Hi guys
I have a problem due to the extremely hot weather we've been having.
Due to moving house the spare sub-woofer box was sitting on the porch and I forgot to move it inside, it was exposed to the hot sun for 3 days in excess of 45C and the glue has given way.
Luckily or unluckily the separation is only on the top 1/3 of the driver.
The driver is an old Kicker sub meant for car use but it has been used for HT and music, can I get away with just re-gluing where it has lifted from the frame??
These car subs can be a real pain to work on because of the flat dust cap which seems to be glued directly to the top of the voice coil.
This driver came from Kicker sans gasket, if I reglue should I try and find a replacement gasket that fits??
regards
Ted
I have a problem due to the extremely hot weather we've been having.
Due to moving house the spare sub-woofer box was sitting on the porch and I forgot to move it inside, it was exposed to the hot sun for 3 days in excess of 45C and the glue has given way.
Luckily or unluckily the separation is only on the top 1/3 of the driver.
The driver is an old Kicker sub meant for car use but it has been used for HT and music, can I get away with just re-gluing where it has lifted from the frame??
These car subs can be a real pain to work on because of the flat dust cap which seems to be glued directly to the top of the voice coil.
This driver came from Kicker sans gasket, if I reglue should I try and find a replacement gasket that fits??
regards
Ted
Moondog:
Is this a foam surround?
As Simon5 just said: UV is brutal on surrounds.
I've had foam surrounds on car speakers "powder" and crumble.
The surrounds kit I purchase come with soft white glue.
The Material Product Data Sheet indicate it is identical to Rosco FlexBond, or Aleene’s Tacky Glue.
One kit actual came with a bottle of Aleene’s .
I've had good luck with these products re-gluing surrounds.
Hope this helps
Is this a foam surround?
As Simon5 just said: UV is brutal on surrounds.
I've had foam surrounds on car speakers "powder" and crumble.
The surrounds kit I purchase come with soft white glue.
The Material Product Data Sheet indicate it is identical to Rosco FlexBond, or Aleene’s Tacky Glue.
One kit actual came with a bottle of Aleene’s .
I've had good luck with these products re-gluing surrounds.
Hope this helps
If the surround isn't shot, you can use a long stemmed applicator ( Q-tips ) to put glue under the lifted part and use old fashion spring clothes pins to clamp until the glues sets.
I've never encountered a flat dust cap.
All the vendors I've dealt with ( P.E. and MCM ) only have curved caps...
But I 'll tell you what I do for them; The kits I use have surrounds, dust caps and VC shims to make sure the surround is not installed in such a manner as to pull the VC off center.
Use a curved bill scissors and trim off the old cap as close to the junction as possible.
Use an exacto knife to trim to the cone ( or you can leave the tinniest of a lip ) depending on if the new cap is a direct replacement or slightly different from the original.
Dry place the cap - mark the cone with a pencil for placement.
The dust caps with a little ridge ( most of them ), may need some gentle bending to parallel the cones angle.
Run a thin bead of glue on the underside of this ridge, and place.
Use a toothpick to gently press down on the lip to guarantee it's contact is solid.
You may have to repeat ( the press down ) if the lip acts like it wants to lift up - the glue sets pretty quickly though.
You don't use much glue so added weight isn't much a concern.
I have "doped" entire cones and caps and the Fs dropped by less than 1 Hz. This was on a JBL 2206 approx 8 years old that had been part of a outdoor touring system. A lot of summer sun had baked the plain paper dust cap brittle and crumbly.
The cone is a composite paper with fibre reinforcement and was in good shape.
I carefully cleaned the cone surface replaced the dust cap and ran an impedance sweep and then doped all cone surfaces, after it dried I reran an impedance sweep and it was still very close to JBL specs.
Good luck
I've never encountered a flat dust cap.
All the vendors I've dealt with ( P.E. and MCM ) only have curved caps...
But I 'll tell you what I do for them; The kits I use have surrounds, dust caps and VC shims to make sure the surround is not installed in such a manner as to pull the VC off center.
Use a curved bill scissors and trim off the old cap as close to the junction as possible.
Use an exacto knife to trim to the cone ( or you can leave the tinniest of a lip ) depending on if the new cap is a direct replacement or slightly different from the original.
Dry place the cap - mark the cone with a pencil for placement.
The dust caps with a little ridge ( most of them ), may need some gentle bending to parallel the cones angle.
Run a thin bead of glue on the underside of this ridge, and place.
Use a toothpick to gently press down on the lip to guarantee it's contact is solid.
You may have to repeat ( the press down ) if the lip acts like it wants to lift up - the glue sets pretty quickly though.
You don't use much glue so added weight isn't much a concern.
I have "doped" entire cones and caps and the Fs dropped by less than 1 Hz. This was on a JBL 2206 approx 8 years old that had been part of a outdoor touring system. A lot of summer sun had baked the plain paper dust cap brittle and crumbly.
The cone is a composite paper with fibre reinforcement and was in good shape.
I carefully cleaned the cone surface replaced the dust cap and ran an impedance sweep and then doped all cone surfaces, after it dried I reran an impedance sweep and it was still very close to JBL specs.
Good luck
Good news
Great customer service from Kickers Australian distributor.
I have been given a small bottle of the correct glue to re-attach the surround, and very good personal instruction on the best way to do the job, thanks Kieth, not only that but I have been supplied FOC a replacement gasket, I need to leave the repair until after the house move is complete but I have the information and equipment to do the job.
Also supplied was a small quantity of a sealant to stop the foam surround from deteriorating any further, not economical to do it during production as it has to be applied by hand
Sad to see all of the drivers on the shelf with burnt out voice coils, all car subs and all of them not covered by warranty because of over-driving, sad because the frames and magnets go into the bin, recone and recoil kits are no longer available, apparently it is no longer economical to offer a repair service, wages cost being higher than making a new driver on a production line.
Great customer service from Kickers Australian distributor.
I have been given a small bottle of the correct glue to re-attach the surround, and very good personal instruction on the best way to do the job, thanks Kieth, not only that but I have been supplied FOC a replacement gasket, I need to leave the repair until after the house move is complete but I have the information and equipment to do the job.
Also supplied was a small quantity of a sealant to stop the foam surround from deteriorating any further, not economical to do it during production as it has to be applied by hand
Sad to see all of the drivers on the shelf with burnt out voice coils, all car subs and all of them not covered by warranty because of over-driving, sad because the frames and magnets go into the bin, recone and recoil kits are no longer available, apparently it is no longer economical to offer a repair service, wages cost being higher than making a new driver on a production line.
Finished
Just thought I'd let you know that the repair was a success, using cotton buds ( Q-tips ) was the way to go.
I lifted the edge one section at a time applied the glue and used Bulldog clips to hold the surround down temporarily.
I then added the front gasket, wiped off all the excess glue; turned it upside down for 3 days and just waited for the glue to dry.
it is up and working in the rebuilt box and overall I'm quite happy with my repair
Just thought I'd let you know that the repair was a success, using cotton buds ( Q-tips ) was the way to go.
I lifted the edge one section at a time applied the glue and used Bulldog clips to hold the surround down temporarily.
I then added the front gasket, wiped off all the excess glue; turned it upside down for 3 days and just waited for the glue to dry.
it is up and working in the rebuilt box and overall I'm quite happy with my repair
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