Hello all.
I am looking to make dual rhythmik DS12's for my rig. I would like them to be front firing and have not found any plans on this site or the web.
If anyone has measurements for the enclosure I would appreciate it. I have access to a tablesaw with a fence but would just like to measure and cut. I really wish he would put front firing plans on his site for newbs like me.
Also, has anyone lined their enclosures with any dampening products?
I'm going to make these out of void free 3/4" plywood.
Thanks
~DS
I am looking to make dual rhythmik DS12's for my rig. I would like them to be front firing and have not found any plans on this site or the web.
If anyone has measurements for the enclosure I would appreciate it. I have access to a tablesaw with a fence but would just like to measure and cut. I really wish he would put front firing plans on his site for newbs like me.
Also, has anyone lined their enclosures with any dampening products?
I'm going to make these out of void free 3/4" plywood.
Thanks
~DS
http://www.rythmikaudio.com/DS12driver.html
the perimeters for the driver is here, i think this is the one you mean?
just run some box plots for sealed/vented, this will give u the size of the enclosure, and the length/ diameter of the ports (if needed)
i can give u a few plots if u like, do u want a flat response, or a low tuning, i think flat to 30hz looks obtainable at first glance, or u could lose some output and tune it lower
the perimeters for the driver is here, i think this is the one you mean?
just run some box plots for sealed/vented, this will give u the size of the enclosure, and the length/ diameter of the ports (if needed)
i can give u a few plots if u like, do u want a flat response, or a low tuning, i think flat to 30hz looks obtainable at first glance, or u could lose some output and tune it lower
i made a simple design, but u may have to make some trade offs if its to large
each driver needs the following
4 cubic foot box
10cm diameter port 40cm long for a tuning of 20hz
10cm diameter port 30cm long for a tuning of 23hz
bass will be flat to 30hz and -3db point is at 20hz, don't forget 2 use a filter below 20hz
each driver needs the following
4 cubic foot box
10cm diameter port 40cm long for a tuning of 20hz
10cm diameter port 30cm long for a tuning of 23hz
bass will be flat to 30hz and -3db point is at 20hz, don't forget 2 use a filter below 20hz
Rythmik kits
Hello,
If you're talking about purchasing a subwoofer KIT from Rythmik, than box size isn't as big a deal, as the servo will "equalize" for flat response to 12 Hz regardless of box size, although a larger box will require less power and thus reduce thermal compression, although that is negated due to the aforementioned servo, in which case the CORRECT box size serves as a protection from overexcursion due to limiting the amps ability to bottom out the driver by requiring more power than the amp can deliver to bottom the driver - thus protecting it.
I would unconditionally state that a subwoofer KIT (as opposed to just the driver) from Rythmik would outperform anything you could put together.
My recommendation would be to get the kit. I have the 15", and as high as my expectations were, they were surpassed. A 12" should be the exact same with slightly less maximum output capability.
For the front-firing, I'd imagine you could just take the plans he has, and rotate the entire thing, and put the legs at the bottom. At the wavelengths involved, the subwoofer does not mind any minor difference in box dimensions, shape, etc. You just want to make sure there's a few inches from the driver to the nearest wall, and from any vent to the nearest surface.
Hope this helps,
-Tal
Hello,
If you're talking about purchasing a subwoofer KIT from Rythmik, than box size isn't as big a deal, as the servo will "equalize" for flat response to 12 Hz regardless of box size, although a larger box will require less power and thus reduce thermal compression, although that is negated due to the aforementioned servo, in which case the CORRECT box size serves as a protection from overexcursion due to limiting the amps ability to bottom out the driver by requiring more power than the amp can deliver to bottom the driver - thus protecting it.
I would unconditionally state that a subwoofer KIT (as opposed to just the driver) from Rythmik would outperform anything you could put together.
My recommendation would be to get the kit. I have the 15", and as high as my expectations were, they were surpassed. A 12" should be the exact same with slightly less maximum output capability.
For the front-firing, I'd imagine you could just take the plans he has, and rotate the entire thing, and put the legs at the bottom. At the wavelengths involved, the subwoofer does not mind any minor difference in box dimensions, shape, etc. You just want to make sure there's a few inches from the driver to the nearest wall, and from any vent to the nearest surface.
Hope this helps,
-Tal
2.4f^3 should work just fine.
18"x18"x17" using .75" material will give you 2.44f^3. I would recommend you either double up your material or build the box a little larger to account for much needed bracing if you go with just the .75" material. Something around 18.75"x18.75"x19".
If you double up your material, something around 18.50"x18.50"x19"
18"x18"x17" using .75" material will give you 2.44f^3. I would recommend you either double up your material or build the box a little larger to account for much needed bracing if you go with just the .75" material. Something around 18.75"x18.75"x19".
If you double up your material, something around 18.50"x18.50"x19"
"I would unconditionally state that a subwoofer KIT (as opposed to just the driver) from Rythmik would outperform anything you could put together. "
that's a bold/broad statement. i have a "single 15 driver" home built sub that would make for an interesting contest.
i can't take credit for the design (http://www.billfitzmaurice.com/THT.html) i looked at Rhythmic before building the THT (i first built the TT) the idea of servo=less distortion is attractive, but the low distortion of the horn made the 'delta' less significant based on my research (vs coming from a ported sub) so what i had was clean enough. i just waned more efficiency. and you can't argue with the efficiency of what i linked to above.
since i had the amp and EQ (QSC RMX and DEQ2496) i built the whole sub for pretty cheap (driver $160, tho there's an 'approved one for $70; $100 for wood (good birch ply) and adhesives and brads)
"I would unconditionally state that a subwoofer KIT (as opposed to just the driver) from Rythmik would outperform anything you could put together. " <giggle>
Bill's stuff is 'par excellance' and tough to beat if you have the space. That's not your average Living Room.
