I am trying to design a small sub for my home stereo system to augment the satellite speakers and I have run into a dilemma:
When I get the specs from the Parts express site I get radically different numbers than I get from the manufacturer....leading to really different cab volumes.
These are for a sealed sub using the Dayton RSS210HF-4 driver:
Specs listed on PE:
Fs: 27 Hz
Qts: 0.40
Qes: 0.47
Vas: 1.22 cu. Ft
EBP = 57.5
Vb = 0.5744
Specs listed on the Dayton data sheet:
Fs: 28.3
Qts: 0.50
Qes: 0.60
Vas: 1.144
EBP = 47.2
Vb = 1.15
Thats a difference of roughly 50%!
The numbers from the manufacturer seem a bit more "believable" as the PE numbers would yeild a ~10" cube....which would be sweet but I just can't believe anything that small would work.....I guess not much bracing would be needed.....
When I get the specs from the Parts express site I get radically different numbers than I get from the manufacturer....leading to really different cab volumes.
These are for a sealed sub using the Dayton RSS210HF-4 driver:
Specs listed on PE:
Fs: 27 Hz
Qts: 0.40
Qes: 0.47
Vas: 1.22 cu. Ft
EBP = 57.5
Vb = 0.5744
Specs listed on the Dayton data sheet:
Fs: 28.3
Qts: 0.50
Qes: 0.60
Vas: 1.144
EBP = 47.2
Vb = 1.15
Thats a difference of roughly 50%!
The numbers from the manufacturer seem a bit more "believable" as the PE numbers would yeild a ~10" cube....which would be sweet but I just can't believe anything that small would work.....I guess not much bracing would be needed.....
Frankly I'd take manufacturers specs as a general, not an exact set of parms.
The only way to be totally sure is to measure the T/S parms. yourself. You will find that they can be off by 15% or more from published. Not so much a problem in a sealed cab, but much more significant in a tuned enclosure.
OEM drivers in general seem to have greater variance vs drivers from the top name drivers.
The only way to be totally sure is to measure the T/S parms. yourself. You will find that they can be off by 15% or more from published. Not so much a problem in a sealed cab, but much more significant in a tuned enclosure.
OEM drivers in general seem to have greater variance vs drivers from the top name drivers.
Actually I was just suggesting running an impedance sweep and calculating the T/S specs.
Today the means to do so is much more reasonable than you may be aware.
I'm sure there are many veteran forum members here that can tell you how to convert a soundcard to a speaker tester. You would have to make a test jig.
Because I got tired of tuning my DIY efforts by ear a long time ago, I made a commitment to get quantitative.
I took the easy ( and more expensive ) route and bought a WTII, because I didn't want to go back to the old fashion chart recording of my youth.
As far as the room goes, the software is available to do RTA freq analysis for free or cheap - you would have to buy or build a capsule mic
Today the means to do so is much more reasonable than you may be aware.
I'm sure there are many veteran forum members here that can tell you how to convert a soundcard to a speaker tester. You would have to make a test jig.
Because I got tired of tuning my DIY efforts by ear a long time ago, I made a commitment to get quantitative.
I took the easy ( and more expensive ) route and bought a WTII, because I didn't want to go back to the old fashion chart recording of my youth.
As far as the room goes, the software is available to do RTA freq analysis for free or cheap - you would have to buy or build a capsule mic
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