15 inch Cabinet Design??

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"how you manage to draw satisfaction from not understanding speaker operation is beyond me.

there is nothing wrong with not understanding certain things ... but what is so funny about understanding them ?"


What I said was, There is no need for you to explain,

Since you insist on saying that vas and qts dont matter in this and other thread . Instead you said mms, bL and etc etc. what only matter, Of coarse they do. But by saying so , YOu make easy things more complicated and the results are the same .You are misleading people here, especially the beginners.

And you sound like my father, You're always right even when you're wrong, and you're so argumnentative :D kinda annoying though.
 
:cop:

Gentlemen, that's enough. If at any point you find another member annoying, you have the option of adding them to your ignore list.

vasyachkin,
I'm not certain what your motives are but you seem to have had the luxury of individuals less acquainted with the finer points of loudspeaker design in previous arguments. I am going to ask that you discontinue your current modus operandi and begin to realize that your statements are not making a lot of sense to many of us here. It's fine to have an opinion but to rebuke the usefulness of TS parameters tells me one of two things: You either have a greater knowledge of loudspeakers than some individuals considerably older and more experienced than yourself or you simply think you do.

To the rest of you, I suggest we not continue along these lines.

Thank you.
 
Sorry Chico, lets try this:

If you are not sure which way to go lets try both!

If you build a 17"x17"x22" box (external dims) with .75" mdf you will end up with about 3.2 ft^3 internal, this will provide an EBS3 alignment for the 12" with a 4" x 14.72" port rear mount for simplicity. If you use removable baffles (see following pic) you can use this for the 12 and the 15, which will be in a U-frame like mine which I am quite happy with. BTW U frames need to be kept away from the back wall, read the linkwitz website for more info.

The following winisd plot shows in gray a quasi-butterworth alignment for the 12 and the EBS3 (red) plus IB alignment for the 15" (yellow), just for reference purposes though.
 

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Alright that pic turned out bad, the steep rolloff grayish line is the butterworth alignment, the other is the 15"

The next pic shows what I mean for removable baffles and such, this is not complete, you'll need to dimension everything and add bracing and such. But it should give you enough to get going on the "di" part of "diy" I think you will learn a lot from trying this project.

In addition if you use a shelf brace inside with a single large cutout (plus port hole) you can close it off and hear how the QB alignment will sound as well, all you have to do is locate the brace where it will create a 1.3ft^3 space in front of it.
 

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BTW, what brand/model 12" is this? A pity you're so space limited, it kicks 'booty', pounding your eyeballs flat in a simple corner loaded ~300 L tapped horn if the specs are reasonably accurate:

GM
 

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Chicho,FYI

Based on the given 12" DVC woofer data:

xmax=12
vas=62l
fs=28.5
qts=0.35
qms=3.95
qes0.391

See your 12” driver data somewhat expanded and simulated in picture 1(2).
If the referred TS data are true and collected when using one of the coils, the Qts value will be modified from 0.35 to 0.1853 when the coils is series or paralleled, also note that the coils in series will double the BL value.

If the driver coils are connected in series and parallel and put in a 50L ported box, see picture 2(2).

b

1(2)
 

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