Greets!
Just to let you know, all caps posting is considered 'yelling', so in the future please post accordingly, thanks!
For future reference, you can search the forum on the main page for any Low Rider/whatever threads, but didn't find any and going from dim memory, neither its published, and especially its actual measured, specs are all that suitable for a TH. Doesn't mean you can't use it in one, just that it will be super large and may not perform any better overall than a basic BR.
GM
Just to let you know, all caps posting is considered 'yelling', so in the future please post accordingly, thanks!
For future reference, you can search the forum on the main page for any Low Rider/whatever threads, but didn't find any and going from dim memory, neither its published, and especially its actual measured, specs are all that suitable for a TH. Doesn't mean you can't use it in one, just that it will be super large and may not perform any better overall than a basic BR.
GM
sorry for the CAPS
I keep caps lock on so sorry bout that...
I don't have much experience with the measuring and the whole logistics of it all but i like loud and deep so i came here after about a month and a half I'm still kind of lost.
So help.....
the woofers are currently sitting in EV t-18 boxes which to me doesn't cut the cake.
i want to take my sound system out to a gathering in may and make ppl hear something special (in other words blow everyone else away).
Dr. Fross
I keep caps lock on so sorry bout that...
I don't have much experience with the measuring and the whole logistics of it all but i like loud and deep so i came here after about a month and a half I'm still kind of lost.
So help.....
the woofers are currently sitting in EV t-18 boxes which to me doesn't cut the cake.
i want to take my sound system out to a gathering in may and make ppl hear something special (in other words blow everyone else away).
Dr. Fross
I don't know of any designs for the Peavey drivers... But I wouldn't mind to play around with hornresp if you'll like!
There is no "one-size fits all" subwoofer. So:
- what are your size limitations?
- limitations in dimensions?
- how do you intend to use them? Always big piles, or occasionally just a few?
So, provide as much information as you can, and maybe I/we can help you out
There is no "one-size fits all" subwoofer. So:
- what are your size limitations?
- limitations in dimensions?
- how do you intend to use them? Always big piles, or occasionally just a few?
So, provide as much information as you can, and maybe I/we can help you out
Lowriders are basically quintessential medium quality 18s intended for reflex use. They won't do well in tapped horns that require strong drivers. You can rule out Keystone, OTHORN, or TH18.
Realistically you CAN design a tapped horn that would work but I don't think I would bother. It' s going to need a physically massive box to sound good. Unless you don't mind moving truckloads of huge boxes that is. But with 16 drivers at your disposal I think I wouldn't bother.
EV T-18 boxes are very sensitive but drop like a rock below 55hz. That's with the stock drivers, at least. I don't know how well the lowriders work in that box, but I think it's safe to say like stock or worse due to parameter mismatch. Those boxes have plenty of punch but have little low end output.
I think what I'd do in your position is build some typical double 18 reflex boxes tuned to something more like 35-40hz. That extra 15hz or so of extension is going to cost you sensitivity and therefore max SPL. I've noticed that often lower tuned subwoofers can sound more powerful than higher tuned subs even if the higher tuned one is actually putting out more SPL. Especially when playing music that actually makes use of that low end.
It would be helpful to know what your lowriders look like. Peavey has used that name for a long time and the new ones aren't necessarily the same as the old ones.
Realistically you CAN design a tapped horn that would work but I don't think I would bother. It' s going to need a physically massive box to sound good. Unless you don't mind moving truckloads of huge boxes that is. But with 16 drivers at your disposal I think I wouldn't bother.
EV T-18 boxes are very sensitive but drop like a rock below 55hz. That's with the stock drivers, at least. I don't know how well the lowriders work in that box, but I think it's safe to say like stock or worse due to parameter mismatch. Those boxes have plenty of punch but have little low end output.
I think what I'd do in your position is build some typical double 18 reflex boxes tuned to something more like 35-40hz. That extra 15hz or so of extension is going to cost you sensitivity and therefore max SPL. I've noticed that often lower tuned subwoofers can sound more powerful than higher tuned subs even if the higher tuned one is actually putting out more SPL. Especially when playing music that actually makes use of that low end.
It would be helpful to know what your lowriders look like. Peavey has used that name for a long time and the new ones aren't necessarily the same as the old ones.
