expansion throughout all the folds.
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Old 27th November 2011, 03:19 AM   #137
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I built this one out of MDF (no bracing as shown in the original post)
I posted it a few pages back.

I like it, no complaints. Great output, nice extension. Large in size. But I laid it on its side and use it as a TV stand. No problem!
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Old 10th May 2012, 02:20 AM   #138
khix is offline khix  United States
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Default Slight modification to Don's 30hz design

Hello Don, I am new to this and don't know a lot about the how all this works, but I was thinking of taking your 30hz tapped horn design and changing the deminsions of the box slightly. I want to lay the box flat and place my entertainment center on top of it. The change would be from 30X38 to 24x44. Seems to be the same volume so do you think it would work.
Thank you for your time.
Keith
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Old 29th August 2012, 06:41 PM   #139
DrDyna is offline DrDyna  United States
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With a TC Sounds Epic 12. I might just have to build this.
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File Type: jpg tcsounds epic 12 in lab12 horn.jpg (156.4 KB, 489 views)
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Old 30th August 2012, 08:44 PM   #140
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The upper (above 65ish Hz) response won't be as ragged as that, so don't go nuts over only trying to use it from 20-65....it should smoothly play higher to cross over to smaller main speakers. I'm using mine up until 100Hz just fine.
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