Integrate sub into HiFi cabinet? Am I nuts?

Sonusthree · 26th May 2007, 12:04 AM

Well, It's time for me to bite the bullet and add a sub to my system. It's purely a music system that already reaches down to about 45Hz so I'd like the sub to operate below 100Hz and down to 20Hz but not necessarily at any great volumes. I just want a little extra!! I can EQ at line level to suit my needs.

I'm having trouble finding a suitable location for a sub since I'm quite keen for it to be a centrally located stereo unit. I will be using a two channel amp anyway.

My idea would be to integrate the sub into the bottom half of a very solid, well built pine cabinet. The top half would house my HiFi equipment!!

This idea goes against my purist attitude to vibration but could this work if both drivers are effectively cancelling out any potential cabinet movement?

The bottom half of the cabinet has a wooden door and the top half (for the equipment) has a glass door.

If this seems viable to you guys then I would strengthen the enclosure by creating an inner enclosure from MDF. Decoupling may even be possible between these two layers but I'm inexperienced at building subs and need advice. If I glue the MDF inner directly to the outer part then it would be stronger.

Am I crazy? Could it work? Is this the best way to keep the WAF?

P.S. I will post a photo of the actual cabinet tomorrow.

Sonusthree · 26th May 2007, 01:36 AM

Sorry, Just to be clear, the cabinet is one that I already have and not one that I will be building especially for the job!

bastek · 26th May 2007, 05:38 AM

No, you' re not crazy. you are no nuts either. As long as you don't have any turntable or cd-dvd player in that cabinet, you'll be fine.

Sonusthree · 26th May 2007, 08:42 AM

Hi Bastek, I was planning to have the CD player in the cabinet.

Won't the opposing forces cancel the vibrations?

richie00boy · 26th May 2007, 09:18 AM

They will cancel tendencies for the cabinet to move one way, but the issue is that the chamber is being pressurised and de-pressurised, so that's where the vibration will come from.

Sonusthree · 26th May 2007, 10:30 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by richie00boy
They will cancel tendencies for the cabinet to move one way, but the issue is that the chamber is being pressurised and de-pressurised, so that's where the vibration will come from.

This plan is never going to be ideal but ....

If I can super strengthen the walls and incorporate some decoupling then it might be worth a punt? I think that the cabinet has ample volume to line with 25mm MDF and lots of bracing to minimise the problem of pressurisation.

I could also add some dynamat or similar between the MDF and the cabinet. Hopefully this would allow the inner to flex slightly without passing on too much vibration.

I'm just thinking out load really.

richie00boy · 26th May 2007, 11:28 AM

Yes that should all do it IMO.

Sonusthree · 26th May 2007, 01:32 PM

Thank you Richie and Bastek.

I got the cabinet for ten pounds from Ebay and found it to be too tall too site in the bay window without obstructing the view. I was intending to cut the bottom off and just use the top half but if I can use it for a sub as well ....

I won't be losing out much if it doesn't work out.

It will be interesting to see what happens with this. All of my equipment is well decoupled with Sorbathane so this will help. Actually, This cabinet is already very heavy and with all the heavy kit inside it's going to be very weighty indeed.

Thanks again,
Martin

aceinc · 26th May 2007, 02:18 PM

Martin:

Not 100% analagous but I implemented a WAF Limited sub using existing cabinets.

I actually did the two types of cabinets differently. The smaller ones I built the box with the cut outs, and put the completed box into the cabinets. With the larger cabinet I cut the pieces and glued them individually in the box. I believe that building the box completely and putting it into the cabinet was the better approach.

Regarding isolation, bracing the drivers against each other may help. In other words fabricate a bracket out of either metal or a hard wood that will wedge between the magnet structures so that they are directly coupled. Don't block an vents.

Paul

TerryC · 26th May 2007, 06:26 PM

I've thought of doing a similar thing with a massive cabinet in our main living room, but haven't convinced myself that I would be happy with the results. However, in your situtation, since you aren't totally comitted to the cabinet, I would cut it in half as you've said, mount the upper half to the hall, and use a conventional sub sitting on the floor below. Good luck regardless.

26th May 2007, 09:18 AM	#5
richie00boy Did it Himself diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Gloucestershire, England, UK	They will cancel tendencies for the cabinet to move one way, but the issue is that the chamber is being pressurised and de-pressurised, so that's where the vibration will come from. __________________ www.readresearch.co.uk my website for UK diy audio people - designs, PCBs, kits and more

26th May 2007, 11:28 AM	#7
richie00boy Did it Himself diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Gloucestershire, England, UK	Yes that should all do it IMO. __________________ www.readresearch.co.uk my website for UK diy audio people - designs, PCBs, kits and more

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26th May 2007, 01:36 AM	#2
Sonusthree diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Brighton,UK	Sorry, Just to be clear, the cabinet is one that I already have and not one that I will be building especially for the job!

26th May 2007, 05:38 AM	#3
bastek diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: NY	No, you' re not crazy. you are no nuts either. As long as you don't have any turntable or cd-dvd player in that cabinet, you'll be fine.

26th May 2007, 08:42 AM	#4
Sonusthree diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Brighton,UK	Hi Bastek, I was planning to have the CD player in the cabinet. Won't the opposing forces cancel the vibrations?

26th May 2007, 01:32 PM	#8
Sonusthree diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Brighton,UK	Thank you Richie and Bastek. I got the cabinet for ten pounds from Ebay and found it to be too tall too site in the bay window without obstructing the view. I was intending to cut the bottom off and just use the top half but if I can use it for a sub as well .... I won't be losing out much if it doesn't work out. It will be interesting to see what happens with this. All of my equipment is well decoupled with Sorbathane so this will help. Actually, This cabinet is already very heavy and with all the heavy kit inside it's going to be very weighty indeed. Thanks again, Martin

26th May 2007, 02:18 PM	#9
aceinc diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2007	Martin: Not 100% analagous but I implemented a WAF Limited sub using existing cabinets. I actually did the two types of cabinets differently. The smaller ones I built the box with the cut outs, and put the completed box into the cabinets. With the larger cabinet I cut the pieces and glued them individually in the box. I believe that building the box completely and putting it into the cabinet was the better approach. Regarding isolation, bracing the drivers against each other may help. In other words fabricate a bracket out of either metal or a hard wood that will wedge between the magnet structures so that they are directly coupled. Don't block an vents. Paul

26th May 2007, 06:26 PM	#10
TerryC diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: WA-USA	I've thought of doing a similar thing with a massive cabinet in our main living room, but haven't convinced myself that I would be happy with the results. However, in your situtation, since you aren't totally comitted to the cabinet, I would cut it in half as you've said, mount the upper half to the hall, and use a conventional sub sitting on the floor below. Good luck regardless.

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