lol the pipes are fully outside the box, non of them is on the inside.... to the box volume is kept as big as possible.. lol
Its not inside out...
lol
I did it because I am going in a competition against some Sony Explod subs... Mine is a $40 cheapo sub, that does pretty well, but I wanted it louder... The sonys are a 10inch and a 12inch... I have already heard the 10inch, and it was alright, so I had to make mine louder.... A bigger box would be better, but I didnt want to spend money, so I just hacked my existing one, and mounted everything on the outside (to increase teh internal volume) Its tuned to have a pretty HUGE peak in the response. This is how it was in a sealeed box, but by venting it I exagerated it even more.. lol Both the Sonys are in sealed enclosures.
Its not inside out...
lolI did it because I am going in a competition against some Sony Explod subs... Mine is a $40 cheapo sub, that does pretty well, but I wanted it louder... The sonys are a 10inch and a 12inch... I have already heard the 10inch, and it was alright, so I had to make mine louder....
A bigger box would be better, but I didnt want to spend money, so I just hacked my existing one, and mounted everything on the outside (to increase teh internal volume) Its tuned to have a pretty HUGE peak in the response. This is how it was in a sealeed box, but by venting it I exagerated it even more.. lol Both the Sonys are in sealed enclosures.
Isn't porting the box supposed to reduce the cone excursion at certain frequencies?
Cos... with mine... at 50Hz without the ports inplace (so the holes are still open) the cone moves a fair way... If I cover up the holes the cone moves further... If I plug the ports back in, the cone move as far as when the box wasn't ported... The box was tuned to something like 50Hz anyway.... WHATS GOING ON!?!?!? do I need more ports?? lol greater port area?? THAXN!!!
Cos... with mine... at 50Hz without the ports inplace (so the holes are still open) the cone moves a fair way... If I cover up the holes the cone moves further... If I plug the ports back in, the cone move as far as when the box wasn't ported...
The box was tuned to something like 50Hz anyway.... WHATS GOING ON!?!?!? do I need more ports?? lol greater port area?? THAXN!!!
SkinnyBoy said:
Yes, if the box is designed correctly it will
Check out the online enclosure designer at linearteam
pinkmouse said:
Couldn't be bothered.. :S lol I designed it with WINISD..
Features: •This driver has a thick coated Paper cone and a rubber surround. •Heavy duty pressed metal basket. •High power aluminum voice coil former •High quality gold binding posts. Thiele and Small Parameters. Nominal Impedance: 4ohms. Power: 90watts RMS. Sensitivity: 87db 1 watt 1 metre. Voice coil Resistance: 3.2ohms. Resonant Frequency (Fs): 32.3Hz. Mechanical Q Factor (Qms): 3.11. Electrical Q Factor (Qes): 1.026. Total Q Factor (Qts): 0.771. Equivalent volume (Vas): 97.96Lt. Cone area (Square metres): 0.0346 Voice Coil Inductance: 0.479mH. Magnet weight: 30oz. Voice Coil Height: 12mm. Voice Coil Diameter: 38mm. Gap Height: 6mm. X-Max: 3.0mm . Speaker dimensions: A-260, B-250, C-236 Free field Response (See Curve) Box Volume (Ltrs) :50 Ltrs Tuning Frequency(Hz) :55.6 -3dB Frequency(Hz) :40 Qtc :1.3 Box Dimensions :299(W), 375(D), 474(H) Closed field Response (3000 ltr incar Environment) Box Volume (Ltrs) : 50 Peak Frequency (Hz): 50 Peak in Response (Db): 3
Is all the info I have on the sub..
