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Old 22nd April 2009, 06:37 AM   #1
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Default TD 15S Bass Boxes

Hi,

Some months back I bought 4 x AE TD15S drivers, which were planned to be part of a 3 way speaker as part of my first ever diy speaker job. I was using 2 x 15"s per side (in a 320lt sealed cab), crossing to a TD10M mid, then to a TPL 150 ribbon tweeter.

Two CX2310's (3-way mono) were the crossover units and bass eq was via a FBQ2496.

End result was ok but below expectations and way inferior to what I already had. With regards to the bass, I felt the 15"s never got out of idle so I never heard what they are capable of.

I now want to try the TD15S drivers as woofers, say with a desired freq range from 40Hz to 180Hz and in a much smaller box and then high pass to my Dyn C4 speakers.

Would I be better to try a single driver per side as opposed to dual drivers per side? They would be powered by an EP4000 amp. How small a cabinet could I use with these drivers, either single or dual?

Prior to this diy attempt, I was (and still am) using a Velo DD15 sub, CX2310 and C4 speakers. The idea of the TD15S to take the place of the Velo is to allow them to cross higher than the Velo can and to hopefully provide more bass impact.

I care not that the TD drivers will not go low (say below 40Hz), as I get plenty of room gain.

I use REW to show me what I'm hearing.

Any opinions welcomed.
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Old 23rd April 2009, 07:27 PM   #2
GM is offline GM  United States
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Can't comment about the rest, but dual horizontally opposed 15"/~291 L net sealed to increase floor gain, horizontal directivity, giving them a more horn loaded type of 'punch' works for me.

If you want to go with a smaller net Vb, then make them ~aperiodic to keep them from being under-damped. At a glance, ~125 L with a well stuffed vent of at least an 8 cm diameter looks good for dual drivers.

GM
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Old 25th April 2009, 12:30 AM   #3
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Thanks for the advice GM. I like the idea of the 125lt option.

Also keen to hear from others who have heard the TD15S drivers.
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Old 3rd May 2009, 02:02 PM   #4
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Hi Luckydog and welcome to the forum!

I think we have met on one or two stereonet advertised events.

It's hard to comment without knowing a little more. I'm a little curious what you had before, and also what your observations were with the new setup.

After hearing so much talk about how much better active is, I built my own active xo. I was very surprised when the result wasn't as good as the passive xo I already had! I discovered quickly that a properly designed passive xo is better than active not done right!

Have you been able to measure in any way the response you are getting?

Have you given the drivers some time to break in?

Is it also possible that the new drivers are more dry than what you are used to, but you haven't given yourself enough time to adjust to the difference?
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Old 5th November 2009, 07:42 AM   #5
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Default lovin' the "horn loaded punch"

Quote:
Originally Posted by GM View Post
Can't comment about the rest, but dual horizontally opposed 15"/~291 L net sealed to increase floor gain, horizontal directivity, giving them a more horn loaded type of 'punch' works for me.
GM
Bringing this thread back to life as I am building these dual opposed cabinets for the AE TD15S. They will be running from 20 to 500Hz as support for unity horns, in effect being the 'stands' for the unitys. (building a pair)

Overall dimensions are close to 590 x 790 x 720mm (W x D x H). There will be a main brace between the two drivers and the baffles will be double thickness (19mm BBply).

Couple of questions: what additional bracing should I use?
What height on the baffle should I locate the drivers?
I have some cotton moving blanket dampening, do I need stuffing as well?
(would be nice to gain a little extra volume thru stuffing as the brace will take up a bit of internal area)
Do I need more dampening?
Are dado joints critical if I am going to glue and screw?
Should the 'driver brace' actually touch the back of the drivers?
Should I round over the corners? if so, by how much?

Appreciate your input
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