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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Chicago
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I just moved into an apartment that I will be in for the next year and need a bed frame. I have considered just buying an ikea frame but I am considering making a cheap plywood frame for my bed that is also a horn subwoofer. My thinking is that for the price of a frame I can build a cool project. The max size of the frame would be 53"X76" and should probably be not much thicker then the sub used. I would have to do this very cheap so I would be using the cheapest driver I can find (unless someone has one to donate) and any amp I can find to use which will be low passed by the computer it will be connected to. If I do decide to build this the side of the enclosure that is facing the floor will not have a board, it will use the carpeted floor to seal the enclosure. I don't need huge bass but I want it to be listenable. Normally I would not go with a horn for bass but with the size of my enclosure being able to be so large I figured it might be a fun thing to try. The only other horn or I should say horn like enclosure I have built is the wicked one on the decware site. That sub was unreal for the 2 8" I put it in. I thought about scaling the design up but I would like to keep costs down by only using one sub. Do you guys think this is a worthwhile endeavor? Are there any plans online for something like this that has been done before (I have yet to find any)? Any design or part recommendations?
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#2 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
I don't think you will get acceptable results like that. You should seal the other side. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Avalon Island
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Sounds like fun
__________________
Just because you can't hear it doesn't mean no one can. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Bergen
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Rob van Ede did something like that a few years ago. His website is gone, but here are a couple of archived pages:
http://web.archive.org/web/200301220...old/index.html http://web.archive.org/web/200301011...reo/index.html Frode |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Chamblee, Ga.
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Huh! I thought that was Bert Doppenberg's first all horn system. Anyway, isn't qi's B@$3 WC all folded up inside his bed frame? What about a TH with a high Q driver to keep the HF BW < 80 - 100 Hz?
GM
__________________
Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
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What Id do is start with a an affordable 12"
Perhaps something like this Punisher http://www.speakerstore.nl/index.php?l=nl&pg=11&c=21 ![]() + a flare extender to reach a little lower,to ~40hz. Ported would be a hell of alot easier |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: UK
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Personally I've got to disagree with the punisher suggestion as the only plots I've seen of it looked nowhere near subwoofer duty. (60 hz ?)
Maybe as a 2 way sub with a large ebs below or even a 6th order BP but not on its own. However maybe the flare extender could change it a lot ? Personally I'd be looking at either TL's or tapped horns, neither of which I'm any good at designing Rob. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Rotterdam, NL
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Instead of the Punisher, the Stepped Horn, using the same driver (and from the same designer) is much more suited for home use. The Punisher is basically ment for >40 Hz, in stacks of 4 or more. The Stepped horn will get a solid 30 Hz on it's own.
http://www.speakerstore.nl/index.php?l=nl&pg=11&c=61 It's longest side is 67", other sides are about 15" each. From the tapped horns I build so far, nice results for home use are easy to achieve and easy to design, using drivers with Qts between 0.3 and 0.4 (fs ~1/2 octave above cuttoff) and this build model: http://img155.imagevenue.com/img.php...122_1037lo.JPG With L12 and L34 ~same length (10 -20"). Johan
__________________
Impossibilities we do immediatly, miracles take slightly longer. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
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DJNUBZ,
The carpet won't seal enough to work,I have tried it. A large bass horn in an apartment could be a problem with the neighbors... Anyway,here's a plan for a 31 hz horn using the MCM-55-2421 8" driver,$35 from mcmelectronics. Make the top piece the same size as the mattress,round off the corners to avoid banging your shins. Not sure what optimum size is for backchamber,maybe 1 cu ft or so.Might even work fine without it. This is the same driver Bill Fitzmaurice recommends for his AutoTuba,or TableTuba,which might be of interest to you,if you wish to make something more conventional. http://img244.imageshack.us/img244/4861/bedsubyd0.jpg |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Chicago
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Don that is kinda what I am looking for. Big, cheap and simple. I know that sealing against the carpet is not ideal but I am also kinda using that as a attenuator to keep to much bass from being produced and bothering my neighbors. What I may do is seal the rear chamber of the sub and leave the rest to seal to the floor. Luckily my building has very thick cinder block walls and sound does not transfer and I am on the ground floor.
The MCM sub is the right price but I am curious if you think a tangband sub might be better. |
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