which 10 inch driver in a sealed box

[GM]

Any recommendations on which 10 inch driver to go in a 1.5 sealed box for music only applications.

So would the Reference series woofer be better than the titanic ? I would operate the sub starting at 40 hz down to whatever it can do.

Just reading and learning here as I already posted my requirements I am just all ears.

so would an 8 inch subwoofer be a better option in 1.6 cu sealed box ? or should I stay with the 10 inchers from Dayton ?

Well, you can easily answer your Qs playing with WinISD or similar program, but the bottom line is that in such a small box for a BW from only 40 Hz on down it's all about which driver has the lowest Fs, Vas and highest electrical and mechanical power handling (Pe, Xmax) combined with a < ~0.38 Qts. If it sounds too under-damped ('boomy') in-room, by simply adding a foam or similar spacer between the driver and baffle to bleed off some of the pressure as required.

GM

 

[qguy]

Plotted both drivers on Winisd and both have very similar results in a sealed 1.5 cu box

Tried the 8 inch reference and had better response from 50 hz down...

hmmm maybe I can work with just the 8 inch

 

[Exstatic]

Plotted both drivers on Winisd and both have very similar results in a sealed 1.5 cu box.

I don't want to exchange accuracy for the lowest frequency possible.

My crossover is going to be somewhere between 150 and 250Hz.

Tried the 8 inch reference and had better response from 50 hz down...

hmmm maybe I can work with just the 8 inch

GGuy very interested in this disucussion because I am trying to do something very similar and have the same questions.

I am upgrading some old speakers that currently have 8 in drivers in a 1.6l sealed box. (which would also be easy to vent). I suspect these currently have a 3dB cutoff of about 40Hz (measured by ear).

I am currently looking at using the Peerless 8" SLS 830667 drivers from madison in a sealed box. For the sealed box I calcs I have been using this very simple tool. http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=26

or the Peerless 8 inch 830884 in a vented box.

Be very keen to hear what you end up with.

 

[navin]

SEAS Prestige L26RFX/P (H1209)

I currently have a input filter on my ST-70..but once I finish the pair of subwoofers I will raise that up to about 200 hz.

Good choice for the woofer. I wonder if the ScanSpeak 10" 25W8565 is comparable. It is now replaced by the 26W26W/8861, I think that this woofer in 60-70 liters should work fine.

What do you mean by input filter? Passive line level filter or something more sophisticated?

but ultimately the laws of physics don't smile on large woofers in small sealed boxes, especially with the drivers currently on the market.

The ScanSpeak 23W4557 can go quite low in about 35 liters so in 70-80 liters you could stuff 2 or you could get their matching PRs. Only problem is that they needs gobs of power and are expensive.

It might be best to build a rolled off sealed system with good transient response (Q-.577 or so), then use active equalization to bring the response back to flat. Marchand makes a box for just that purpose.

FWIW, I used to run some heavy duty Audio Concepts 10" woofers (AC10?) in medium sealed boxes.

One can build a small bass bump EQ using a OP275 opamp and some parts right into the power amp.

I used the 4x ACI 12" (DV12) in 70 liters. With room gain the bass (in a 3000 cu. ft room) was loud enough to test the limits of my ears.

 

[scaramoucheii]

The filter on the input of my S&-70 clone amp is a passive filter. Just a Resistor Capacitor ,

It is an old Frank Van Alstine Mod for tube amps. The original FVA filter was a very wide bandpass ( a low pass and a high pass in combination) that filtered out everything below 17 hz and everyting above 17 K hz. As you may know the tube amp output transformers get very inefficient at low frequencies as the signal approcahes DC. At high frequencies the Output transformer issues and feedback cause the highs to become "Squeaky" (FVA'a definition) and therefore by filtering out these frequencies the amp performs much better and sounds much more musical.

Using just a high pass filter on the input I have experimented with 125 hz when using the Fostex Bibs and had good results ( when using a subwoofer with seperate amp of course) . So was considering just using passive filters on each amp as the crossover. I was going to get a cheap active crossover (Bheringer ?) to use for setting up and experiminting, then once I found the frequency build the simple passive input filters.

I did look at the Marchand website and the bass EQ they have looks quite reasonable. I could build on as well but currently have enough projects. Is the build simple ? I would gather that is would beed a bi polar power supply ... etc etc ... Do you have a schematic ?

Once I build my new subwoofers I will see where I stand and decide on a Bass EQ solution is needed.

scaramoucheii

 

[navin]

It is an old Frank Van Alstine Mod for tube amps.
Using just a high pass filter on the input I have experimented with 125 hz when using the Fostex Bibs and had good results ( when using a subwoofer with seperate amp of course) .

I did look at the Marchand website and the bass EQ they have looks quite reasonable. I could build on as well but currently have enough projects. Is the build simple ? I would gather that is would beed a bi polar power supply ... etc etc ... Do you have a schematic ? Once I build my new subwoofers I will see where I stand and decide on a Bass EQ solution is needed.

A friend of mine built me a bass eq (for my Carver 1.0t amp) using the OP275. intially we used pots to determine by ear what sounds best in my room, then we replaced the pots with metal film resistors. I think you will get an idea from this. http://www.snippets.org/filters/shivaeq.htm
http://www.antonine-education.co.uk/Electronics_AS/Electronics_Mod2/topic_2_8/active_filters.htm

What I do know is that for my room the boost we needed was not much. About 6db. Easily implemented by using one opamp per channel. I'll try and find the schemtaic. or maybe Apex Jr. has a kit that you can use http://www.aviastar.net/apexjr/speakerstuff.html

 

[chris661]

I had a similar problem, once upon a time.

I was new to the game and decided i should try building something. I can out with a box the the back was slanted to stop internal reflections, with a big bass port and a 10" PA driver. It went very loud, reasonably low and was enough to re-arrange furnature when needed. Then the amp went hot and smelly.

The box itself was 28L, so I got little in the way of continual bass from it, but the thuds from it were pretty powerful sounding

Sounded good though. Used a http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=21377 ......

Starting on a prject with 2x 8" drivers now....