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#11 | |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
more here http://www.t-linespeakers.org/projects/steve/index.html (althou this example is not what i'd call well coupled) dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#12 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
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I too can wholeheartedly recommend mounting the drivers magnet to magnet. It gives a wide range of benefits. Greater sensivity and greater cabinet stability among some.
I would not recommend using a wedge between the magents. It's important that the magnets are fitted tight together to get the full benefits of the design. It's a much better idea to drill or cut a suitable hole(s) in the dust cap instead if the drivers have pole vents, and a non-permeable dustcap. Please note however that some drivers have both pole vents and holes in the voice coil former, and in that case you should just let the VC former holes vent all the compression behind the dustcap. |
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#13 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
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#14 | |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#15 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
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I don't understand this need to support/couple facing magnets together. Air is made by the cone's excursion and I was thinking that the magnets moved along with the cone, so you can't have them touching anything. Obviously I'm wrong...so how's this work?
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#16 | |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
But the momentum of the cone causes and equal & opposite momentum in the driver basket/magnet. By having 2 drivers in intimate contact, but pushing in opposite directions the momentums of the basket/magnets of the 2 drivers cancel. In a single woofer system this momentum is transfered to the box, which all too often you can hear, and in the case of a sub it can exhibit as woofer-walk (ie the woofer starts moving around). By actively cancelling this you dramatically reduce the energy passed to the box (making it sound better) and further increase the downward dynamic range. dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#17 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
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Magnetic shielding won't be an issue, as nothing needs to be shielded. Sensitivity sin't a problem either for me; two pairs of 18" pro drivers. Muuhahahaha! At current design, I'm going to build the box push-push and will experiment with push-pull later to see if I can hear any difference. |
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#18 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
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This front and back firing as I suppose this solution will be, does it have any implications as to positioning the box in the room? That is, distance to back wall etc.
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#19 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
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I see now. That makes sense too. Thanks for the explanation Planet10. So either have the box's internal width be exact to have both magnets touching each other, and if that's not possible, then wedge a piece of wood between them eh?
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#20 | |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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