My XXLS Subwoofer building thread...

harrisni · 27th October 2007, 09:55 PM

Hi All,

After much thought I've decided to use the following for my first subwoofer:

Peerless 830844 12" XXLS (4ohm)
Peerless 830548 Passive Radiator
Dayton HPSA1000 Plate Amplifier (500/8ohm, 1000/4ohm)

Cost: $950 AUD plus wood and finishing.

The box volume is 1.5 cubic feet (43L),

External dimensions: 16x16x16" (40.5x40.5x40.5cm)
Internal dimensions: 14x1414" (35x35x35cm)

I'm using this design from Solen as a template:

Sample Solen Design

According to the Solen Design it will go down to 18hz and produce 122db at 25hz, this was based on a 240/8ohm, 370/4ohm amplifier, I'm hoping to get better results with triple the power in 4ohms.

I'm going to finish the box in Piano Black.

What you guys think?

harrisni · 27th October 2007, 11:37 PM

23 views and no comments?

Come on guys!

Also whats the best way to measure the subwoofers output? With a mic and what software?

tktran303 · 28th October 2007, 12:04 AM

Hi,

Have you put the figures into a modelling program, like Unibox?

There you will get an idea of excursion limited SPL, and power requirements needed to reach that limit, and you can compare between different box alignments.

Where will you be getting the Dayton amp from?

An alternative is the O-Audio 500W, with some nice features such as parametric EQ.

best regards,
Thanh.

harrisni · 28th October 2007, 12:35 AM

I'm not sure I have done it correctly though, I have attached the unibox file:

UniBox file

newfinish · 28th October 2007, 06:18 PM

the xls 12 inch with passif was used with a 360watt and it bottomed out. so using 1000W will just not be good.
`f you want real bass at that sound pressure with 1000watts
go with aura 15 inch.neo magnet very low bass.fast to.

Cro maniac · 28th October 2007, 07:34 PM

I have recently built a sub with Peerless 830844 with PR in a 45liter box.
At the moment I use two LM3886 gainclone monoblocks bridged to power the sub (around 150 watts). The sub is now a little underpowered, but I think that anything more than 350-400W would be an overkill because even with a small amount of power I'm using it can still make a lot of cone movement and decent clean output.

My Peerless-based sub:

harrisni · 28th October 2007, 07:37 PM

Hi,

Cool, thanks for the information.

What do you use the subwoofer for? Music or HT?

Done any measurements on it?

Cro maniac · 28th October 2007, 08:00 PM

I use it for both !
I haven't done any measurements yet, but the sub is very musical, integrates easy because of very low distortion (now it is placed right by my legs, but I can't 'hear' him, the bass I hear is coming only from the mains), and can reach the lowest octave with no problem.

I have first made a sub as a low Q closed box with only 830844 on front baffle and with Linkwitz transformer in the preamp. My room is relatively small and I had problems with integration. I couldn't hear any sub bass on the place I sit regardless on where I placed the sub, but the upper bass was perfectly clean and tight. Then I turned the sub downwards to the floor and realised that my sub has become a beast that shakes the tiles in my bathroom when I watch The Fifth Element, but has lost some of the musicality and tightness when I listen to music. So I ordered myself a Passive Radiator and mounted it on the bottom side of the box. Now I have the best of both worlds, and the sensitivity has also increased.

If you want to increase maximum output from one driver, I would suggest using 2 passive radiators instead of one because PR runs out of excursion much before the active driver does.

harrisni · 28th October 2007, 08:05 PM

Same box size with 2 PR's?

Cro maniac · 28th October 2007, 08:21 PM

For 2 PR's and the same frequency response as with one PR in 42liter box WinIsd says that you would have to use 250grams of added mass to PR cones.

A pair of 10" PR's would be also a good choice. 2 of them don't need any added mass to cones, they are cheaper that a pair of 12", and give about 3dB of headroom compared to one 12"PR.

27th October 2007, 09:55 PM	#1
harrisni diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2006	My XXLS Subwoofer building thread... Hi All, After much thought I've decided to use the following for my first subwoofer: Peerless 830844 12" XXLS (4ohm) Peerless 830548 Passive Radiator Dayton HPSA1000 Plate Amplifier (500/8ohm, 1000/4ohm) Cost: $950 AUD plus wood and finishing. The box volume is 1.5 cubic feet (43L), External dimensions: 16x16x16" (40.5x40.5x40.5cm) Internal dimensions: 14x1414" (35x35x35cm) I'm using this design from Solen as a template: Sample Solen Design According to the Solen Design it will go down to 18hz and produce 122db at 25hz, this was based on a 240/8ohm, 370/4ohm amplifier, I'm hoping to get better results with triple the power in 4ohms. I'm going to finish the box in Piano Black. What you guys think?

