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Old 26th April 2009, 10:03 AM   #11
Westerp is offline Westerp  Netherlands
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Default Re: Re: Building a nice Subwoofer - questions.

Originally posted by tinitus
and made in Germany


Die Produktion ist in China unter Taiwanesischer Leitung. Wichtige Teile werden aus Taiwan importiert.
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Old 27th April 2009, 11:14 PM   #12
tinitus is offline tinitus  Europe
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Made in China, und ganz deutlich in klarrtext zu lesen

Still, nice features
But it goes fast right now, so very soon nothing goes without full digital eq
Its brand new, and already outdated
But I would still choose it over a plateamp
sometimes we know very little, and sometimes we know too much
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Old 28th April 2009, 01:49 PM   #13
matimun is offline matimun  Kenya
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Default Subwoofer box-building software

Just completed my second sub project involving a SONY XS-L126P5 driver, with a rollover frequency of 23.5 Hz. I used WinISD as the major modeling program for the vented box.
Unfortunately, for your kind of drivers, I cannot help much with the parameters as most of the driver products in our market are Japanese/Chinese..

I can however recommend some equally useful programs such as LspCAD lite and BassBox 6 Pro . Also, check out for some good software listings.

You may also wanna check out some excellent online calculators such as Educypedia and

Else happy building!
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Old 28th April 2009, 03:20 PM   #14
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Default speaker basics

Hi there: Before choosing drivers, or box designs, inorder to get a grounding in theory (in a practicle way at least) recommend you purchase "Louadpeaker Design Cookbook" by Vance Dickason, available from or other on line sources. After reading about speaker drivers, alignment theory and computing some boxes you will be in a better position to understand the comments on the forums. Hope you will report your progress, results and listening experiences..... regards, Michael
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Old 1st May 2009, 03:00 AM   #15
tinitus is offline tinitus  Europe
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Maybe take a look at thread

"Isobaric push-pull with Dayton IB woofer"

Woofer is now available in EU through BMM

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Old 30th December 2009, 11:55 PM   #16
jwmbro is offline jwmbro  United States
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Originally Posted by tinitus View Post
You may have to let go of the deepest octave, which makes this bargain woofer a possible choice....... 10" DAYTON RS270S
So, this thread has been out of sight for a while, I've been keeping busy otherwise. But now I'm back to some subwoofer research.

I've been modeling some subwoofers in WinISD Pro. The RS270S, but also the TIT400C-4 and the DVC385-88, all by Dayton (I've gone a bit megalomaniac, looking at 15"ers, but the MFW-15 has had me thinking....).

I was modeling as vented boxes, and for all of them, WinISD was spitting out very high volumes (150l for the 10" and 250l and 330l for the 15"). That's huge! As I mentioned in my starting post, I don't really want anything bigger than 85l (I could stretch for 100l maybe, but that's the upper limit).

Am I doing something wrong in my modeling? I've read that stuffing can increase the effective volume, but certainly not by 50% I would think.

Click the image to open in full size.(big)Click the image to open in full size.(big)

I may be making some kind of novice mistake, or maybe these drivers just aren't suited for a vented design.

Do I even really want a vented design? Now I'm not so sure, but the long flat bottom extension does appeal to me...

How do commercial manufacturers build ported/vented subs with such "small" dimensions? Take for example the MFW-15 - this thing has a vented 15" that is claimed to go down to 18Hz. And yet, based off the exterior dimensions, it cannot have more than 100l volume.

I think what I'd like to do is build something similar to the MFW-15. But cheaper. Maybe less low end, but more musical dynamics...

Sorry for this stream of consciousness post, it's the middle of the night, and I've been trying to figure out what exactly to post all day, and now I just decided to go ahead. I just hope somebody can give me some feedback to my thoughts & questions.
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Old 31st December 2009, 12:50 AM   #17
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As a rough guide, vented enclosures tend to be about double the size of an optimal sealed enclosure for the same driver, but with significantly more extension.

Small vented boxes are often just non-optimal, with significant peaking. Some drivers are better suited to small boxes than others, though - see, for example, the Exodus Audio subs.

Note that you won't find many, if any, 15" drivers designed to work in less than about 80 litres (17" on a side cube).

If you come back down from 15" drivers to 12"', you'll find that the Exodus Shiva-X2 can be built in a ported enclosure as small as 70 litres. Shiva-X2 Application Notes - Home Theater Systems - Electronics and Forum - HomeTheaterShack
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Old 1st January 2010, 12:48 AM   #18
arande2 is offline arande2  United States
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I was going to suggest the LMS driver from TC Sounds until I realized your budget, ha. It was tested in 100L to achieve 118dB to 30hz, 106dB 20hz, 95dB 10hz. It was later found that the amp clipped on the 118dB test. Distortion around 1% to 30hz up to about 112dB. Still below 10% distortion to 20hz at 110dB. I believe to compare with WinISD you'd need to add 6dB to all those numbers (WinISD is half-space 1m if I am correct).

Another I might have suggested in that size is the Fi Q12 (a bit over $200) in 85L tuned to 18hz, would provide 116dB to 16hz (in-room, I mean), maybe a bit more depending on the room and wall/corner gain. It takes a bit over 1000w to do that, though.

Anyway... The Peerless XLS 12" is less than $190, and it was tested in an 85L enclosure to achieve nearly 105dB to 30hz, and then dropping a bit to 95hz and 15hz. It may actually fit your room well. This is off of 400w. Distortion is below 5% to 15hz up to 100dB. Again, I am not sure whether or not he measured 2m or 1m. If he measured 2m, you may need to add 6dB to compare to WinISD. As for an amp, the BASH 300w or 500w looks good. I did not factor in a box or port..

Last edited by arande2; 1st January 2010 at 01:08 AM.
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Old 1st January 2010, 11:22 PM   #19
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I´m helping a friend of mine to build a pair of loudspeakers and a sub. In this project money isn´t the biggest issue but dimensions and weight. A small sub that is light enough? I use to make my loudspeakers really solid and big so I have some problems with this projekt.

I have examined a great deal of sub drivers and with time some of them are no longer available. One alternative was Aurasound NS10-794-04 which could be used in a 30 liter closed box, but at the price of 490 Euro, low sensitivity and not available most of the time at the German distrubtor Quint Audio I continued my search and we will probably use the Seas L26ROY D1001 instead. It costs about 185 Euro on the continent and (of course) some 60 Euro more here in Sweden. Some key specs for this driver is VAS 85 litres, QTS 0.31, fs 22 Hz , sensitivity 2.83V/1m 88dB.

If you want you can make a rapid calculation here. A 60 L BR tuned to 27.5 Hz seems to be a starting point.

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Last edited by The golden mean; 1st January 2010 at 11:33 PM. Reason: adding some info
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Old 1st January 2010, 11:41 PM   #20
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This driver is available at Intertechnik. It is 4 Ohms thus two in parallell can be a problem.

Lautsprecher Shop Intertechnik - L26ROY | Seas Tief-, Mitteltöner :: Seas-Prestige :: Lautsprecher ::
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