Is all the info I have on the sub..
im so lost...
i just plugged the specs u gave into winisd....
that's some SERIOUSLY peaky response..
i don't understand your motivation behind the enclosure type/setup u chose..
basically all your sub does is play high-almost midrange bass
LOUDLY..
as for midrange - lower bass..
it does very little
and your sub is doing some serious decoupling...
which could explain the huge excursions you're getting....
cause i don't see how a woofer with a 3 mm xmax gives a huge excursions otherwise..
btw how are u powering your sub...how much juice is running into it...
i just plugged the specs u gave into winisd....
that's some SERIOUSLY peaky response..
i don't understand your motivation behind the enclosure type/setup u chose..
basically all your sub does is play high-almost midrange bass
LOUDLY..
as for midrange - lower bass..
it does very little
and your sub is doing some serious decoupling...
which could explain the huge excursions you're getting....
cause i don't see how a woofer with a 3 mm xmax gives a huge excursions otherwise..
btw how are u powering your sub...how much juice is running into it...
reply
It can do big excersions,because xmax is just the voice coil staying in the magnetic gap.X mech is the safest distance the cone can travel before damage possibly.Double the x mech [linear excersion peak to peak] thats the maximum possible distance the cone can travel without physical damage.Eg torn or creased cone,ripped surround and spider,bent voice coil former[or the voice coil hitting the back plate].
Also being a cheap loudspeaker,using it for a subwoofer is only good if the voice coil can handle being pushed and abused.
A 2 inch dual layer high temperature polyamide-imide coated copper voice coil wound on a Kapton coil former,can handle the heat and take twice the wattage rms[as long as it's NOT clipped].
Also the vented pole piece on high wattage models[100w rms and over],help to cool the voice coil with air,as it moves back and forth.
I don't know whether your speaker has a vented pole piece,
but the aluminium voice coil former is not resistant to abuse like Kapton is,and the thin aluminium voice coil former tends to bend at high temperatures.
Having a sensitivity of 87 db SPL 1w at 1m and being 4 ohm, I guess it's a car speaker.Hifi speakers have a low-medium sensitivity but are normally 8 or 6 ohms.Pa speakers have a high sensitivity and are either 8 0hm or sometimes 16 ohm.And Car speakers have a low-medium sensitivity,and are either 4 ohms.
Also only having a 30 0z magnet and and a 38 mm voice coil[1 1/2 inch] it's definatly not suitable for a subwoofer,but it's ok for a mid bass bin as long as it's not kept at high volume levels for hours.
As it has a resonant freqency of 32.3 hz,which is pretty low frequency.But I bet this is not true unless it's from a good company which doesn't put misprints or lies about their products.
A lot of the very cheap car audio speakers are made by unknown manufactors with false specs about their speakers.
There are a lot of good manufactors that I trust about their speaker specs:
Pioneer,Kenwood,Sony,Eminence,Fane,Audax,Precision Devices,Selenium,JBL,Beyma,Celestion,Peavey,ElectroVoice,CerwinVega,Peerless,Seas,Vifa,Cts,Motorola,JVC,Panasonic,Phillips,Wembely loudspeakers,Bose,Rockford Fostage,JL Audio,P.Audio,ZEUZ,Bumper,RCF Precision,
And here are the crap speaker manufactors who lie about the stuff: Tornado,Fury,Longmill,Goodmans[new version,old version was good],Bush,Alba,Amstrad,Samsung,LG,QTX,Boss,RCL,Stageline.
I know they lie because once I had a tv made by Goodmans which said it had a 6w rms speaker in the manual,when i came to repair the tv years later the speaker was a 2 w rms.
To Skinny Boy it would help if you could tell me the make of your speaker and the model number.Well if you know all these specs about it the speaker surelly has a make and a model number[at least on the back of the magnet] or on the spec sheet.
As you said you tried the Sony Explod 10 inch and 12 inch subs,and you want to go in competiton with them.
The Sony Explod subs are not that good at all.Nice looking red cone and rubber surround,but the tiny magnet and horribly small voice coil makes it not that good.
Of course materials wise,the Sony sub is better than a dirt cheap car sub.But neither of the subs are very good subwoofers.
Rockford Fostage car subs are very good,whilst the lower wattage models[100w rms-300w rms models] are quite cheap compaired to their 400wrms-1000w rms speakers with 4 inch voice coils,huge 120 oz magnets and die cast aluminium frames.
