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Old 23rd August 2007, 11:30 PM   #1
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Default My HT Sub Build

I thought I had posted this project here back at the beginning, but I suppose not. Project is a sub for my 5.1 system. Originally was using a TC9-based driver, but the specs were off for ht use, so eventually I found a new TC-sounds OEM 12 driver for sale on a forum, and I found a buyer for my sub to fund it. The oem is quite the sexy woofer. I love an exposed coil myself, as well as the plain paper cone.

The box is an overly braced, double-walled, triple flush mounted baffle. Downfiring, with a single 4" aero port, ported around 21hz. Somewhere around 4 cubic feet. The box was designed by Chris at Elemental Designs.

The corners are rounded over with a 1" radius, and the wholet hing will be wrapped in woodgrain melamine (I was worried about veneer cracking on the corners). The top and bottom will be covered in black countertop laminate. Power will come from a Buttkicker, but I may switch to a plate amp eventually based on the output/sound quality it has with the Buttkicker.

I can't really think of anything else, so onto the pics:

Original driver (tc9):

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New driver (TC oem 12):

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Design:

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Construction:

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And the finishing material (original roll with cracks):

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Old 24th August 2007, 06:55 PM   #2
kinser is offline kinser  Israel
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that looks really nice mate! im waiting for my 12" TC 2000 DVC to arrive (some time next week). going sealed@ 1.4 - 2 cubic feet box, using 30mm MDF ... with 2x ZapPulse 2.23SE on 80vdc+/-. aiming for 700 wattes per voice coil at full power (peaks).
i was thinking of bracing corner to corner going down the length of the box ( like an X) using 2 peices slotted into each other like yours.
if you have any tips or suggestions, they are more than welcome!

The exposed voice coil of the 12OEM sure is sexy! and that motor is massive!! whats the Bl factor on that? like 29 or something?

Btw what are you using to power that beast of a sub?
David Resnik
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Old 24th August 2007, 07:09 PM   #3
badman is offline badman  United States
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If I understand you right, you're not accomplishing much with the X bracing scheme. You're reinforcing the corners, and leaving 4 of the panels resonant, which is the opposite of what you need to do.
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Old 24th August 2007, 07:14 PM   #4
kinser is offline kinser  Israel
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yeah, now that you've mentiond it, it makes sense to me.. what about bracing it in a + going down the length of the box, that way all panels are braced down through the middle line, that way all panels are braced, sids, top bottem, back and the part of the front.

do you understand what im thinking of?

David Resnik
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Old 26th August 2007, 01:15 AM   #5
Daveis is offline Daveis  United States
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Let's say you are using 1" thick board... route opposing 1/2" deep holes on interior sides spaced say 5" apart. Then use 1" dowel on all axis. You'd have to work out a pattern such that the dowels could criss-cross each other on all 3-axis.

This would be a pain by hand, but maybe a CNC router could put the circular dowel recesses.
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Old 3rd September 2007, 10:45 PM   #6
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So this weekend allowed me some time to work... but setbacks basically killed any progress. Had to drum-sand about 1/4 off of the mounting hole just to get the new driver to fit. Then after numerous attempts, I determined there was no way to use the t-nuts that were already glued into the baffle... So I knocked them out and decided to add some 2"x2" plywood blocks so I can just use regular screws. I'm not about to go through this whole build just to have a t-nut get knocked down into the box at the last minute.... while it's finished sitting in my apartment.

Click the image to open in full size.

Buuut... while testing said t-nuts I determined that the oem would officially look badass inverted...

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I got lucky with the mounting depth too. Any opinions on whether or not the pole vent is ok with the piece right behind it?

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Old 3rd September 2007, 11:37 PM   #7
badman is offline badman  United States
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I think you're okay on clearance on that pole vent. Nice build btw. You should wedge some shims between that brace and the back of the magnet (leaving the vent unobstructed as much as possible) to further improve the stiffness of the enclosure.
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Old 4th September 2007, 12:03 AM   #8
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kinser, a senior member registered to '69. How did you do that?
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Old 4th September 2007, 04:33 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally posted by kinser
that way all panels are braced down through the middle line
Worst place for a brace is exactly in the middle.

dave
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Old 4th September 2007, 06:02 AM   #10
kinser is offline kinser  Israel
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MJL21193, database problems on the forum about a year back. im only 17 years old, could not have registered in '69 lol..

planet10, could you give me an idea of bracing that will actually brace? i see evry one has two peices, on going down the lenght and the other from side to side, my idea is to go down along the panles,without bracing side to side.

when i have a chance today ill post up a scetch...

Thanks,
David Resnik
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