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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Euless, TX
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I'm going to incorporate a Dayton SD215-88 ( http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...number=295-480 ) into a portable boombox. I'm going to power the DVC sub with a 2 channel amp. I dont have any impedance plot except for the Dayton provided one. I'm wanting to cross it over at around 200hz @ 12dB. Can anybody help me out? How close could I get by using the Dayton provided impedance curve?
Thanks! |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Chamblee, Ga.
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Greets!
Pretty close once you add a zobel to flatten it, but the 3.75 ohm non-inductive power resistor and 85 - 88 uF cap's going to be kind of large to fit in a boombox, not to mention make it run hot, so a line level XO seems a better choice: http://www.t-linespeakers.org/tech/f...ssiveHLxo.html GM
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Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Stockholm
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Well, passive filters at 200 Hz is often problematic due to the impedance curve of the driver. Below is an example of a cookbook filter (green curve) and what happens when it is applied to the complex load of the driver. When the values are "fiddled" a bit, it looks a bit better (blue curve).
![]() I think this highlights the need for simulations when designing passive filters . The impedance of the blue system is probably too low to be useful, though.
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Euless, TX
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I'll try the PLLXO route then. It seems easy enough (even for me). I have no idea how to choose R1 though. But if I were to choose 10kohms would this be correct for a 2nd order lowpass @ 200hz?
R1 = 10kohms C1 = 80nF R2 = 100kohms C2 = 8nF Is this right? |
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Bellevue, WA
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Quote:
For example, if your amplifier's input impedance is 100kohms, then your above filter would result in about 3db insertion loss. If the input impedance is 10kohms, then insertion loss is closer to 11db. As you reduce R2, insertion loss gets smaller, but so does R1. Since R1 is the lowest impedance the preamp will see, you can't reduce it forever. I think 10x output impedance is a minimum, but hopefully someone with more knowledge than I will chime in with a better answer. Dan |
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#6 |
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Audio Engineer
diyAudio Member
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Hi, is there no way you can use an active filter before the amps. You will get a much more predictable crossover and better control of the drive units as there will be less resistance between the amp and the driver coil.
Regards, Andrew |
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#7 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Bristol, UK
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Quote:
+1 active is always better than passive... cheaper and better sound quality.
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Fairmount, GA
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I'm in planning stage of similar project. Planning to use a DVC sub woofer. Was going to use active filter but concerned about Power supply. Going to run car radio with ac power supply. An active filter would require another amp and would be considerable challenge to power supply.
See if this helps. http://www.apicsllc.com/apics/Misc/filter2.html
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Poor stereo mix? Switch to mono! Perfect. |
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#9 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Bristol, UK
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Quote:
AC PSU? Look into getting +-5v from your cars electrical system, it shouldn't be too hard. Try not to use AC in your car unless you are making your own SPMS.
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Fairmount, GA
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Quote:
Plan to use AC power instead of battery. Tho, a batery could be used if no power available. Am now considering a matched component system and be done with it. Like this
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Poor stereo mix? Switch to mono! Perfect. |
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