Last but not least,I guess your 'subwoofer' [bass driver] is for home hifi or maybe home cinema,as long as you don't play it at loud volumes,you should be fine[although the quality of a really cheap speaker is crap].
Also mounting the speaker so it sits on top of the box,makes the bass weaker,and can damage it easier with over excersion.
It gets damaged easier because the speaker has to work harder,to produce the same volume as if it was mounted inside the box.
It can do big excersions,because xmax is just the voice coil staying in the magnetic gap.X mech is the safest distance the cone can travel before damage possibly.Double the x mech [linear excersion peak to peak] thats the maximum possible distance the cone can travel without physical damage.Eg torn or creased cone,ripped surround and spider,bent voice coil former[or the voice coil hitting the back plate].
Also being a cheap loudspeaker,using it for a subwoofer is only good if the voice coil can handle being pushed and abused.
A 2 inch dual layer high temperature polyamide-imide coated copper voice coil wound on a Kapton coil former,can handle the heat and take twice the wattage rms[as long as it's NOT clipped].
Also the vented pole piece on high wattage models[100w rms and over],help to cool the voice coil with air,as it moves back and forth.
I don't know whether your speaker has a vented pole piece,
but the aluminium voice coil former is not resistant to abuse like Kapton is,and the thin aluminium voice coil former tends to bend at high temperatures.
Having a sensitivity of 87 db SPL 1w at 1m and being 4 ohm, I guess it's a car speaker.Hifi speakers have a low-medium sensitivity but are normally 8 or 6 ohms.Pa speakers have a high sensitivity and are either 8 0hm or sometimes 16 ohm.And Car speakers have a low-medium sensitivity,and are either 4 ohms.
Also only having a 30 0z magnet and and a 38 mm voice coil[1 1/2 inch] it's definatly not suitable for a subwoofer,but it's ok for a mid bass bin as long as it's not kept at high volume levels for hours.
As it has a resonant freqency of 32.3 hz,which is pretty low frequency.But I bet this is not true unless it's from a good company which doesn't put misprints or lies about their products.
A lot of the very cheap car audio speakers are made by unknown manufactors with false specs about their speakers.
There are a lot of good manufactors that I trust about their speaker specs:
Pioneer,Kenwood,Sony,Eminence,Fane,Audax,Precision Devices,Selenium,JBL,Beyma,Celestion,Peavey,ElectroVoice,CerwinVega,Peerless,Seas,Vifa,Cts,Motorola,JVC,Panasonic,Phillips,Wembely loudspeakers,Bose,Rockford Fostage,JL Audio,P.Audio,ZEUZ,Bumper,RCF Precision,
And here are the crap speaker manufactors who lie about the stuff: Tornado,Fury,Longmill,Goodmans[new version,old version was good],Bush,Alba,Amstrad,Samsung,LG,QTX,Boss,RCL,Stageline.
I know they lie because once I had a tv made by Goodmans which said it had a 6w rms speaker in the manual,when i came to repair the tv years later the speaker was a 2 w rms.
To Skinny Boy it would help if you could tell me the make of your speaker and the model number.Well if you know all these specs about it the speaker surelly has a make and a model number[at least on the back of the magnet] or on the spec sheet.
As you said you tried the Sony Explod 10 inch and 12 inch subs,and you want to go in competiton with them.
The Sony Explod subs are not that good at all.Nice looking red cone and rubber surround,but the tiny magnet and horribly small voice coil makes it not that good.
Of course materials wise,the Sony sub is better than a dirt cheap car sub.But neither of the subs are very good subwoofers.
Rockford Fostage car subs are very good,whilst the lower wattage models[100w rms-300w rms models] are quite cheap compaired to their 400wrms-1000w rms speakers with 4 inch voice coils,huge 120 oz magnets and die cast aluminium frames.
Last but not least,I guess your 'subwoofer' [bass driver] is for home hifi or maybe home cinema,as long as you don't play it at loud volumes,you should be fine[although the quality of a really cheap speaker is crap].
