Need help with 1st horn sub design

[footstony]

Hi everyone,

some more hornresp modelling.

I made the mouth bigger, throat smaller and horn longer. Xmax is much lower.

Regards Philip

[footstony]

next pic

not sure how you guys got your pics into the message

[footstony]

Xmax

[djk]

Your excursion is at 2.83V (2W/4R).

Tough building a T=.5 (Catenoid) that is tri-hedral, let me know how you make it through the door.

My design is a simple conical horn, easy to build. It will fit through a 30" doorway, and does not need corner placement.

[Marzen]

Thanks guys for all the useful feedback. I think I have enough examples & ideas to get rolling on my own when I take the kids to the indoor water park for the weekend.
Some things I should clarify I suppose:
1) I can assemble it in the basement, when I mentioned my door I was thinking much larger pieces like a 30 foot pipe I saw online.
2) I'd already resigned myself to corner loading the mouth.
3) I have 2 large ported (4cu/ft) and 2 sealed (2cu/ft) subs down here currently with BFD 1124-P's using a house curve, and I'm still chasing that 'kick in the chest' response I get at my pal's house. He has a much smaller room at around 15x12 with a single SVS sub.
Is a single large sub the answer or should I continue with building smaller ones? Note: I don't have much of a problem with modal nulls in the listening area.
4) Yes I realize PB was correct, but there's a polite way to do everything - don't d*ck slap me & then leave w/o proving your point.
Cheers,
Ward

[DrDyna]

I have a pair of passive subs with 10" woofers built into a triangular cabinet, which fits into the corner of the room. They are made so that the walls are an extension of the cabinet, essentially turning the corners of the room into a horn.

Perhaps you could try a design like that?

I'm able to get down to around 24 Hz with this design.

[DrDyna]

Here is a picture of one of the subs I mentioned.