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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2006
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Hello,
I am needing help designing a pair of cabinets for the high output reference drivers from dayton. They are the 12 inch drivers. I called they tech guys at pe and all the guy said was "go sealed". All of their drivers are meant for seald cabinets he said. Hmmm I don't think thats the case. I am going to be using 1 inch mdf and I was hoping for the driver on the front baffle along with a slot port. It be used 50/50 music and movies. What would be a good suggestion as a tuning frequency? I was thinking around 23 hz or so (I don't want to tune much lower than the fs of the driver right?). Any help would be great. I have done some searching only to find sono tubes with round ports. Thanks Dan |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Chamblee, Ga.
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Greets!
Hmm, for some reason I have two different sets of specs, so one may be measured. Oh well, regardless, either specs 'scream' sealed, so apparently they know what their drivers were designed for. Assuming a bit of room gain, it's usually safe to tune a sub as low as ~0.707*Fs, so that's the practical limit IMO in most cases, but Fs or below, the vent will still be so long that probably a more practical alignment would be a TQWT, i.e. just make the whole thing one big vent. High SQ and nearly the extension of an IB, so a plus for movies. GM
__________________
Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2006
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Thank you for the input. For some reason I thought these were designed for ported cabinets. What does TQWT stand for? Would the cabinet be huge? Would you be able to help me design the cabinet? You are saying with TQWT I will have good SQ for music and it will still reach the lower frequencies? How low?
Thank you Dan |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2006
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Is the high output version of this sub good for home audio use?
Dan |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
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Hi saabracer23,
FYI, The submitted picture shows a Ported ‘Fat-box’ simulation with your driver in mind; if you dare to follow this sub design. FYI, The submitted picture shows a Ported ‘Fat-box’ simulation with your driver in mind, if you dare to follow this sub design. Don’t pay too much attention to the ripple shown above > 140 Hz or the small dent at the Impulse plot that in reality will be blameless = minimal if you measure this speaker, due to the fact that this slot port should be stuffed and sectioned (i.e. or braced (reinforced)) to form at least 3 parallel, preferably irregular tubes that is so far too much for MJK: s program to handle correctly for the moment. b 1 (2) |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
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2(2)
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2006
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HAHAHA I am going to have to apologize but that is completly alien to me. Except for the graphs. Did that have the plans for the cabinet? If these are huge cabinets my problem will then be getting the wife's approval! I have decent wood working skills so I think I would be fine building them. If I went sealed what size cabinet should I go with to reach the lower 20s and still be fairly flat in response? How much better would the "fatbox" be than a sealed enclosure?
Thanks Dan |
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#8 | |
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Account disabled at member's request
Join Date: Mar 2007
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Quote:
Hi, It can be a little dense, no? The basic box size and design that bjorno has modeled is shown below. It would be approx. 16" wide x 26" tall x 24" deep. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2006
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oh thats not bad at all. Thanks, do you think it will perform nicely in that cabinet? Are those internal dimensions? How do I know how big to make the pieces for the horn/port and at what angle to put them at.
Thank you again all for the help! Dan |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2006
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Also what size cabinet would be good sealed.
I know I should have asked all of this earlier because the cabinets are being started bright and early tomorrow morning. I just want to make sure I get it right before I start. Thanks Dan |
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