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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: High Wycombe, Bucks, UK
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I've started up a project to make a pair of subs based on the Audio Drive 12-300SB 12" driver (a modified Eminence LAB12, used by BK Electronics in their Monolith sub).
It's going to run each drive in independant enclosures, of a compact size as possible (room size is a big restriction currently), sealed with an off-board power amp. I currently have a Behringer BFD for room EQ, though am also likely to use a Linkwitz Transform circuit to bring up the bottom end. I've started a thread over on the AVTalk forum, but will post on here too. AVTalk Thread The one issue I have encountered so far is that when I input the speaker parameters into WinISD Pro it disagrees with the Cms info. Listed as 0.35mm/N by Audio Drive, but WinISD gives me 0.1977mm/N. Specs: Impedance: 4ohms Power: 300W SPL 1W/1M: 86dB Fs: 23.5hz Re: 3.7ohms Le: 1.30 mH Qms: 2.73 Qes: 0.416 Qts: 0.361 Vas: 61.6 Litres Mms: 232g Cms: 0.35mm/N BL: 17.46 T/M Sd: 468.7 cm2 Xmax: +/-7.5mm I don't have any easy way of measuring the info myself.
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Richard Wilson |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: High Wycombe, Bucks, UK
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A few design images, for those who like that sort of thing; like me!
My old RTP-15 sub and the correctly scaled new design (one of). ![]() The pair next to each other. The pair stacked, for use in my current small room.
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Richard Wilson |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: High Wycombe, Bucks, UK
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On checking with BK it would appear that the 0.35mm/N is a data entry error and the 0.1977mm/N should be used.
Many thanks to Baz for being prompt with his reply.
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Richard Wilson |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: UK
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2 sealed will be nice, I look forward to the results.
These really do gain from porting, dual Monolith anyone? 5.5-6.5 cubes tuned to 20hz would be fantastic! |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2007
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I would also use a vented box.
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Houston, we have a problem! |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: High Wycombe, Bucks, UK
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If I had the room to house them I'd probably go down the ported route.
As it is I'm currently sorting out small deatils, connectors etc to use, and getting a cost to have the cabinet parts cut properly. If I did them myself it would probbaly cost just as much, and also ages of time, to get the spare materials and tooling. Should be fun. I'm needing to do some cabinet finish tests soon.
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Richard Wilson |
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#7 |
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Did it Himself
diyAudio Member
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My only concern with side firing the drivers is that the cabinets may 'walk'. Otherwise looks like a nice project. I can put you in touch with a company that can cut and router the panels if you want.
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www.readresearch.co.uk my website for UK diy audio people - designs, PCBs, kits and more |
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: UK
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Quote:
Some tips! If they do move then a square or cross of velcrow will stop this on carpet. If on wood or slippy surface like tile then rubber strips or weather stripping or some cured silicone sealed ridges will stop it. There always a solution. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: High Wycombe, Bucks, UK
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The cabinet will have decent feet of some sort to ensure they stay put. The current surface they have to contend with is carpet, and it is likely to stay that way when I move house, so pobably some good spikes for now.
I've not had any issues with walking cabinets on sub projects, as they're pretty heavy, well braced enclosures, normally ending up on spikes for the carpet. The upper of the 2 when stacked with gain some 'rubber feet', not sure exactly what yet. richie00boy, if you could email me the company/contact that would be much appreciated.
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Richard Wilson |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: High Wycombe, Bucks, UK
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Richard Wilson |
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