Thread Tools	Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Email this Page	Search this Thread: Advanced Search

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
TQWT Concrete cabinet attempt, building thread.	h@kan	Full Range	28	16th July 2010 04:23 PM
Building Audiophile Sub with Peerless's XXLS 830845	Tiff_Needle	Subwoofers	32	5th May 2008 06:40 PM
First Subwoofer Project: XXLS	DcibeL	Subwoofers	29	31st May 2005 07:57 PM
Gainclone building thread based on BrianGT's boards	meat	Chip Amps	752	8th August 2004 06:25 AM

New To Site?	Need Help?
Register to Participate Search Privacy Statement Contact Us	Frequently Asked Questions Did you forget your password? Mark Forums Read


	Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you. Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving

27th October 2007, 11:37 PM	#2
harrisni diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2006	23 views and no comments? Come on guys! Also whats the best way to measure the subwoofers output? With a mic and what software?

28th October 2007, 12:04 AM	#3
tktran303 diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Perth, WA	Hi, Have you put the figures into a modelling program, like Unibox? There you will get an idea of excursion limited SPL, and power requirements needed to reach that limit, and you can compare between different box alignments. Where will you be getting the Dayton amp from? An alternative is the O-Audio 500W, with some nice features such as parametric EQ. best regards, Thanh.

28th October 2007, 12:35 AM	#4
harrisni diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2006	I'm not sure I have done it correctly though, I have attached the unibox file: UniBox file

28th October 2007, 06:18 PM	#5
newfinish diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Quebec	the xls 12 inch with passif was used with a 360watt and it bottomed out. so using 1000W will just not be good. `f you want real bass at that sound pressure with 1000watts go with aura 15 inch.neo magnet very low bass.fast to.

28th October 2007, 07:34 PM	#6
Cro maniac diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Zagreb, Croatia Blog Entries: 2	I have recently built a sub with Peerless 830844 with PR in a 45liter box. At the moment I use two LM3886 gainclone monoblocks bridged to power the sub (around 150 watts). The sub is now a little underpowered, but I think that anything more than 350-400W would be an overkill because even with a small amount of power I'm using it can still make a lot of cone movement and decent clean output. My Peerless-based sub:

28th October 2007, 07:37 PM	#7
harrisni diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2006	Hi, Cool, thanks for the information. What do you use the subwoofer for? Music or HT? Done any measurements on it?

28th October 2007, 08:00 PM	#8
Cro maniac diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Zagreb, Croatia Blog Entries: 2	I use it for both ! I haven't done any measurements yet, but the sub is very musical, integrates easy because of very low distortion (now it is placed right by my legs, but I can't 'hear' him, the bass I hear is coming only from the mains), and can reach the lowest octave with no problem. I have first made a sub as a low Q closed box with only 830844 on front baffle and with Linkwitz transformer in the preamp. My room is relatively small and I had problems with integration. I couldn't hear any sub bass on the place I sit regardless on where I placed the sub, but the upper bass was perfectly clean and tight. Then I turned the sub downwards to the floor and realised that my sub has become a beast that shakes the tiles in my bathroom when I watch The Fifth Element, but has lost some of the musicality and tightness when I listen to music. So I ordered myself a Passive Radiator and mounted it on the bottom side of the box. Now I have the best of both worlds, and the sensitivity has also increased. If you want to increase maximum output from one driver, I would suggest using 2 passive radiators instead of one because PR runs out of excursion much before the active driver does.

28th October 2007, 08:05 PM	#9
harrisni diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2006	Same box size with 2 PR's?

28th October 2007, 08:21 PM	#10
Cro maniac diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Zagreb, Croatia Blog Entries: 2	For 2 PR's and the same frequency response as with one PR in 42liter box WinIsd says that you would have to use 250grams of added mass to PR cones. A pair of 10" PR's would be also a good choice. 2 of them don't need any added mass to cones, they are cheaper that a pair of 12", and give about 3dB of headroom compared to one 12"PR.