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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: MTL
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I have just tried a dual "car sub " box on my Bryston
4BST that was given to me by a friend ... he wasn't able to drive it with any amp at all.. well to be able to drive only 1 sub ( 4ohm ) i had to bridge my 4B to mono output wich gives 800W@8ohm ( ~ 1500W @ 4ohm supposdly ) and i was only barely able to drive it at all with all my sources and all at maximum power ... now i wonder, why would someone want a subwoofer that is so hard to move? ain't the point of a loudpseaker to actually move? i can punch right in the sub without it moving much ( i can't even push it to bottom out ) the suspension is rubber that is probably 1/4" thick and is hard to even move at all with my finger's nail please explain .. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Anonymityville
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It's so kids can send 5000 watts to their subs at 20hz without the thing bottoming out. Efficiency means nothing when your 18 years old and just want to make noise.
The spider is there to control the cone at low frequencies. At higher frequencies the motor actually controls the cone. I had a 10" sub in a car once that the spider came detached from. When I played frequencies above 50-60hz the sub played fine; if I went any lower the cone would lose control and start flapping around and bottoming out. I say sell the thing to some kid looking to make noise and buy yourself something more useful.
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"If you don't like funerals don't kick sand in Ninja's face." - Ninja |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: MTL
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i never thought about using it at all for myself
was just playing with it, and astonished to see that something that stiff can actually give out some sound I still don't understand the goal of having to push 2000000000 trillion watts in a subwoofer to make some noise ... there must be something more i don't think that any amplifier that goes up to 2000W+ @ 4ohm can do it with anything less than 1-2%HD Isn't the goal to try and match the air impedance as much as posisble like when using horns?? that thing is just like 100000000000 times the mass/stiffness of the air to move .. need more explanation ..still don't get it at all! |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Huntington Beach, Ca
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im no expert on this but obviously this sub isnt gonna hit those lows without hella watts. But it probably hits those low to high mids pretty "stiff". I bet a couple of those subs and a couple more efficient subs would really fill in the tightness and the low end. For like metal, or hardcore metal, or even drum and bass.
I can see where they could be of use. But not worth the hassle maybe. I dont know but i think for the most part efficient subs sometimes are almost to efficient for the high and low mids. I listen to metal and rock mostly so if you think of a kick drum i like to hear and feel the slap, and the thud, along with the low end of it in the room.
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"Nothing happens for a reason. There are just reasons why things happen." Quote me on that. http://stores.ebay.com/AudioGrade?_rdc=1 |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Calais, ME
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These subs just don't happen to be RED and the brand starts with the letter "V".
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AmpsLab.com |
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Anonymityville
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Quote:
Volfenhagen
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"If you don't like funerals don't kick sand in Ninja's face." - Ninja |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: MTL
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nothing written on em ..
i was told by the guy they are from " SWAN" or whatever brand ...i believe that he doesn't even know.. they sure are hell heavy ...probably 150lbs for this 3/4" case and 2 12" how can it play tight ? i don't see how a plastic plate ( cause this is what it is ) can play any sound good .. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Bath, UK
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Don't forget the acoustic environment this thing is supposed to work with is radically different to most room / acoustic issues. It is about achieving high power handling in a cabin, maybe 3cu.m^3, and little else. The cone suspension is designed to be 1)hysteretic and 2) robust, because , with 'cabin gain', it doesnt actually have to be efficient - only to withstand the onslaughts of the nasty amps it will be tested with.
Just my 2c. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Georgetown, On
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Hi JinMTVT,
There is a trend to design subs as stiff pistons rather than rely on T/S parameters. The ones I saw could easily support a man's weight without damage. Although the suspension was also stiffer, what you are describing is off the map. It appears that these were designed to absorb power rather than deliver "music". -Chris
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"Just because you can, doesn't mean you should" © my Wife |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Sask. Canada
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Alot of the "thick rubber surround "car subs are really stiff when they're new. Thet need to "break in" for awhile before they loosen up. If it's an SPL sub it will have a FS in the mid 30's and be built to get loud at one frequency. What may be adding to the stiffness is the subs being in too small a box. It would be intersting to find out what brand they are and see what the T/S parameters are.
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