Rythmic nothin to sneeze at. Beats 90 + % out there IMHO.
'Space limited'? AE's 15" IB at their deal price of $100 per driver . No one makes a driver of that quality at that price level. At 3 times that price level , matter of fact. These guys work for a living. I personally think IB sound most natural.
Bluto
Rythmic nothin to sneeze at. Beats 90 + % out there IMHO.
'Space limited'? AE's 15" IB at their deal price of $100 per driver . No one makes a driver of that quality at that price level. At 3 times that price level , matter of fact. These guys work for a living. I personally think IB sound most natural.
Bluto
disclaimer!
Alright, what I should of added is, "constrained to a "practical" sized box" Rythmik are pretty impressive.
Fitzmaurice's tradeoff is to use a horn, which ups the efficiency which drops the excursion which drops the distortion, ALTHOUGH the driver used (no criticism, just a different compromise chosen) is much higher distortion, which makes sense given the acoustic advantage of the horn, and the very conservative budget used in his designs.
For price/performance, Fitzmaurice's designs are probably unbeatable on the market. Ignoring price, and limited to a relatively small box size, the extension/speed/distortion of a well-engineered servo subwoofer is very difficult to beat, apples to apples.
An array of subwoofers in an IB (a la the manifold into the attic) is pretty unbeatable compared to anything, as it completely eliminates thermal compression, box Q resonance, and a host of other problems.
But for a simple and quick solution which is still in the highest echelons of performance, I would unhesitatingly recommend Rythmik. That's all...
Hope this is more grounded than before!
cheers,
-Tal
Alright, what I should of added is, "constrained to a "practical" sized box" Rythmik are pretty impressive.
Fitzmaurice's tradeoff is to use a horn, which ups the efficiency which drops the excursion which drops the distortion, ALTHOUGH the driver used (no criticism, just a different compromise chosen) is much higher distortion, which makes sense given the acoustic advantage of the horn, and the very conservative budget used in his designs.
For price/performance, Fitzmaurice's designs are probably unbeatable on the market. Ignoring price, and limited to a relatively small box size, the extension/speed/distortion of a well-engineered servo subwoofer is very difficult to beat, apples to apples.
An array of subwoofers in an IB (a la the manifold into the attic) is pretty unbeatable compared to anything, as it completely eliminates thermal compression, box Q resonance, and a host of other problems.
But for a simple and quick solution which is still in the highest echelons of performance, I would unhesitatingly recommend Rythmik. That's all...
Hope this is more grounded than before!
cheers,
-Tal
Re: disclaimer!
that's better
ALTHOUGH the driver used (no criticism, just a different compromise chosen) is much higher distortion
and as long as i stay in the 12MM xmax of my driver http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=295-469 i would think the distortion specs of the driver itself would be fine. isn't 'driver distortion' more a factor with exceeding the gap (and the whole underhung driver arguement)
agreed on box size - that was actually another reason why i checked them out, the whole WAF. now i just built my THT when she was out of town, and it's too heavy for her to throw it out, so it's staying
taloyd said:
that's better ALTHOUGH the driver used (no criticism, just a different compromise chosen) is much higher distortion
and as long as i stay in the 12MM xmax of my driver http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=295-469 i would think the distortion specs of the driver itself would be fine. isn't 'driver distortion' more a factor with exceeding the gap (and the whole underhung driver arguement)
agreed on box size - that was actually another reason why i checked them out, the whole WAF. now i just built my THT when she was out of town, and it's too heavy for her to throw it out, so it's staying
I love it ... Everyone actually does agree!
My new system will be Hawthorne SI OB mains with AE IB Subs accented with CSS FR125 little Horns.
Just happens to be what I think will work best in my mid size room.
Basement HT will use Bills big horns for sub duty.
You gotta do what your room calls for. Frugally. Unless you're a member of the Athens Audio Club.
Bluto
My new system will be Hawthorne SI OB mains with AE IB Subs accented with CSS FR125 little Horns.
Just happens to be what I think will work best in my mid size room.
Basement HT will use Bills big horns for sub duty.
You gotta do what your room calls for. Frugally. Unless you're a member of the Athens Audio Club.
Bluto
Thanks for this. I read somewhere else on here that increasing the mass of the enclosure isnt necessarily a good thing and that strength is preferable. On that idea, I was thinking about making them out of 1" void free plywood vs. doubling up the MDF. I also can source the hMDF locally but I think the overall tensile strength of voidfree plywood is greater?
"2.4f^3 should work just fine.
18"x18"x17" using .75" material will give you 2.44f^3. I would recommend you either double up your material or build the box a little larger to account for much needed bracing if you go with just the .75" material. Something around 18.75"x18.75"x19".
If you double up your material, something around 18.50"x18.50"x19""
"2.4f^3 should work just fine.
18"x18"x17" using .75" material will give you 2.44f^3. I would recommend you either double up your material or build the box a little larger to account for much needed bracing if you go with just the .75" material. Something around 18.75"x18.75"x19".
If you double up your material, something around 18.50"x18.50"x19""
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