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Dance hall, reggae: scoops. Speakerplans.com
No idea if the low riders work with it (I doubt it) but you could build one and try... For another direction, you could look into PPSL designs.
http://speakerplans.com/index.php?id=18superscooper
No idea if the low riders work with it (I doubt it) but you could build one and try... For another direction, you could look into PPSL designs.
http://speakerplans.com/index.php?id=18superscooper
When you say "4 at a time" you mean four subwoofer boxes?
If you're still wanting horns you should know you're looking at needing to design something like 600 liters per box internally. They're going to be big. And that also means heavy.
My recommendation is still to build 2x18 boxes based on their manufacturer recommendations.
http://assets.peavey.com/literature/specs/117174_13678.pdf
I'd probably go for the "medium vented". You'll end up with a pretty reasonable box size and performance. All you need to do is take those single box dimensions, double the internal volume and use 4 vents instead of 2.
More specifics on your requirements would help. It's still pretty vague.
If you're still wanting horns you should know you're looking at needing to design something like 600 liters per box internally. They're going to be big. And that also means heavy.
My recommendation is still to build 2x18 boxes based on their manufacturer recommendations.
http://assets.peavey.com/literature/specs/117174_13678.pdf
I'd probably go for the "medium vented". You'll end up with a pretty reasonable box size and performance. All you need to do is take those single box dimensions, double the internal volume and use 4 vents instead of 2.
More specifics on your requirements would help. It's still pretty vague.
Dr.Fross,
Eight years ago yesterday designed a dual 15" tapped horn sub for Peavey Low riders for a friend, named it the "B-Low Rider", as it can do the low B on a 5 string bass justice.
You could just make larger speaker cut outs and scale the height up to fit your 18" (30.5" dimensions go to 36.5" or 37") and be stomping.
Art
Attachments
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That looks like a THAM-style fold. If that's the case, my THAM spreadsheet can probably be used to lay out the box dimensions and folds, and translate that to a HornResp sim. See attached.
Attachments
Brian,
You mean the Tham (October 2010) is a (January 2008) B-Low Rider style fold
These were the test results, done while a light snow fell, and snowmobiles were ripping past the speaker scaffold:
20 volt sine wave was applied, 100 watts at one meter.
Freq 30 35 40 45 50 55 60 70
dB 116 119 121 116 116 121 123 122
exc. 10 2.5 6 7 7 6 5 1 Excursion peak to peak mm.
dB 96 99 101 96 96 101 103 102 (one watt one meter)
The Low Rider X max is 9.6 mm. 9.6 x 2=19.2 mm peak to peak.
It looks like the cabinet could take 6-10 dB more power before reaching X max, so at 1000 watts 133 dB output would be expected.
The 15" Low Rider is rated 93.6 dB one watt one meter, two cones in a ported cabinet should do 96.6 dB, so it appears the horn is adding another 2-3 dB, good considering the low frequency extension.
At 25 cubic feet, this box is not for sissies. A dual 18" version would be really big, mon.
Art
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Brian,
You mean the Tham (October 2010) is a (January 2008) B-Low Rider style fold
ROFL - I'll need to adjust the name of the spreadsheet accordingly! Maybe call it the "ART-B-LOW" sheet
Just make sure you keep the hyphensROFL - I'll need to adjust the name of the spreadsheet accordingly! Maybe call it the "ART-B-LOW" sheet
you guys I'm guessing are professionals at this, well i should say i know you guys are professionals. but you got to dumb it down for me cause I'm not as technical with it as you guys.
bottom line is
Im a dj but i love bass and thats why I'm here
jus want a design to get the best out of theses drivers because the t-18 design to me isn't cutting the cake...
bottom line is
Im a dj but i love bass and thats why I'm here
jus want a design to get the best out of theses drivers because the t-18 design to me isn't cutting the cake...
Well the chest-hitting bass is made with frequencies 60hz <>120hz. It is the fast cone movement that cause the 'thud' on your chest. its partly the mid-bass that is causing this and even the mid section 100<>500hz that can punch you in the face. If you go lower you feel the lower parts of your body. You will notice if you do sweeps and testing on a full system on war volume, I did anyway...