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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
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Hello fellow helpers….Well I hope.
I have had this 15 inch for some time and I have some time to build a cabinet for this unit, I’m a cabinet maker by trade so I think I could do a good job on this unit. Speaker specs, D=320 Re=3.6 Fs=22.05 Qms-2.68 Qes=0.77 Qts=0.60 Vas=294.35 Bl=10.15 But I need the electronic brains in the design of the box. I have punched the specs into UniBox and on a vented arrangement of 100L I’m getting an Fb of 16Hz and F3 31Hz..does this sound ok?? I really don’t want to go much bigger then 100L. Thanks in advance.
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If it aint broken, then FIX it! |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Chamblee, Ga.
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Greets!
Not really, but then it doesn't look any better in 100 L sealed since it wants around 500 L. Even aperiodic ideally needs to be = Vas, so for 100 L and go low the only way I know to do it is sealed with EQ such as a Linkwitz-Riley Transform (LRT). Unless it's a high excursion/power driver though, it won't play very loud down low without distorting due to the low effective efficiency. GM
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Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2005
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Looks like an IB driver, so maybe dipole(OB) or "ripole"(folded dipole) will work
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
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Hmmm...
So I will be wasting my time with this unit. I have a Automotive 12 inch unit- xmax=12 vas=62l fs=28.5 qts=0.35 qms=3.95 qes0.391 would this one be better suited? This is great...
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If it aint broken, then FIX it! |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
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Your 15 inch driver is probably intended for infinite bafle car use, so it actually has little use if any...
This other driver is likely to give you better results because it has a moderate Qts.
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
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I have the Dayton IB 15" with similar specs to your sub, I have mine in a 17" x 17" x 22" deep U-frame and am quite happy with it for both music and movies. A simple 5 sided box with 1.5" thick baffle and it is quite nice.
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Conventional methods yield conventional results |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
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nunayafb,
Could you fill in some gaps? Proted? Is it braced, filled? Sorry for the sill Q. I need to do something with it, or the 12inch. Thanks.
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If it aint broken, then FIX it! |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
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U-frame is an open baffle arrangement, read the linkwitz website, or search for U and H frames and you will get everything you need to make a decision.
I have not braced it yet as I am planning on placing sonotube inside. Stuffing, have not experimented with it yet but I'm sure it will provide some benefits. To clarify, the sub that I am using is going to be part of 4-way towers where each tower has one of these subs. I haven't completed it yet so it is neither aesthetically nor acoustically finished (not stuffed/braced, painted) -J
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Conventional methods yield conventional results |
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#9 |
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Account Disabled
Join Date: Dec 2007
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actually his 15" is probably not intended for anything at all
have you ever considered that it was intended to look like a speaker so somebody would buy it ? this is the exact way 90% of car speakers are "designed" you still could use that 15" in an aperiodic box ... it would even work ... i would not bother to actually build a box for such a woofer though the 12" seems alright on the other hand ... you could build a normal vented subwoofer out of it. |
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#10 | ||||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
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Quote:
You have very strong opinions, that's fine. But people are going to start asking you to back them up, many here have varying combinations of theoretical studies and hands on experience and when they provide input they back it up with one or both. Quote:
Quote:
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