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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
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i Build this sub box for a kicker S12L5. I later blew the sub. I still have the box and i just got a Alpine SWR-1222D. So i was wondering if i just change the face panel and put a new one in that is circle will it sounds good.( and wont wreck the sub)?
This is my dimensions for the box i have made. http://www.kicker.com/05/tech-suppor...ManualV2_0.pdf In the Manuel go to page 25. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
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It'll work ok, I looked up the FS' and theyre about the same (31Hz kicker, 33Hz alpine), though VAS of the alpine is smaller, so you're safe enough putting it in that box that's tuned to 40Hz.
Sensitivity is a little lower on the alpine, xmax is up a fair amount and Sd is down, it might not really go any louder but it'll look like it is. You could probably get better results designing another box for the alpine, the best would be to turn the kicker into a passive radiator, chop off the magnet and coil and replace it with a lump of lead, or just stick a big blob of something adhesive to the front. You'll have to get pretty involved in the theory of it to build it properly, if you're willing to do that then go read up on passive radiators for a week. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Melbourne, Australia
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Only thing is - how'd you blow the Kicker? If it was playing it too loud and poling it, then the Alpine might suffer the same terminal failure. Smaller box might help it last a bit longer...
__________________
Jont. "It is impossible to build a fool proof system; because fools are so ingenious." |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
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Well maybe i was playing it to loud not shur. I had 2 Memphis subs that came with a home made box. I blew them later then i got a new Kicker L5 later blew it too. Not shur why I'm thinking maybe i didn't have the amp to to the right frequency. Or I'm just playing it to loud not shur.
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
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Also it is hard to make a box for my car it can only really be 12 high. The width and length doesn't really matter.
(i have a 98 mustang small trunk) |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
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The trouble with all too many car subs I've seen is that while xmax (defined by the length of the voice coil and the flux gap) is generous, xmech (how far the suspension can go) is still a good amount larger, both of these subs were this way IIRC, and if you drive the alpines further than 19mm (IIRC) one-way excursion they'll just be a wire sitting outside of a magnet, and huge curent will flow in them, causing alot of heating and probably leading to you blowing them up. You should definitely be using a subsonic filter with these, I'm not fluent on the exact points you sould set if to but since this is a ported box tuned to 40Hz, frequencies some amount below this (and they are a significant part of alot of music these days) will result in large excursions but the port acts as a clear path between the rear and front wave and they mostly CANCEL OUT, thus nuking your subs while not making much noise, someone well versed in the subsonic filtering required with ported enclosures should chime in soon and tell you where that needs to be.
Seriously, I've seen some ported car subs playing at levels and certain tones that change right and leave the sub outside of the gap for half of the signal wave then bouncing back into the gap, then it meets the other half of the wave and heads right back out of the gap again. Eurrrrrgh. |
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