Also mounting the speaker so it sits on top of the box,makes the bass weaker,and can damage it easier with over excersion.
It gets damaged easier because the speaker has to work harder,to produce the same volume as if it was mounted inside the box.
Nice Ports!
Well, today I went to my friends house (the one with the 10inch sony) and his SUCKED!!! BIG TIME!!! he has a bigger magnet and higher power handeling, but mine pumped WAY harder than his... (in my opinion) I think he now realises how crap his is..
Well, the sub does have a HUGE amount of midrange that it creates itself... I don't know how... but even with a crossover (about 150Hz) and the midragge and trebble turned fully down and the bass fully up, it still has midrange.. lol Its a cheap driver... it cost $40 AU.. but it outperforms my 2 10inch woofers when it comes to bass.... actually.. they have like 7cm diameter magnets... lol
I puched the driver pretty hard.. something started burning... I only hacked the box cos I had no need for it anymore, and wanted to experiment..
It actually does the bass in music pretty well... and handles computer games SWEET!! lol
The driver is really cheap, but pretty good.... they don't sell them anymore.. if they did I'd pick up a pair of 12inchs to make a set of el-cheapo speakers..
Well, the sub does have a HUGE amount of midrange that it creates itself... I don't know how... but even with a crossover (about 150Hz) and the midragge and trebble turned fully down and the bass fully up, it still has midrange.. lol Its a cheap driver... it cost $40 AU.. but it outperforms my 2 10inch woofers when it comes to bass.... actually.. they have like 7cm diameter magnets...
lolI puched the driver pretty hard.. something started burning... I only hacked the box cos I had no need for it anymore, and wanted to experiment..
It actually does the bass in music pretty well... and handles computer games SWEET!! lol
The driver is really cheap, but pretty good.... they don't sell them anymore..
if they did I'd pick up a pair of 12inchs to make a set of el-cheapo speakers..
lol nope, haven't made em.. I am waiting on a) funds, b) availability of woodworking shop equipment.... lol and they are 2 way... I couldn't afford midranges.. lol Hope they will be good.... I would also like to make a passive radiator 12inch Peerless subwoofer.... to rattle the house.. lol Still saving for that.. lol
I am waiting on a) funds, b) availability of woodworking shop equipment.... lol and they are 2 way... I couldn't afford midranges.. lol Hope they will be good.... I would also like to make a passive radiator 12inch Peerless subwoofer.... to rattle the house.. lol Still saving for that.. lol
Skinnyboy-if u want to NOT waste your money on PRs,
shiva
im thinkn of getting one...
i know the Peerless is better but,,waste of money a PVC pipe will do.
ive modeled the XLS ,in a normal box it NEEDS prs,in a Large box ,it sort of can Just fit the ports in
peerless XLS=big amp
12inch peerless
shiva
im thinkn of getting one...
i know the Peerless is better but,,waste of money a PVC pipe will do.
ive modeled the XLS ,in a normal box it NEEDS prs,in a Large box ,it sort of can Just fit the ports in
peerless XLS=big amp
12inch peerless
mikee12345 said:Skinnyboy-if u want to NOT waste your money on PRs,
shiva
im thinkn of getting one...
i know the Peerless is better but,,waste of money a PVC pipe will do.
ive modeled the XLS ,in a normal box it NEEDS prs,in a Large box ,it sort of can Just fit the ports in
peerless XLS=big amp
12inch peerless
But passive radiators are smaller than ports, and there is NO chance of noise..
Also, they look better I like Peerless... I like the fact that I can get them at trade price... I like the 44mm X-max and the huge surround..
lol I like.. whats shiva?? lol I want 2 Passive Radiators.. I can't afford it, but I won't regret it.. lol I am willing to get a big amp... 300watts or more... I'd really like to MAKE a plate amp.. anyway.... No-one has heard of Peerless... someone I was speaking to said that a Pioneer 10inch would sound better than a Peerless 12inch.... well.... lol I'lkl Take the peerless ANYDAY!!- Status
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